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I went for OEM shocks, got them from Tegiwa as they were cheaper than Honday. ( my Right hand side shock had a leak at 50k miles ) . I do a fair amount of trackdays so I use the kerbs a bit so that prob didn't help things. Glad the car is holding up for ya buddy.

I'm on EBC yellowStuff on the rears and there ok. Done one trackday with them and there about half worn.

The facelift headlights will line up without an issue. They mount exactly the same . You just need to adapt the wiring to suit.

Due to lack of stock. It's the classic supply and demand. Also, as the FK8 is now out of production then the prices will prob rise a bit more .

Gutted for you both but at least your ok and it's the trackcar rather than the daily. I bloody hate standing water ! .. Hope you get it all sorted soon pal. Shame the red flag did not come out sooner.

You should be able to get away with an Excedy standard clutch. ( that's what I used, I'm approx 245bhp ) and works well on track. Otherwise got for a Stage 1 Excedy.

Rich at Performance autoworks will see you right buddy. I've got Combe booked for 10th Sept directly with them. I'm hoping to get out on track before then but it's looking unlikely atm. Let me know if you plan on booking anymore dates Chris, and see if we an link up etc. Would be good to catch...

Deffo worth getting GAP insurance. Piece of mind . The rest I would not bother.

You would be better taking a train up there and use the drive back to get used to the car. That way you can at least inspect the car before signing it off and will prob be more fun that way. Just keep an eye on the speedo.

I also went from an EP3 to an FK8. There great cars. Echo what is said above. I got the dealer to rebferb my alloys and they kept the red stripe. Check for gearbox lockout 3rd to 4th and 5th to 4th. Also might be worth checking the rear lights for condensation as this was an issue on early cars...

Reviewers prob have not been in a car with coilovers on .. That's a whole new level of sniffness . Everything else seems "softer" after that . LOL

Great mini review Matt. I think the improvments are tweeks to an already great car. Brake pedal travel has been improved by 15% according to Honda so should be sharper. Let us know how you get on with the LogR app as I know some guys in the USA say car needs to be up to temp before they start...

It looks better in the flesh but i'm still not a fan. ( personal choice )

I saw my first boost blue one this morning going towards Barnet.

I do find it strange that it only seems to be FK8's that have this problem and, as far as i'm aware not the FK2's and there reportedly the sames boxes.

Not much needed except, roll cage, electrical cut off , fire Ext etc . A plated diff is a great addition though.

Simon, you plan on racing it or just tracking it ?

Matt , The facelifed GT model now available to order at the dealers and estimated delivery dates from 21st Sept . The Sportline CTR is also available to order but deliveries fot that model are Due in Jan 2021. HTH

Glad it's going to be coming back on the road again. Nice to have the old gang back on the road. I can vouch that Lottie and Si are both great people so you don't have to fear getting parts from them. Hope you are both well and must catch up when this pandemic calms down a bit.

Good vid that buddy.

Less than half a turn out can make a huge difference as you probably know. Unless you take off the track rod ends then there is no real way of knowing. Glad you had it sorted though. Things like that can be a pain.

That is just crazy pricing. I've only ever been on track once while I had the FK8 briefly and nothing overheated but tbh I was not pushing as it was a wet day and first time out in the car so was taking it rather easy. Overheating seems to be an issue in USA more than UK so maybe it's related...

Driving a banging Shitron C1 ... needs must atm !

Helo Lee, Long time no see / hear. Hope you are doing well buddy and enjoying your new drive.

Driven the golf and it's a great car but just a bit to boring for me . Don't get me wrong, it does everything just fine but there is just no sense of occasion for me with it. I can look back at the FK8 after parking and it makes me smile. I daily drove my FK8 ( about 30 miles a day ) and...

As a note of caution for everyone it's worth also checking that the insurance company you choose has a policy that if your car gets stolen and not recovered it's not classified as a "fault claim" . ( As It happened to me recently ). My insurance company was Markerstudy.

I have 18" alloys and they were fine. Does not diversely affect the handling. And tyres are a LOT cheaper on that size as well which is a bonus. Deffo recommend them as a cheaper option. JUst make sure there at least an ET45 profile otherwise they will rub on the arches a bit.

Personally I think it was nicked to order and shipped off somewhere in a container as , like you said, it's not really parts car I reckon. Really liked the car, glad I got a trackday out of it before it left. Goes quite well for an "out of the box" production car. Not sure if I will get...

Yep that was my car. Sorry for the delay in posting but I forgot my password and been a bit busy as you can imagine what with the house being burgled and car being stolen. Just an update : The car has so far ( as of 7th April 2020 ) not been recovered or spotted since the night it went...

Hondas on track no longer active . There are a couple of us who do trackday together. We currently are doing Spa on 21-22nd March.

As Loxy says, you need to plug it into a ODB2 reader and read the codes as the engine managment light covers about 200 different things so could be anything.

Might be worth getting the engine coolant changed as well if it's been sitting there since 2015 as it degrades over time and with track use the car gets a little warmer than normal. I had the engine managment light on for coolant once as I did not change coolant for two years and was ragging it...

Echo what is said above., they don't like being stood still. Just go out for a 20+ min drive and it normally sorts itself out.

Good feedback there Mark. I was wondering what it's like to live with on a day to day basis. Have you done any trackdays in it yet?

They had them in stock when I ordered them last year.

I got mine from ABP motorsport , but Stevie@Grinspeed also do them I believe.

You can buy just the rotors ( The disc / ring ) . There about £400 a pair . Also a good idea to replace the hat bolts as well while your at it. Not essential but seeing as they have gone through so many heat cyles it might be worth it for peace of mind . ( That's what I did )

I've not tried the PBS ones but I'm VERY happy with the CL RC6e's ,,, there by far the best pad I've used and does not kill the discs either.

Your going to love the Stoptech's Sam. By far one of the best purchases I've brought. Get yourself some DS2500's or if you can streach to it some CL RC6e's as there bloody amazing ,, almost put you through the windscreen !

Talk to ABP Motorsport as there one of the offical resellers in the UK and there decent prices. There number , Telephone: 01270 567 177

I've had 'Endless' 6 pots before and they were ok but the pad wear rate was crazy. I switched to the Stoptech BBK in June 2012 and I must say it's THE best choice I've made bar none. The brakes are fantastic, the wear rate is much better as there floating discs and the pads are a decent...

New vid up from Spa in April on my Youtube channel with new bumper camera. Will be adding more over the weekend.

Cool, I saw you subscribed, not updated my page for ages ( as you can prob tell, some of the videos are even on VHS-c !!) I'm hoping to upload some of my newer ones soon once I get some time to edit stuff. I'm using the Hauge one here ...

I use the the rear headrests on mine .. see here for some of my vids. https://www.youtube.com/user/jasonsinternet/videos I used to use a suction mount as well until they were frownd apon my the trackday organisers. I've also used the camera below the front bumper for Spa this year back in...

I think You would need a professional system Like a Snap-on reader that a garage has to reed these codes.

Yes it's still going , all the events for this year are listed in 'Hot Events' here : http://www.hondas-on-track.com/forums/index.php?board=3.0 You need to login to see them.

The 2 you have listed are different. One is 5w30 and the other is 5w40 so there different spec. There both good oils though.

I'm runnig an EP3 as a weekend car / track car and got a little Honda Jazz for everything else. Best move i've made by far as insurance is cheap and running costs are minimal.

Mine is a Spoon baffled sump that I got from Spoon directly. See here : http://www.spoonsports.eu/spoon-products/honda-civic-ep3/11200-dc5-001.html , otherwise the clockwise motion baffled sump is very good as it is a proper baffled sump with gates etc and would recommend that one. Deffo worth...

Been doing trackdays for the last 10 years in my EP3 CTR's . Baffled sump is a must if you intend on tracking it alot and running semi slicks. Also, worth checking your oil level each session ( after you have left engine to cool for a couple of mins ) and you should be fine.

Yep, I'll be up for next year as I've missed it this year ( first time I've missed it in over 10 years ! ).

Wendy, there are several 'packs' available . There is a cabon pack for the inside and one for the outside as well as a Rally Red pack which adds red mirrors , red grill and lots of other bits to it as well as a red inside pack which adds red to bottom of steering wheel and red air vents et ...

Deffo sounds like release baring then.

When you buy a clutch kit you get the release baring with it . By what you describe it sounds like the clutch realse baring and clutch plate itself has had it. Given your mileage that's very good if it's on its first clutch.

If your installing wheel spacers on the EP3 then you will need to roll the arches on a lowered car.

Press are being introduced to it next week. 1st-2nd June. So expect reviews soon after.

Opie oils , there doing a special atm. I've just got some. Was delivered this morning. see here : http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68976-shell-helix-ultra-5w-40-fully-synthetic-engine-oil-recommended-by-ferrari.aspx

Yes that oil is fine and Opie oils are doing a special on it atm where you get an extra litre free. see here : http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68976-shell-helix-ultra-5w-40-fully-synthetic-engine-oil-recommended-by-ferrari.aspx

Do the dash lights still come on ? Sounds like an imobilizer issue to me.

The new CTR may have lower running costs so maybe justify itself that way. You think the Megane thing is about that price as well. I know what you mean though as £30+ for a FWD is a little pricy.

Sounds like you have got air in the system. Bleed the whole system to be on the safe side. Also, as said above check for leaks.

There ok for road use but what I do is just stick them in for trackdays and run around on cheaper pads as race pads generally wear a little quicker when there cold and not up to temp . ( that's what I've found in my personal expericence anyhow ).

Got my pads from here : http://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/pad-compounds-explained.html

Your gonig to love those pads. They are by far the best I've used. Enjoy your trackday. Where you going for it ?

Hi Lewis. I got the stoptech BBK and there available in black ( like mine ). Well worth the money. Done lots of trackdays with them and there fantastic. pic of it here : http://s517.photobucket.com/user/jasonevans74/media/STopIMAG1470.jpg.html?sort=3&o=30

Well they will be ok for a SHORT 'spirited' drive and general day to day but I would not use them on track. Up to you. The DS2500pads are a little agressive for those type of budget discs. You may also find that the DS2500's wear a bit more in winter as they don't like the cold that much.

The lower the car the more crashy it will feel as the shocks won't have enough travel to react. I'd stick with the spoon springs.

If there the EuroCarParts pagid discs then I would not bother as they tend to warp a little under hard driving when they heat up. Stick with OEM or Bremtec are very good also. Used Bremtec for daily driving and on circuit use and cannot fault them.

You don't strictly need a facia adaptor but there will be a tiny gap ( nothing to worry about though. ). I've not got one on mine.

You might be better off with 5.1 fluid as it has a higher boiling point.

I got my secondary sensor from Mat Lewis motorsport. It's the NGK one that Honda use as mine went about a year ago. Stuck this one in and been fine ever since . see here ...

It normally tells you the code and description. See vid at 1:16 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l3MgICGMuDw

If your talking about OBD readers then I use this one on my EP3 and it works well. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-CAR-OBD2-EOBD-CAN-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner-diagnostic-scan-tool-D900-/141198861199?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20e01ba38f

Good stuff. Having a mapped car makes so much difference when coming out of a corner, just so much more useable. I'd do coilovers first if I were you , that way you can carry a bit more speed through corners and it's more settled. Then stick some brakes on it. That's what I done . I word of...

More importantly , does it sounds any better ?

Yes done this on mine, it's a little awkward on the drivers side as the reserve bottle gets in the way but you can navigate round that and then rest is pretty much stright forward. I also removed the wheel arch protectors as well raither than drilling them as it allows more air to circulate...

Just done mine at the weekend and it took 5 litres.

A little high but just keep an eye on it and make sure your not losing any. As I said before, each engine is slightly differernt.

Geo would be my first , fast road setup for sure.

Different engines require a little more . My first CTR required exactly 4.7 litres and my newer one is just under 5. Even though it's basically the same engine. I don't know why. Prob just manufactoring tolorances. You sure you've done up the sump plug ok ?

Could be the clutch release baring needs replacing as it's not disengauging correctly. Might be better taking it to a specialist to have a look at.

That's within tollarance so should be OK.

There will be no error code stored for an immobiler fault, only a flashing green key light on the dash. As Loxy said, get it recovered to Honda as they have the correct machine to recode the key.

Have you changed anything since this has started happening ? something like a new Radio, shortshift, RBC Manifold intake or something like that ? If so, check the connections as it sounds like there is a short somewhere.

You could try doing an ecu learn because you disconnected the battery it's prob still trying to learn the parameters again . ECM ldle Learn Procedure The idle learn procedure must be done so the ECM can learn the engine idle characteristics. Do the idle learn procedurew henevery ou do any of...

Sorry Buddy only just seen this , just got an email notification now saying there's a reply to the thread .. opps Email sent.

Yep, still got the grey CTR & doing trackdays both here and in Europe. Going strong still dispite the abuse it takes from me daily ! Must meet up for a coffee sometime.

Blimey, I thought you sold it ? Good to see your still around. Mines over 100k now and still going strong . Have a look on the Lings site for prices buddy. see below : http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_block_selection_C30.php?mod_01=9511

Yes its under the rear seat. You may also need some clip connectors things as they are designed to break when you take them off. Normally you don't change the fuel filter until 100k though tbh. Sent from my HUAWEI Y300-0100 using Tapatalk

Another way of telling is that you will be able to rev car to redline when in nutral and the vtec point should be lower.

You need 4.7 litres for an oil change ( inc filter ) so get 5 litres.

Just the cool down lap to lower the temps of the brake pads and discs etc so there will be less likely to have pickup on discs and also should stop them smoking or sticking etc when you come in. The last thing you want to do is stand on the brakes then come into the pits and you could...

Personally I would selll your Tarox and get the Stoptech BBK. I've been using them on track for the last 2 years ( approx 14 trackdays ) and they have taken the abuse no problem. They are a very balanced solution. Was out at Donington park for 45 min endurance and they held up very well , no...

You will prob need to alter the brake bais as you may end up INCREASING the braking distance due to the heavy weight distribution on the front brakes therefore the rears may come up and be less effective. I have expereiced this when I upgraded to six pot Endless calipers , back end was all over...

By far the best way to go faster is to get some driver training and more trackdays under your belt . It's amazing the amount of difference it makes, there's always something to learn when training / instructed .

Standard CTR wheels with 215/45/17's. Used all sorts of semi slick on track. Used Yoko A048's then Fedral RSR-s followed by Toyo 888's. By far the A048's are the best I've used, then I found the RSR's were very close in grip level to Toyo 888's but half the price so I'm currenly on RSR's as...

You have got TDI North which is not far down the road in Warrington. Very good garage , Honda specialist . http://www.tdi-north.com/

I think your code should be P1000 and not D , as 'D' does not exist with ODB as far as I know See here : http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

Lings Honda do it . See link below : http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S5T501&block_02=E__0310&block_03=9814

I've got a Tein type flex manual which I think is monflex. ( near enough the same ) Give me your email addy and I'll send it over to you.