• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

Car cleaning

Got a Dodo Juice polisher but forever struggle when it comes to red cars. Not a professional by any means

What sort of pads and polishes do you have? Red, especially Hondas Red should be easy to tackle. It's very soft paint so should be fairly simply to see results quickly. Are you looking to rectify the swirls with the products etc you already have or looking to purchase something new?
 
What sort of pads and polishes do you have? Red, especially Hondas Red should be easy to tackle. It's very soft paint so should be fairly simply to see results quickly. Are you looking to rectify the swirls with the products etc you already have or looking to purchase something new?

Something new. Got some poor boys stuff but just don't find it works well however got scratches and swirls out of my BMW fine lol. Any suggestions. Got pads
 
Depends how handy you are are with your DA, and whether you have the relevant pads. But my personal advice would be to purchase something like Autofinesse' Tripple, all in one polish. Minimal effort and maximum results.
 
This is not true! Most glazes are the perfect base to apply a wax or sealant. They usually have cleansing properties in them meaning the paint is not only reduced in defects, but also "cleaner".

I'm a big fan and promoter of Glazes in general. People all to often feel they have to keep polishing their cars to keep them looking their best. When in reality your paint/clear coat can only really take so much polishing. Glazing is far safer, albeit less aggressive than a polish, so tends to mask swirls aposed to removing them.

As long as the paintwork is protected following a glaze, using a decent wax or sealant, the paintwork should remain as you've just left it for many months

A glaze is by no means an ideal base to apply a sealant or wax. Properly corrected and prepped bare paint is key to the longevity of your chosen paint protection. Glazes are nothing more than a quick fix, amateurs tool or a last resort due to insufficient clear coat to correct fully and as such, are a stop gap to a respray. All dependent on how flawless you want your paintwork.
A decent brush for alloys, getting between the split spokes on the EP3's wheels otherwise is an exercise in frustration.

Wheel woolies. However, they're expensive. Try a touchless quality wheel cleaner every few washes like Bilt Hamber Autowheels and see how you get on. Very rarely you need to agitate.

What's recommended for Milano Red. Swirl crazy lol
Technique beats product and equipment 27/7/365.
Something new. Got some poor boys stuff but just don't find it works well however got scratches and swirls out of my BMW fine lol. Any suggestions. Got pads
Which BMW? If you could correct BMW paint, and not Milano Red, you may be looking at a respray.
 
A glaze is by no means an ideal base to apply a sealant or wax. Properly corrected and prepped bare paint is key to the longevity of your chosen paint protection. Glazes are nothing more than a quick fix, amateurs tool or a last resort due to insufficient clear coat to correct fully and as such, are a stop gap to a respray. All dependent on how flawless you want your paintwork.


Wheel woolies. However, they're expensive. Try a touchless quality wheel cleaner every few washes like Bilt Hamber Autowheels and see how you get on. Very rarely you need to agitate.


Technique beats product and equipment 27/7/365.

Which BMW? If you could correct BMW paint, and not Milano Red, you may be looking at a respray.

It was Le Mans blue and tbh I probably didn't notice the defects as much. Car definitely doesn't need a respirator just a little more time and effort perhaps
 
A glaze is by no means an ideal base to apply a sealant or wax. Properly corrected and prepped bare paint is key to the longevity of your chosen paint protection. Glazes are nothing more than a quick fix, amateurs tool or a last resort due to insufficient clear coat to correct fully and as such, are a stop gap to a respray

Do you honestly believe this crap you have just written?

Are you just going to be another promoter of "regular polishing", even though in due course your clear coat will be non existent.

If you don't have a PDG (paint depth gauge) then you are potentially playing with fire. If you're not confident with a machine polisher, whether it be a rotary or even a DA, you will cause more damage than good.
By using a Glaze, it's far safer, albeit not a permanent fix, but you can re-Glaze throughout the year, whilst also creating a great base for your wax and/or sealant. Granted for a Pro-Detailer then correction is key! But for hobbiests/enthusiasts then trying to workout the correct compound pad combo can be rather daunting
 
Do you honestly believe this crap you have just written?

Are you just going to be another promoter of "regular polishing", even though in due course your clear coat will be non existent.

If you don't have a PDG (paint depth gauge) then you are potentially playing with fire. If you're not confident with a machine polisher, whether it be a rotary or even a DA, you will cause more damage than good.
By using a Glaze, it's far safer, albeit not a permanent fix, but you can re-Glaze throughout the year, whilst also creating a great base for your wax and/or sealant. Granted for a Pro-Detailer then correction is key! But for hobbiests/enthusiasts then trying to workout the correct compound pad combo can be rather daunting

The crap I've posted? Says the gobshite saying a glaze is a great base for a wax.
 
0ed26e1d857090da437dfbd2c9fabf9a.jpg
 
Paint correction is the the best solution. But only if your paint allows for it. If the micron level is to low for paint correction then either a respray or a temporary fix like a glaze is ideal.

Wax's and sealants work best on a clean surface. You can lock a glaze in but it will no doubt have durability affects on the wax or sealant.
 
Wax's and sealants work best on a clean surface. You can lock a glaze in but it will no doubt have durability affects on the wax or sealant.

That's what I said back on 2nd July.

You explained it better though

Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk
 
Not necessarily all, but a lot of Glazes have cleaning/cleansing properties so the paintwork is "clean" to enable your protection to bond properly. Granted, a Glaze will "mask" apposed to correct, but in a lot of amateur cases, this is sufficient.
 
I like it also but find it tends to dull the paint more than a real shine. Great all in one product.

Can't beat a good machine polish and a layer of wax or sealant.
 
I like it also but find it tends to dull the paint more than a real shine. Great all in one product.

Can't beat a good machine polish and a layer of wax or sealant.
Agreed. So happy with the finish after machining my car a couple of months back. Just got to try and keep my wash method safe. Bloody car gets swirls just looking at it!

Out of interest what LSP are people using over the winter to protect their cars?

I'm thinking of using Fusso Dark and topping up with BSD. Not used either before.

Sent from my F3311 using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top