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Hazz's 1971 mental Mini Clubman - JDM B18CR engine

Yeah I get size and weight must be big points to consider for this build.

The turbo plan sounds good, I've never heard of a remote mounted turbo before. But can't see why it wouldn't work, obvious minor downsides you've listed apart.

Dare I ask for an estimated budget for the rebuild and install?

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I’ve seen a few with the turbo sticking out the front grille but I think it looks retarded personally.

Yea remote mounting is fairly new to me too but it’s been around for donkeys years. Seems to be popular with yanks.

I’m going to estimate around 4K all in. It depends on the condition of the block really. And little things like if it already has arp head studs etc. All adds up. I reckon the turbo will add between £800-£1500 depending on how fancy I go for the turbo. Hell, I could even stick a 2nd hand one on and do it for £300.
 
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I had a Metro Turbo lump in my old Mini. The turbo went where the glovebox would normally be. You basically cut the bulkhead/firewall and build a box into it. The turbo then sat in there.


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I had a Metro Turbo lump in my old Mini. The turbo went where the glovebox would normally be. You basically cut the bulkhead/firewall and build a box into it. The turbo then sat in there.


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That's where my ECU lives :lol: plus the B is a fair bit larger than an A.

There's no room in there for a turbo at the front end. None. Nada.

Plus have you heard a remote mount without a backbox? Oh my days.

Edit: I’m not the only person to have this idea: [video=youtube_share;SBXC9xmsLjQ]https://youtu.be/SBXC9xmsLjQ[/video]
 
What sort of power would you hope for? And what is it currently?

That one sounded nice, bet it would be an absolute animal with even more torque and horsies going on. Do it, do it now!

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I’d get a turbo capable of around 400bhp and hope to get 300-350 out of it. Currently it’s running 214bhp.

Plan for the summer is to get to a few shows and a couple track days. Iron out the suspension set up, get it corner weighted and do what I can with additional roll bars and maybe some fancy bottom arms. We’ll see how things go.

I had my saudi visa revoked so money is going to be... well, it’s not growing on trees anymore.
 
It's popular with Yanks because it's an easy bodge that your average redneck can knock together cheap to get bigger numbers for burnouts and going fast in a straight line. :lol: At least on a Mini it won't be *that* far away, so the hot side will still be fairly hot and moving well.

I looked at a big Merc that someone had remote turbo'd and despite their profuse claims (probably because they were trying to drum up business for the kits) it was a pile of fetid dogsh*t. Massive lag because there was half a mile of pipework from engine and turbo, compounded by needing something that wouldn't look out of place on an HGV to make up for the hot (well, by now luke warm) side inefficiency.

Would a rotrex or similar fit? Bit of an increase in cash though. How far out the grille would a turbo come - my brain is thinking hollowed out spotlight to hide it?

Another option would be boot mounted radiator (with some ducting work and electric fans) leaving enough space for the blower in the bay.
 
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It's popular with Yanks because it's an easy bodge that your average redneck can knock together cheap to get bigger numbers for burnouts and going fast in a straight line. :lol: At least on a Mini it won't be *that* far away, so the hot side will still be fairly hot and moving well.

I looked at a big Merc that someone had remote turbo'd and despite their profuse claims (probably because they were trying to drum up business for the kits) it was a pile of fetid dogsh*t. Massive lag because there was half a mile of pipework from engine and turbo, compounded by needing something that wouldn't look out of place on an HGV to make up for the hot (well, by now luke warm) side inefficiency.

Would a rotrex or similar fit? Bit of an increase in cash though. How far out the grille would a turbo come - my brain is thinking hollowed out spotlight to hide it?

Another option would be boot mounted radiator (with some ducting work and electric fans) leaving enough space for the blower in the bay.

Trouble with the b series is that the intake is on the bulkhead side. The turbos usually stick out 60-80% and look ridiculous.

And you’re spot on with redneck bodge. Suits this car down to the ground :lol:
 
Looking over some pictures last night, I see what you mean - it's a long way out and you can't hide that.

Boot mounted rad then - you'll get a decent size core in there for some proper cooling too.
 
Considering the car's weight, do you need more power that the turbo gives?
 
It still wouldn't fit with the rad out of the way. My rad is quite literally in contact with the gearbox and there's about 1mm room to the front end when it's down.

I'm sure it's possible to do better than some of the ones I've seen online sticking out a foot from the front. It'll still stick out and look sh1t though.

I'm going to do more research on turbo sizing and pipe bore sizing for remote turbos. I know it's not the optimal set up but who cares, this car isn't the optimal set up :lol:
 
Considering the car's weight, do you need more power that the turbo gives?


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:lol: I'm just wondering if you're going to be able to get the power down, the torque is going to build up a lot faster than an NA engine and you're not exactly spoilt for choice for grippy tyres.
 
Aye you're not wrong there. I'm going for the new road legal track day Nankangs next :picardfp:

So annoying Yoko took the road legal rating thing off from the AD048 at 13". It's left next to no tyre choices. My current yoko A539's are utter dogsh1t.

I can boost by gear with the S300 so I'll run something like 0PSI, no vtec in 1st. 0-3psi in 2nd, 6-7 in 3rd and 10-12 in 4th and 5th.
 
Took it out at the weekend for a blast, so much fun :lol:

The oil leak is getting worse though, crank or oil pump seal I think. So I've ordered £258's worth of stuff from Tegiwa. Crank seal was £21 and oil pump seal £3. However, it's a cambelt off job so I've also bought a cambelt kit, cam locking tool, crank pulley tool & a new OEM waterpump.

I'm going to give it a crack myself when I get a spare weekend. If it all goes t1ts up I'll get it over to Stevie to sort.
 
Well my friend and I did the cam belt and water pump on his mk1 eunos a few weeks back and it went wrong - Ie we lost the cam timing when our cam-fixing bodge failed. We managed to get it timed back in and it’s running sweet... so either it was total blind luck or i half know what I’m doing :lol:
 
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