• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

Clunk after replacing Camber Arms Rear

Azazl187

Azazl187

Messages
1,067
Hi Peeps,

Ive just replaced my adjustable camber arms with a new set and now when i turn to the right and the weight is lifted up on the drivers side rear wheel i can hear a clunk coming from the suspension that side on the rear. If i then go over a bump in the road after that i hear another clunk as if whatever it was settled back down again. This only started happening after fitting the new camber arms but i didnt notice it immediately, its as if it happened a few days after.

The camber was more positive for a week or so until i had time to set it this weekend and i am wondering if this change in suspension has killed the drivers side drop link off at the rear.

This weekend i jacked the car back up and removed the wheel to make sure everything was tight and done up as it should be, i even gave everything an extra quarter turn to make sure. All the bushes looked fine and nothing was loose.

Any ideas?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
How much of a clunk?

If you have two jacks (or a jack and axle stand) try supporting the side that clunks, then (with the wheel off) jack up the lower arm slowly and see if the drop-link shifts against the sway bar or lower arm.

If it's a clunk from higher up it could be the hat at the top of the suspension, but that's much less common.
 
mike.h said:
How much of a clunk?

If you have two jacks (or a jack and axle stand) try supporting the side that clunks, then (with the wheel off) jack up the lower arm slowly and see if the drop-link shifts against the sway bar or lower arm.

If it's a clunk from higher up it could be the hat at the top of the suspension, but that's much less common.
Click to expand...

It is quite a clunk, really loud as if something is actually popping apart. Like you say, ill jack the car up and lift the control arm and see what gives. It does seem to be getting worse so i hope its just a case of the drop links going and them needing to be replaced as thats an easy job. Unfortunately the genuine honda ones are 60 odd quid which is a shocking price really:eek:
 
I wasn't a huge fan of the four plastic pins holding the Honda ones together. I opted for the Lemforders from EuroCarParts, £26 ea last I checked. The only down-side with them is they use a squashed nut rather than self-locking for the rear drop-links. It's a bit nasty to tighten, need a good 16mm ring spanner for it.

The drop-link itself _might_ not be the problem though, I'm assuming when you replaced the LCA that you also undid and re-attached the links? If so it could just be that one of the nuts is "loose" (they have to be stupidly tight if the threaded bolt section is smaller than the hole it's running through :( ).
 
mike.h said:
I wasn't a huge fan of the four plastic pins holding the Honda ones together. I opted for the Lemforders from EuroCarParts, £26 ea last I checked. The only down-side with them is they use a squashed nut rather than self-locking for the rear drop-links. It's a bit nasty to tighten, need a good 16mm ring spanner for it.

The drop-link itself _might_ not be the problem though, I'm assuming when you replaced the LCA that you also undid and re-attached the links? If so it could just be that one of the nuts is "loose" (they have to be stupidly tight if the threaded bolt section is smaller than the hole it's running through :( ).
Click to expand...

The ones on the car are ebay specials at around 25 quid a couple of years ago so could have quite easily gone. I did not loosen them when attaching the new camber arms so they should be still tight. I did replace the rollbar bushes about 6 weeks again so maybe a nut has come loose there or something. The genuine Honda ones should be sound but i have considered the Hardrace ones as well as they look quite good.

Ill get access to a ramp over the weekend and see what i can achieve by flexing the rear suspension. Ill respond with the outcome.
 
If you think it likely you were going to replace the droplinks anyway you could use the code LOVE30 on ECP for 30% off almost everything this evening.
 
mike.h said:
If you think it likely you were going to replace the droplinks anyway you could use the code LOVE30 on ECP for 30% off almost everything this evening.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the love buddy ;) but I think I'll leave it until I get the thing in the air. I've just sent back some track rod ends I didn't need to order.

After these cars get over 12 or so years old it's one thing after another I tell you. I noticed a slight squeak from under the hood this morning and after some investigation it seems my bearings on the idle pully are starting to go so I'll have to spend 40 notes on one of those soon lol
 
Tell me about it, this is my second. I keep a spreadsheet of things that need doing. So long as the list continues to get shorter over time I'm happy (after that initial spike, of course).
 
Right then guys, I said I would be back with an answer, so here I am!

The item that was making the loud clunk when weight was lifted or applied was number 20 in the below image.

Part No PFKL672466 Desc BUSH, RR. UPPER ARM



I'll pick up some polys from somewhere and let you know how I get on installing them. Obviously it will be a pain but hey ho. I will say one thing.... They are not easy to find online....

I manged to find it by using a mechanics stethoscope haha
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I agree, those things are always a pain to remove.... I'd like to buy the removal set but budget is always a challenge these days.

First I'll jack the car up tomorrow, remove the wheel, loosen the bolt and spray aload of wd40 in there. The clunk basically is coming from pressure build up and then a release which results in the sound. If I can lube that up it might make a difference. If not I'll dive in for some polys with that bush removal/install kit
 
So I put the car up on jack stands today to look at greasing up the outer bush and shockingly managed to work out that it wasn't the outer bush at all and it was actually the inner bush built into the new camber arm.

I removed the arm and worked the bush back and forth while trying to get some silicone grease in there and it seemed to loosen up OK.

I fitted the arm back in and tested it with a jack on the disc and it seemed OK. I took the car out for a test drive and after 5 mins the creaking had started again. I've now taken a video and have sent an email off requesting a replacement.

Hopefully they will allow me to have one sent out so I can swap it over as it's my daily driver. Disappointed is an understatement.

Anyway, here is a link to the video if anyone is interested - https://youtu.be/OU6svdb24YQ
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi All, I have another question about this. I am being told that because the item was fitted while in the air the arm is under strain and thats why it is clunking.

Apparently i need to refit it when the car is under load. The only way i can think of doing this is on an MOT ramp which i am lucky enough to has access to. I will try this tonight and report back but below is the email they send back. It doesnt seem an unreasonable request just a little strange, let me know what you guys think -

Hi Calvin

I can tell you why this has happened from 14 years experience dealing with these cars and kits of all brands..

The kit was fitted when the car was off the ground, it was tightened up then the car lowered, it’s now under strain. You should loosen off the other side whilst on the ground under load then re tighten it.

Try loosening both sides and re tightening when fully sat on its wheels.

Buddy club, D2, Japspeed and M2 etc all do the same if not fitted correctly, you can get lucky sometimes but occasionally not.

Let me know how you get on.
 
It doesn't need to be fitted entirely when it's on the ground, just tightened when it is. I think this kind of thing is often described in a number of the videos I've seen for this.

The other option is you can load the suspension by jacking the lower arm with the wheel off until the car is level, then tightening it before jacking it back up again sufficient to get the wheel back on.
 
mike.h said:
The other option is you can load the suspension by jacking the lower arm with the wheel off until the car is level, then tightening it before jacking it back up again sufficient to get the wheel back on.
Click to expand...

Funnily enough this is exactly what i did mate ;). Ill wack it on the ramp tonight and undo the bolts and then redo them again and see if it stops the creaking :). I hope it does, but i doubt it will.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top