Search results

https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars/CIVIC/2004/TYPE-R/UPHOLSTERY/FRONT-GRILLE-2-/17S5S01/B__4501/5/10349

Aye, done my EP3 headlights last year and they came up like new using the Autoglym kit. Need to polish them again as they are starting to yellow again though.

Since returning to work after being furloughed and not being able to car share i have had to take my EP3. For the first month i thought i would try and see what sort of MPG i could achieve by driving at around 60mph for the 38 mile trip both ways which was around 80% on dual carriageways. I did...

Deleted and moved to the relevant section i hope!

Have you tried to sand and buff them? I did my Facelift one's last year as the UV layer was disintegrating and looking patchy/cloudy. They came up a treat tbh. I used the Autoglym kit from Halfords with the drill attachment.

I replaced one of my O2 sensors with an NGK one a couple of years ago and it is still working fine.

Only Euro EP3's (outside UK) came with factory headlight washers and HID's.

indeed the USA Civic Si EP3 shape was only released in pre-facelift guise but the lamps fit facelift foglight brackets. I may not have been too clear in my post above. I was able to source used brackets but no lamps. I had to resort to ordering ones like i posted as the OEM kit is like trying...

This is more like the kit i bought for my CTR. The fog light lenses fitted to CTR fog light brackets and loom fitted as well. The loom is in two parts. If your loom is in one part then it may be easier to just snip the cables here and re-connect them inside the car. Have you looked to see...

if i remember correctly (it was around 10 years ago!) i connected to the brown plug and fuse box inside the car under the dash/centre console and then to the brown plug that is located to the right side of the battery on my RHD CTR. I have just checked and there is no loom going through the...

I did connect the brown plug under the centre console. It has a blue/brown wire going to it. It is the brown plug on the right hand side in the picture below.

I bought a kit from the USA and it fitted my RHD CTR with no problems. So i would have thought a RHD fog light loom would fit a LHD CTR as well tbh as you are just flipping the loom to come out the other side of the car. It was probably 10 years ago i fitted it but there was a plug for the...

OEM will be the best you can get but they will be hard to find. I have used both Heko and Climairs on my EP3. The Climairs are around double the price of the Heko one's but they are miles better for fitment. I would expect the FN2 to be about the same experience tbh.

I have used Fuch's Titan Pro S 5w-40 many times in the first 3-4 years of owning my EP3. Never had an issue. Never had an issue using cheaper oil like Shell Helix 5w-40 in the last 7-8 years either tbh. As Chris above said, save your money and not waste it on over expensive oil. Pretty much...

If they snap off leaving the thread of the bolt still in i would just drill them out of the clips as you said you were replacing the clips anyway.

There are 4 bolts to take off on each corner of the seat rails. There will be plastic covers on the back two rails. pop them off to get to the bolts. Just slide the seat forward to get to the back 2 and slide it back to get to the front 2. I think they are all 17mm and should take you about...

I have done over 15 oil changes in my EP3 and i have always put the full 5 litres in. Never done any damage. The manual does state 4.7l but with a filter change as well i have put the full 5l in and it registered on the max level of the dipstick.

This is how i got the bolts off of the IACV. Worked a treat.

Is it the standard 4-1 EP3 manifold or a DC5 4-2-1 manifold you replaced the decat with? I had to fit an O2 spacer when i fitted the DC5 manifold as the EML would come on due to the better flowing cat on the DC5. Never seen it again since i fitted the O2 spacer after the Cat.

Top mounts would be my assumption.

So after 2 days of surgery my EP3 passed its MOT today! The car needs fumigated now as the welding has stunk it out big time. Hopefully it dies down in the next couple of days. At least i can take my time to find a suitable replacement in the next year and not rush into getting the first thing...

This could possibly be the route i go down with regards to finding a cleaner chassis and transferring stuff over from the one i have. I will have to research the costs involved and see if it's worth it in the long run i suppose. This EP3 has been near faultless in the 10+ years i have owned it...

I am from Fife mate. It is at the garage today to see if they can patch it up. The floor is pretty thin at bits tbh now so i am not sure if it's worth the bother undersealing it fully now, i think it may be too far gone . I will see what the garage says after today. If they can patch it for a...

Took the EP3 in for its MOT today and it has failed due to rust on the underside. I had some welding done last year on the passenger side for its mot but it has spread massively on the underside of the car so i now need the driver's side and the floorpan between the front and rear seats. It...

I just removed the two front bolts and slackened off the two rears to drop down the subframe at the front with the sump supported with a jack and a piece of wood to replace the front engine mount on my EP3.

5L @ 5w40 will do the job. I personally have been using Shell Helix Ultra 5w 40 for years in my EP3 and the FN2 engine is quite similar to mine. Has done the job and i hardly have to top up in between my 6000 mile or 12 month changes tbh. It's around £23 for 5l on eBay...

The handbrake lever part that connects to the cable on the passenger caliper has not released. See if you can put some pressure on the lever on the caliper and it should release. Did you pump the brake pedal several times with the cables disengaged from both calipers or the handbrake handle in...

My money would be that the handbrake part on the rear caliper is sticking and not the cable itself. Had it happen on my last set of rear calipers. With the handbrake off the lever part on the caliper does not return thus keeping pressure on the rear pad. I got away with cleaning the spring on...

The clutch and brake pedals have rubber covers and the accelerator pedal is just plastic from the factory on an EP3. The clutch and brake Mugen pedals are attached with two allen headed bolts that clamp the pedal covers on. The Mugen Accelerator plate is usually screwed on to the plastic OEM...

Not sure mate. As the shocks are brand new i would be surprised if it is them but i was led to believe that the one's i bought were nearly new and they were knocking badly. Did you replace the top mounts when doing the shocks and springs?

From what i have read aftermarket cats can be a bit hit or miss. Cheapish one's do not seem to last and good one's are almost the cost of the car. I replaced mine for a low mileage DC5 cat last year after the flange (at the catback end) disintegrated on my EP3 cat. The fit is really good...

Thermostat could be faulty then. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Could be as simple as an air lock in the coolant system since you had the radiator replaced recently?

I always thought the Pro Kit (Black) was 20/15mm and the Sportline (Red) kit was 30/30mm.

Yes. Direct from honda for the bushes and bolts or there are the poly bushes available for the standard rear arb on eBay. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

It's an easy job to do yourself. Takes about 30mins.

The Meyle HD one's i fitted are different on the O/S and N/S and both have different part numbers. There is no way you can fit either on the wrong side without them being incredibly stretched out of alignment. I have used the plastic stud ones before and one of them popped out of the droplink...

I also do 90% of the work on my EP3 myself and i think i have only had a couple of small 10mm bolt heads shearing in the 11 and a half years working on it. Rounding off bolt heads due to rust is the main problem i have had recently. Not sure on the best makes of impact drivers but milwaukee get...

I removed mine last year due to refreshing my steering rack slider and inner/outer track rods. It was a bit rusty at either end but there were no holes in it due to rust so i just gave it a scrub with a wire brush and a coat of paint on either end then put it back on. The heatshield is also...

I do believe the Eibach logo should be readable on the front and rear springs. I had the same issue on my Eibach ProKit ones and after searching, the logos were meant to be readable and not upside down even though the coils of the springs didn't look that way but as they are progressive springs...

This wee thing looks fantastic imho. At 95% complete i think Honda may be on to a winner here. Just wish the range was closer to 200 miles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfD67KCFxqI

So the top part of the strut (under the bonnet) with the nut on it is moving freely? Are the 3 nuts on the strut tower and the single nut on the strut tight? If they are then the top mounts must have some serious ware on them to allow the strut to move as the mounts are the only thing that...

Loxy is your man to ask on here as i think he had the same alloys for a winter set on his FK2.

Lucas LLB286 12V 1.2W Capless. I just checked the box they came in so i am sure they are the one's i used when i last replaced the bulbs behind the clocks on my EP3. . You just need to pull the burnt old bulbs out of their holders. Look like this when installed

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-LLB286-12V-1-2W-Panel-Light-Indicator-Bulb-Genuine-Pack-of-10/322939185343?hash=item4b30ace8bf:g:JisAAOSw-FRb3F7i:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true

Usually 1L of oil from min to max on the dipstick on a K20.

European EP3's did come with HID's and headlight washers from the factory. I have seen pictures of EP3's from Sweden that have them from the factory. The UK one's did not come with them. Just see if you can get the washers to work and then the HId's will be 100% legal to use.

I think you just need to change one plug for them to work. Can probably splice the wires and put a couple of spade connectors on for the different plug. I haven't done it to my Facelift but if i remember correctly they are a direct fitment apart form one plug/connector.

Was this your FD2 at around 2.40? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oLbWbJEWrYI

Job done. The handle now returns back to its position without me have to push it back. I couldn't fully remove the part with the rear badge on it as the square nut on the outside was rusted and kept on spinning, i couldn't get anything in to grip it. I got one of the bolts and clips from one...

Cheers for the reply. I may have some of those ones if they are the same as the clips used to hold the plastic hatch trim, i had to buy some of them after breaking a couple when i removed the trim to flush out the rear wiper lines and motor a couple of months ago.

Going to give this a bash today. What clips do you think will break. Is it any in this pic?

Can anyone tell me how to access the rear boot release handle. It has been stiff for a while now on my EP3. This happened before and i gave the area a good spray of WD40 which loosened it off for a while but it has returned with a vengeance and no matter how much i spray the area it will no...

While working on my EP3 today i noticed the splash guard/dust shield behind the front brake disc is rusted quite badly and is about to come loose. Am i right in saying that to replace these it's a hub out job? If that's the case can you run without them?

So after putting it off until i returned form my holiday abroad i finally got around to replacing the steering rack slider and inner and outer track rods on my EP3 today. I decided to do them leaving the rack on the car which i regretted when it came to bending the locking washers from the...

Not the greatest photo as my Galaxy S7 is poor in dark shots but here is my EP3 clocks. Not quite as bad as in your photo but there is a noticeable difference in both sides of the KM/H. It could be because the bulb is directly behind the KM/H top end side and not on the lower end side.

Same here with the clocks. Replaced all of the bulbs about a year ago thinking it would sort out the dim parts of the km/h but all it did was brighten up the bits already lit due to the old bulbs being slightly burnt on their tips.

A nice wee tip i seen on YouTube for splitting the ball joint from the knuckle instead of using a pickle fork or ball joint splitter is to jack up the front end, put axle stands under the front subframe then jack up the wishbone until you lift the car up from the axle stand (this increases the...

My facelift EP3 passed without question last month with HID's fitted. It may be because the facelift has projector lenses.

Seen a few riced out FD's while in the states the last couple of weeks and i really do like the look of this shaped Civic in the flesh. I think i have seen one whilst driving up here in Scotland. They do seem to go for good money still over here but i still want one.

I assume it purpose is to clip into the plastic cover in the footwell.

I have used them when doing oil changes on my EP3 for 10 years. Don't know if they make a difference but i just stuck with them tbh.

I wouldn't be changing the GBox oil after only 7000miles. Give it another 50,000 miles at least before another change. I think the service interval for GBox oil is 75,000 miles.

Have you clocked your car? Miles usually go up not down.

Shouldn't be a problem tbh. Fujitsubo exhausts are very well made and are a perfect fit on the EP3, my Fujitsubo Legalis R fits perfect. I think the Fuji catback comes with the gaskets and bolts needed to fit apart from the 3 nuts that go to the Cat so you might want to order them before you...

Oxy/Acetylene torch on the bolts would be my bet. My OEM B-Pipe had to have the original bolts torched off as they were rusted pretty bad.

As Chris said any garage can do it. Its only 5 bolts and 3 rubber hangers fixing the catback to the car. Shouldn't take any more than an hours labour for a catback change.

I did consider them mate but the Sachs one's i fitted (Which were the correct one's for my car) threw the geo out massively to a point where i couldn't safely drive the car. I don't know what the **** was going on with them so i didn't want to take another chance on a non OEM brand shock. From...

Unfortunately I bought them from a member on here years ago. They were meant to have only done a few thousand miles. Buy cheap buy twice eh. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

replaced my front shocks for new OEM one's today and no more knocking. Thank **** for that! £275 out of my wallet but had to be done tbh. Now for the MOT tomorrow and i am ******** it!

It appears that the Sachs shocks i fitted are *****. Looks like a hefty bill getting two OEM ones from Honda:mad:

Every chance your car can fail it's MOT having HID's fitted without self leveling headlamps and headlight washers. New restrictions came in this May clamping down on them.

That does look to be quite short a length compared to mine. The wires just have enough room to stretch out to get the plug out of the hole on mine. Wouldn't hurt to pop the other one out and see if it gives you some slack tbh. If it doesn't then i would be trying to get a hold of the plug...

Yes. The manifold is a great fit tbh. I don't get all of the moaning about it being a poor fit on the EP3.

The fronts are equal but the rear drivers side has always been lower than the rear passenger side.

Small bumps/speedbumps. Anything under 30mph.

Rear mount is fine (No splits), Drivers side is fine (No splits),Gearbox one has an insert in it so shouldn't be that that is knocking, Front was changed a while a go (albeit a couple of years ago). Will give the front one another check it is a pain in the arse to get out though.

I have had quite a bad sounding knock from the front passengers side of my EP3 and i cannot for the life of me find out where it is coming from. My Ep3 is almost at 110,000 so over the last week i have set about freshening up the front end while i fitted a DC5 Exhaust Manifold as the flange...

The last time i renewed my rear calipers i fitted them then bled them with the pistons no more than 1mm away from the discs. I then pumped the brakes about 10-15 times. Slackened off the handbrake adjuster fully and attached the handbrake cables to the calipers. Fitted both rear wheels and...

The Autoglym screen wash is the best i have used . Streak free and doesn't smell too bad but it ain't cheap compared to the Halfords or ECP Triple Q stuff i have used.

Have a check of the springs on the rear calipers. Take a pair of pliers and take them off to give them a good scrub with a wire brush and douse them in WD40. Mine tend to get gunked up and seem to stop the tension on the handbrake lever on the caliper from releasing. I have had a couple of...

Seen an FK8 for the first time in the wild today. They are growing on me.

https://hondakarma.com/guides/replacing-the-steering-rack-slider-with-the-rack-in-the-car.1859/

I have been looking into refreshing my rack also over the last week. I was also going to go for the meyle inner and outer tie rods and replace the OEM Honda slider. Looks to be a pain to do on the car so I will be remove g it from the car. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

The Spoon 4-2 fits with the DC5 manifold. You do need to use engine mount inserts or stiffer engine mounts to use the Spoon one though as you can crack the welds using standard mounts from what i have seen.

Not 100% sure but you may have to swap over the fusebox under the steering wheel. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

That's the one i use. It has been most helpful for me. I did have one on a cd that was different but i have misplaced it. It was more in depth and looked to be the one Honda used themselves.

I am looking to replace a front wishbone rear bush on a 2008 1.4l civic. I have had a quick look at it and it is totally different from most civic wishbone bushes in that it looks like it slides off of the end of the wishbone. What i don't know is if the bush has to be pressed out and a new...

Yeh sure. Just PM me your email.

I have a PDF workshop manual for my EP3 but i was wondering if there is one for the next gen Civic? My sister has a 2008 Civic and it is needing some work done to it so i am on the lookout for one for her car to see if i can do the jobs myself to save her some money.

I don't really fancy spending £190 on new headlights if i can correct the ones i have myself for around £30 mate. I am a bit Simply Red at the moment. (Monies too tight to mention!)

My headlights on my EP3 have started to get oxidized so i am looking to try and bring them back to life. I am intending on getting the Autoglym headlight restoration kit which seems to work well but what should i use to protect them from the UV rays since i will have removed the protective...

Could be either a vaccum leak or the iacv as you said. Maybe put the other intake on and see if it still does it. Cleaning the iacv is an easy job to do. I had to do it last year when my engine was hunting. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

You will need a fascia adapter for either single or double din headunits mate. A single din will fit but it leaves some gaps and doesn't look the best.

I don't think so because i cannot get the rocker cover back off. If i snapped the bolt it would have come off with the rocker cover i would have thought. That's whats got me thinking the threads on the nut have stripped

All done. They were just about all within spec (intake 0.08-0.10)(exhaust 0.10-0.11) but I adjusted them all to be at the bottom range of the spec. Took longer than I expected and I am covered in oil with a few cuts and scrapes but its done (Well sort of). I think I have stripped one of the...

I am going to be attempting checking and adjusting my Valve Clearances today on my K20A2 EP3 as i am on 110,000miles. I am right in saying the intake should be between 0.08-0.10 and exhaust 0.10-0.11 and the firing order of the engine is 1-3-4-2?

Fair enough. It's just that i have seen people using it before but wasn't sure. It seems after a bit more looking that NGK advise not to use it as it can lead to over tightening of the plugs leading them to break in some cases so i will not bother.

Will it do any harm to apply some copper grease/slip onto the threads of the spark plugs of an EP3? I am thinking not but not 100% sure if it will do any harm. The last ones I done were a bit tight getting them off and I will be replacing them very soon. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk