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M.O.T failed today.

S

Satin EP3

Messages
24
I had my first M.O.T on my Civic, but unfortunately it failed on these things.

* Exhaust emmisions lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits.

* Nearside rear brake pipe excessively corroded.

* Offside rear brake pipe excessively corroded

I could come back for a free retest for these things, has anyone any ideas what these could be? Or could I do it by my self?

My Advisory items were:

* EPS light on - which is weird as when I had my car back, turned the ignition on EPS,ABS etc. lights went on and as soon as I start the engine, after 3 seconds all went off which I think is normal. That's why I'm confused.

* Slight play on both front top mounts.

Anyone got ideas? Be gentle, this is my first Honda so I'm a little newbie!

Any help would be gratefuly appreciated.
 
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Do you have a cat? Is it standard? You may need to warm the car up to pass emissions test.

Sounds like a good excuse to fit braided brake lines as well.
 
Corroded brake pipes means the hard lines, not the flexible hoses (unless the MoT tester is being a muppet)
 
Satin EP3 said:
* Exhaust emmisions lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits.
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As suggested above really

Satin EP3 said:
* Nearside rear brake pipe excessively corroded.
* Offside rear brake pipe excessively corroded
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These will need replacing, and the brake lines bled again

Satin EP3 said:
* EPS light on - which is weird as when I had my car back, turned the ignition on EPS,ABS etc. lights went on and as soon as I start the engine, after 3 seconds all went off which I think is normal. That's why I'm confused.
Click to expand...
As long as its going off, I wouldn't worry. It's only an advisory so doesn't need to be fixed for it to pass the mot

Satin EP3 said:
* Slight play on both front top mounts.
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These will need replacing, but again it was only an advisory so not required yet but plan to et it done before the next mot.
 
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Shaenei said:
As suggested above really


These will need replacing, and the brake lines bled again


As long as its going off, I wouldn't worry. It's only an advisory so doesn't need to be fixed for it to pass the mot


These will need replacing, but again it was only an advisory so not required yet but plan to et it done before the next mot.
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My next M.O.T is going to be next year do you think I could still use my top mounts? As I'm saving up for a decent coilies after Christmas hopefully.

The M.O.T guy was asking 20 quid for cleaning the corroded brake lines. Do you think it's worth it? Or just change it with upgraded ones?

Thanks for the help lads.
 
Satin EP3 said:
The M.O.T guy was asking 20 quid for cleaning the corroded brake lines. Do you think it's worth it? Or just change it with upgraded ones?
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there is a difference between corroded and dirty, simply cleaning them should not make them safe! Do you know and trust the guy doing the MOT?
 
rubber brake lines don't corrode as such, they degrade. To test your brake lines you need an assistant.... Engine running, turn your wheel full lock, now put your fingers on the hose and ask your assistant to pump the brake pedal, if you feel the line bulge they are degraded and need replacing.
 
Hazz said:
rubber brake lines don't corrode as such, they degrade. To test your brake lines you need an assistant.... Engine running, turn your wheel full lock, now put your fingers on the hose and ask your assistant to pump the brake pedal, if you feel the line bulge they are degraded and need replacing.
Click to expand...

They've qouted rear brake lines, How do I check the rear ones?

Cheers for the help lads.
 
Same test I think mate, it's just a little more awkward for access as you can't turn the wheels obviously.... I suppose you could jack it up and take a wheel off, probably not necessary though.
 
The tester sounds like he's trying to have you on. As already suggested, take it elsewhere.
 
EPS is simply a case of they have left it running with no movement of the steering for long enough (think it is 10 minutes but might even be 20) that the system thinks there is a fault. As said car off and back on turns the light out as does moving the steering i think.
 
I agree with al_typeR on the steering, as soon as you stat moving again it switches back on. As for lambda is it too high or too low? If reading to high possible air leak in exhaust where it's taking in extra oxygen. If not blowing make sure when you book your car in for next test you give it some stick before turning up as you want exhaust hot as possible.
 
Took the car to a different tester.

Slight play in both front top mounts, that's it.

That guy was ripping me off
 
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