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Tucker's Cosmic EP3

No I'm not sure about the gasket and donuts yet I'm just collecting at the moment too. Will be getting the JDM arb too as mine has some rust so may as well.

Was looking at an M2 inlet manifold myself but have mixed feelings. Great price for what is basically a S2 but would prefer an RBC. Obviously there's a price difference and some fettling to the slam panel though. Then I would need to remap which I don't have the funds for so may just stick with OEM


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I have a cpl flashed k100, to spread the cost a bit. So I'm half way there. M2 seems to get better results than the rbc, with less adaptors and modding the slam panel. That's why I went for it. Only downside is coolant leaks from the blanked outlets, but i'll seal or braze the plugged one somehow to avoid any leaks in the future.

I'll try and remember to post the part numbers or what's needed when I get round to it. I've got a few snapped studs to remove yet, then I'll probs take the heatshield off and wrap it like you have.

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Another part now ticked off the list, got myself a JDM Front ARB & some Polybush Front ARB Bushes. I've read mixed reviews on whether it's needed to accommodate the DC5 Manifold & Cat.



Next should be the M2 Resonated Centre Section! I'll also need to sort out which gaskets and donuts are needed for this set up and then I should be good to go.
 
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Nice! Was also considering upgrading my front arb now I've done the rear, interesting to hear if you find any noticeable improvement!


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I'm pretty sure the jdm is the same diameter bar, only difference is shape to allow exhaust fitment differences? In which case no actual functional difference to be felt.

I'm still hoping dc5 can be fitted without jdm roll bar, or my shopping list will be bigger!

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Norv is right it's different shape to allow the figment of aftermarket exhaust manifolds. For me to fit my Mugen manifold to UKDM ep3 need the front JDM ARB as the manifold was build and designed for the JDM ep3.

If you also upgrade the rear ARB to the JDM one you will notice a difference as the UKDM one is 19mm JDM 22mm :)
 
Marshall-EP3 said:
Nice! Was also considering upgrading my front arb now I've done the rear, interesting to hear if you find any noticeable improvement!


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As Norv & Scottish have already said the Front JDM ARB is the same thickness as on the UK car so shouldn't be any noticeable improvements to handling. As it's shaped differently to allow fitment of aftermarket manifolds it should help me fit the DC5 manifold without any issues.

jdmjack said:
Where did you get the dc5 pedals from mate? It's something i want to do.
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Hi mate, I picked up my DC5 pedals from eBay. Just had a quick look and there's some on there at the moment - Link

You could always try a breakers or I'm sure there's a Integra DC5 Owners Forum that will have a 'For Sale' section.
 
Progress has been pretty slow recently but I decided to paint my Rear Lower tie Bar to match the Rocker Cover using the same VHT Anodised Red paint.





Got some Hammerite Underbody Seal to cover the areas I exposed when originally fitting the Tie Bar. Will be using plenty of this as I work my way around the car.



Happy with how it turned out and suits the car much better than the White did.





I'll treat her to the JDM Rear ARB with new Bushes and Drop Links once I've got the exhaust on.
 
Winter has arrived and the cold weather finished off my battery! I ordered myself an OEM Honda battery as a replacement.



Now fitted and I'm back on the move.
 
A couple of lights were out on the centre console, one for the rear heated window button and another for the fan speed/temperature dials.



Decided that I may as well change the others too while I had everything apart so got 2 of each.



All back together and working now, looking much brighter.



One of my fog lights has also stopped working so I'll be getting some Philips H11 bulbs as they should be better quality than the Ultras that I fitted before.
 
Had a bit of a noisy belt on cold startups recently so decided to replace as it's a quick job and purchased a Gates Aux Belt (with AC).



The old belt definitely looked well worn and due for renewal.



New belt went on without any trouble at all and looks so much fresher than the old.



The auto-tensioner indicator is within the standard range.



Noise gone! ;)
 
Had plenty of foggy weather recently and I've only had the one fog light working so got the Philips H11's and went for the DiamondVision ones. It's a lot of effort having to remove the front bumper to change a bulb, especially when you've already done it once before!



New vs Old. You can see that the Ultra bulb had blown, not sure what would have caused this after such a short space of time as I rarely have the fogs on. I'm hoping it's down to quality and that the Philips will last until the day I sell her on.



Obviously I changed the pair and have kept the working Ultra bulb as a spare just in case.



I have had the windows steam up a lot lately, which is understandable at this time of year, but with the rear window in particular there is a lot of moisture on the inside. I do have a damp smell in the boot but can't feel any damp on the carpet in there so I'm not sure where it's coming from.
 
Great car mate, just read all 16 pages and love the attention to detail! Hopefully i'll pick up a CTR (The next month or two) that's had a similar amount of care to yours! :D
 
Cheers Ben. It's still a long way off some of the well kept examples on here but appreciate the kind comment.

Good luck with the search for a CTR, you won't be disappointed!
 
I had an older (pre-facelift/51 reg) that had water in the boot. Common causes are foam behind the rear lights (cheap fix), boot seal (less cheap, but a lot less common), not latching closed properly (unscrew the two big screws on the catch and move it forward a little), or (as was the case for me) the plastic seal over the weld at the back of the boot (that yellowy paint stuff at the back edge of the wheel well), I had to sand it back and repaint/seal the damn thing... so annoying.

Loving what you've done so far, that strut brace is nice, clean line, out of the way.
 
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Thanks Mike, I think I'll start with the common and "cheaper" option which is the seal but even they are around £20 a piece! Hopefully that sorts it, I could do without sanding back and painting like you did.

I'm happy with the strut, it's exactly what I was looking for. Just need to get a move on with the rest of it now!


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I just went back and checked the prices. about 18mo ago I got them for £12.50 each, the price at Tegiwa is now £16.50... awesome work government! :)

Definitely try to keep that wheel well area dry, the raised retainer (with the nut welded in) had rusted in mine because of the standing water. Don't forget to keep a look-out under there if it's been wet down there in the past.

Out of interest with the accessory belt, did you also buy a tool to relax the tensioner to get the thing on there, or did you approach it another way?
 
No special tool needed at all, it is a very simple job to do. I just put a 14mm ring spanner on the tensioner bolt and then a 1/2" breaker bar in the open end of the spanner. Then just pull breaker bar down towards the front bumper to release the tension from the belt and it should come away from pulleys easily. Make sure you get the correct belt depending on whether you have AC or not and take pictures/draw a diagram of the route of the belt before you remove.
 
Got myself 2 Genuine Honda Rear Light Seal Gaskets, these can deteriorate over time causing water ingress in the boot area. I haven't actually found any water or damp at all but there is always a damp/musky smell and the windows steam up pretty badly.



The old seals didn't actually look in bad nick so I'm not sure whether they are cause of the problem but continued to replace them anyway.





One of the bolts holding the rear bumper in place sheered off when removing it! Drilled it out and found a M6 bolt and a couple of washers which fitted once I'd cut it down to size. Bit of a bodge but it does the job and is hidden beneath the cap so nobody will ever know (apart from you guys).





MOT time soon and there's 1 more job I need to tackle before she's ready. Part(s) in transit so hopefully I'll have another update soon.
 
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