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ep3 pwer gain wanted please advise

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32
hi there, i have a completely standard ep3 that i would like to get more power out of, what can i do to acheive around the 220 horsepower mark thanks for your time
 
Mate all the information you need is on the forum have a good look around. The search bar is your friend.;)
The way I'd go about achieving 220bhp plus would be-:

Induction (Gruppe m or AEM CAI), decent catback exhaust, Race header (de-cat), then Hondata KPRO or K100 and mapping.

Quite a broad question and no doubt people will have different opinions on what is best way. How much money do you want to throw at it?
Best advise I can give you is do your research.:D
 
if you are after 220bhp and over then you will need :-

cold air induction filter (gruppe m, itg maxogen, aem cai ect)
catback exhaust (spoon, fujitsubo, mugen ect)
manifold (toda, spoon, dc sports)
ecu (kpro or k100)

have a search on the forum mate there is loads of info to help you

you can put the exhaust, manifold and cai on the car but they wont add much bhp unless you kpro the ecu. it is pricey but it is suposed to give better mpg and will get the best power out of the mods you put on the car. it also allow you to lower the vtec point if you like.

before you start to think of adding more bhp to the wheels i would suggest looking into getting the car to drive better and faster on the road by getting the suspension tweaked.
 
I think this is a random question for new comers. It is always depending on how much do you want to spend.
 
I tuned my EP3 on two seperate occasions.

The first one with a Gruppe 'M - K100 - DC5 4-2 manifold - Spoon 2-1 De cat - Spoon B pipe - OEM Back box.

This gave me 217bhp.

To put a price on this I would say you are looking at £1,500+ taking into how much stuff is going for now with the exchange rate.

I paid roughly this about 2 years ago.

Gruppe 'M - £320
K100 and RR map - £700
JDM front ARB - £50
DC5 4-2 mani - £100
Spoon 2-1 de cat - £160
Spoon B pipe - £200

Second stage gave me 240bhp.

Gruppe 'M - K100 - TODA Race Header - Fujitsubo RM01A.

Build up thread is here, its all in there.

http://www.type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=53585
 
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Just a quick question on what Suits' mods, would his CTR pass an emissions test after doing all that?
Just wondering because I fancied getting a bit more go juice out of my beast, but don't want the hassle of changing things over to OEM to get it through MOT's etc. Also to get that kind of BHP do you have to change the OEM twin exhaust, because I kinda like the look of it.
 
Only a race header with a race cat built in or the DC5 4-2 and 2-1 with cat section will pass a MOT. Otherwise you will have to put a Spoon header (4-2, into a 2-1) on and change the 2-1 part for the cat section or change an entire race manifold (4-1) over.

If you're running an aftermarket manifold, then it's pretty essential that you run the JDM anti roll bar (to stop the manifold from knocking) and an uprated front engine mount or torque damper (to minimise flex which damages aftermarket header).
 
hmm your probably going to have to spend close to the £2000 mark to get 220+bhp which to me seems like a waste of money. N\A engines are notoriously difficult to get more power out of. especially the K20A2 as its producing nearly 100bhp per litre already! my personal opinion has always been... leave it as it is its an awesome car straight out of the box. if its high numbers on a dyno print out your looking for then you should have just saved the extra money and bought an mitsubishi evo, subaru impreza etc :)
 
hmm your probably going to have to spend close to the £2000 mark to get 220+bhp which to me seems like a waste of money. N\A engines are notoriously difficult to get more power out of. especially the K20A2 as its producing nearly 100bhp per litre already! my personal opinion has always been... leave it as it is its an awesome car straight out of the box. if its high numbers on a dyno print out your looking for then you should have just saved the extra money and bought an mitsubishi evo, subaru impreza etc :)

Wise words to a certain degree, but you're preaching, potentially, to the wrong crowd here.

Yes, £2000 is about right for what I got (240bhp). Throw that at a AWD boosted car and you will get a lot more power. But I don't have a AWD boosted car. I wanted a CTR.

Add to that the FRSU and the strut braces and the EP3 becomes a totally different experience, but in the same car. Much sharper, focused and eager.

It's not about high numbers on dyno's, that's easy to achieve. It's about increasing the useable power. The remap brings in the power alot earlier and I had massive amounts of torque at 6'000rpm. It was never an aim to increase max power, its just a benefit of increasing the breathing capabilities of the K20.

What I'm saying is that its not a waste of money like you say, far from it, you get good results from it. You do get more for your money from AWD turbo's cars (power wise) but thats not the be all and end all of driving experience.
 
Only a race header with a race cat built in or the DC5 4-2 and 2-1 with cat section will pass a MOT. Otherwise you will have to put a Spoon header (4-2, into a 2-1) on and change the 2-1 part for the cat section or change an entire race manifold (4-1) over.

If you're running an aftermarket manifold, then it's pretty essential that you run the JDM anti roll bar (to stop the manifold from knocking) and an uprated front engine mount or torque damper (to minimise flex which damages aftermarket header).

In most cases yes, but cars with a decat have been known to pass MOT. Mine did on two separate occasions, MOT done through my Honda main dealer... Of course I would not recommend the risk :D
 
Before more power JDM ARB and FRSU. Play to the strengths of the car and make them even better. Then the power will get used more efficently
 
Wise words to a certain degree, but you're preaching, potentially, to the wrong crowd here.

Yes, £2000 is about right for what I got (240bhp). Throw that at a AWD boosted car and you will get a lot more power. But I don't have a AWD boosted car. I wanted a CTR.

Add to that the FRSU and the strut braces and the EP3 becomes a totally different experience, but in the same car. Much sharper, focused and eager.

It's not about high numbers on dyno's, that's easy to achieve. It's about increasing the useable power. The remap brings in the power alot earlier and I had massive amounts of torque at 6'000rpm. It was never an aim to increase max power, its just a benefit of increasing the breathing capabilities of the K20.

What I'm saying is that its not a waste of money like you say, far from it, you get good results from it. You do get more for your money from AWD turbo's cars (power wise) but thats not the be all and end all of driving experience.
I totaly agree with whats been said there i currently have mani de-cat catback CAI waiting for k100 but i dont sit there thinking ive wasted money, i dont do it to get massive figures, it makes the car act a different way and even though my car isnt mapped i can tell its different to standard, i also have FRSU and coilovers, in all my CTR is more fun to drive than it was as standard which i found hard to imagine as its amazing as standard !!
 
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