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C30 rotrex supercharged or the usual bolts&mods?

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23
Hi there again guys. Hope everything goes well with those vtecs in this last few weeks of heat :lol: :lol:

My question is:

Does it worth getting the c30 rotrex and ge it fitted and mapped( etc etc).
Got no mods on the car atm but I do have a brand new tegiwa air intake plus got a TEGIWA 70MM CAT BACK coming soon. Plus The k100 coming aswell. And a HONDA 70MM RBC INLET MANIFOLD(coming soon)
I normaly only drive my civic May-end of August. Winter times the car is stored in a garage.

My question is:
Do I have to make much more mods( or make it ‘stronger’) to handle the rotrex and use it fine.

Or should I just go for the usual bolts&mods plus k100 and get all the parts in and then remapped it once.

I’m not looking for a stupid amount of bhp.
I’d be happy with 245-250.

Cheers guys.
 
You could also consider a shorter final drive, if it's mainly non-motorway driving you do. Similar effect on acceleration to that power increase. Could also combine that with having an LSD fitted.

I'd take that over 50bhp :)
 
From what’s put online rotrex don’t seem that reliable.
Jackson racing super chargers not much better cracking manifolds.
Turbo builds also don’t show great reliability.
Decent N/A set up, good chassis set up, good driver and you’ll be more than quick enough.


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Ty for the replies. yes I'd not go for the supercharged. I rather keep it N/A.
My shop list at the moment is:

final gear kit - 5.84. it would cost me £655( I'm still wondering if I need/would like this, does it make it much much quicker from 0-100mph ? I'm not bothered about top speed. Haven't reached that yet and Ain't planning to.)
TEGIWA 70MM CAT BACK EXHAUST HONDA CIVIC TYPE R EP3 - got it for less than £400. 2nd handed. but never fitted.
Hondata k100 from CPL( might buy this one before anything else) £400 ish
Honda 70mm RBC Inlet Manifold - Honda Civic Type R EP3 & Integra Type R DC5 (pre-cut) £379
Skunk 2 - Honda Civic Type R 2001-2006 EP3 70mm Throttle Body( Would I need a new or stronger throttle body? ) - £260
Tegiwa Air intake carbon - already got it. never fitted.
I'm not a racer boy going redline on it on a daily basis and rev'ing it too much. I actually apprecciate driving it slowly now( so does my wallet)
I think it is a pretty decent stock hatchback. but sometimes I feel like it does need some more power/torque in low revs. like between 2500-5500rpm.

and then remapped it. what do you guys think? I need to consider the fitting prices aswell& remapping in my budget. So I might get one item every month and leave it be in the garage until I'd actually fit it :lol::lol:.

Cheers guys.;)
 
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5.84 is a very short final drive. Too short for the road considering you don’t want to rev it.
5.1 or 5.3 would be more friendly. There’s also the option to fit a longer 6th gear.


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I wouldn't bother with the bored-out inlet manifold or larger TB, esp. not 70mm, those would make more sense if you had forced-induction. Get yourself an RBC or RRC, sure, some good intake and exhaust mods. Maybe a new FD (if you're doing that then the box is out and in pieces, add an LSD if you don't have one already). Add the K100 map after all that's configured.

More important imho would be good tyres, decent brake setup (good fluid, maybe braided lines), and a well-configured suspension (fast road setup, camber arms and bolts, well-adjusted). Going fast in a straight line is all well and good, being able to go more quickly around corners however...
 
5.84 is a very short final drive. Too short for the road considering you don’t want to rev it.
5.1 or 5.3 would be more friendly. There’s also the option to fit a longer 6th gear.


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where could I get one of those ? basically I do exactly 15 miles/day mon-friday. not motorways.
 
You can get 5.1 and 5.3 genuine Honda. Longer 6th is also genuine Honda. Tegiwa should sell them. Spoon sell the 5.3 also.... but it’s still a Honda part.


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I wouldn't bother with the bored-out inlet manifold or larger TB, esp. not 70mm, those would make more sense if you had forced-induction. Get yourself an RBC or RRC, sure, some good intake and exhaust mods. Maybe a new FD (if you're doing that then the box is out and in pieces, add an LSD if you don't have one already). Add the K100 map after all that's configured.

More important imho would be good tyres, decent brake setup (good fluid, maybe braided lines), and a well-configured suspension (fast road setup, camber arms and bolts, well-adjusted). Going fast in a straight line is all well and good, being able to go more quickly around corners however...

So no Manifold? or TB? Should I keep the standard ones? what does FD stands for?
I wasn't considering getting an LSD tbh. but I will have a look.
 
I did not want to open another new topic about the same subject.
12 months later I'm still with my ep3 and another 6000 miles on it.
the mods i've done were:
tegiwa air intake induction.
RBC manifold.
Tegiwa exhaust 3", or maybe 3.5" ( can't remember)
4 yokohama new a8 tyres on standard 17" wheels.
k100 and remapped by CPL back in Feb 19, made a healthy 228bhp, and I gotta say, its a different car. but i was expecting more bhp? if that makes sense.
still has the Cat on and that's probably why ?
i was going towards buying a b18 turbo those days but I reckon i wanna follow the k24 Frankenstein swap/mod for my ep3 and keep it n/a.
any ideas or any comments about it ?
i don't care much about numbers but 260/270 on a n/a K20 would be mad!
i also got a 5.1 final drive but haven't put it in yet, would it need remap after changing the FD? i dont think so :confused:
anyway, many thanks!
Daniel
 
Final drive and an LSD will transform the car on the road from what I keep hearing. Perhaps that should be the next consideration rather than more power.
 
Unless you're using your car on track a lot, final drive will get really annoying in short order.
 
On tracks where you use 6th you'll change gear and there'll be no more power due to the gearing. Two Honda specialists/race teams advised me against it when I did the FD on my DC5.
 
On tracks where you use 6th you'll change gear and there'll be no more power due to the gearing. Two Honda specialists/race teams advised me against it when I did the FD on my DC5.

I think they meant "would new FD still be annoying for a daily-driver if I also had a taller 6th for motorway and open-road cruising?"
 
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