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N77's ex now being sorted by Simon & Jamie

So this happened today, but what a nightmare.

I was going to have a blast in my other Civic and as it’s a civic I thought the cage would fit in.

However this morning, the weather was horrible so decided to take the Megane, it’s a bigger car than the Civic, so thought no probs.

However when we came to put it in the car, we tried all ways, but it wasn’t having it. So paid the guy and said I would come back to get it in the Civic.

So headed back in the Civic prepared, had to take the seats out to get it in (just about) as mine has all the interior so not as easy as I thought.

So back and as my storage is limited, decided to put it in the car out the way. So took the seats out and got it in, a lot easier without interior let me tell ya lol

Obviously I need to get the plates for it and get them welded in etc... but it’s getting to look like a race car at least lol

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Before the seats went back in...

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Unfortunately as my time was taken up going backwards and forwards to Nottingham, I didn’t get chance to do anything on the suspension, so hopefully I may have a bit of time in the morning..


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Looking great Carl, just needs a couple of extinguishers on there and it'll be proper racecar stylee ;)
 
Really want to get a cage sorted for our track car, then I'll feel happier when it comes to changing the seats and getting harnesses!
 
So some more parts purchased, time to concentrate on suspension.

As my control arms and pretty much everything attached to it looks a bit worse for wear, I needed replacements.

After a mate purchased a car to break with SuperPro bushes already fitted and Buddy Club roll centre adjusters, I am purchasing the control arms, hubs, rear trailing arms and hubs too replace mine. I was going SuperPro anyway, so it saves me a job and some money haha

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Once I get them, I will give them a rub down, spray some black paint on them and they will be sound


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Paint with POR15 for best/longest lasting results according to the 16vmini guys. When it comes to rust treatment/prevention the mini people know their stuff :lol:
 
:lol: @ H

I always used Hammerite hammered texture on the 32 parts. Hand paint not spray, then you can put it on thick and gloopy. Seemed to last pretty well. If not get hold of some tractor paint, that sh1t is hard as a coffin nail, especially the Massey Ferguson stuff :lol:
 
I used some black stone chip on the Progress bar on my other one and that’s still okay, so was going to do the same with this.

It’s a only going to get used on track anyway


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So it’s been a busy day and a half.

Yesterday I decided to strip off the suspension, hubs, rear railing arms, rear hubs, camber arms, control arms and rear arb.

The car is 14 years old and I don’t think any of this has ever been touched apart from maybe the brakes. So thank god for my DeWalt impact wrench, it made light work of most of the bolts. Obviously the impact wrench cannot get to some, so still had to use brute force.

The driveshaft on the passenger side came off no problems, and the speed sensor. However on the drivers side things didn’t go as well, the driveshaft was on solid and the speed sensor bolt is knackered so couldn’t undo. I ended up disconnecting the cable and left it in situ at the moment. Trying all day to knock it out and eventually it has come out. Then the track rods proved troublesome and wouldn’t break from the ball joint, so ended up going to Halfords and pick up a fork ball joint separator tool, which has now done the job.

While I gave up on the front for a while, I started on the rear. The rears were even more of a pain, never really looked at the rear in great detail before, but there are bolts galore, so made it easier for myself and just undone the ones attached to the car.

First removed the caliper, to move it out the way I had to disconnect the line then moved it and reconnected as I didn’t have a clamp tool at the moment, it will need bleeding as I will be replacing the pipes to braided lines anyway (or someone will if I can’t). Left the handbrake cables attached also.

As with the drop links, every time I end up cutting them off, so just went ahead and sawed them off.

So I just removed the bolts that attaches the camber arm, one at the control arm and the two holding the trailing arm, then lowered it all down removing the strut bolts and removed it all in one part.

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Also removed the arch liners from the rear as well, the amount of crap that come out of them and down behind them, I can’t believe why they put these in from the facelift, as they have suffered a little from the bottom of the arches, so this will need to be treated before I go any further with anything.

Next job is to treat the rust patches and then under seal in the arches and under chassis.

This is where the messy bit comes in, although if you see the state of me earlier, I can still feel bits of dirt in my hair lol


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Cracking on with it now, be worth all the effort and dirt you're covered in haha!

I needs me one of those impact guns, and a better jack!
 
Cracking on with it now, be worth all the effort and dirt you're covered in haha!

I needs me one of those impact guns, and a better jack!

Blue point do an awesome low entry jack either 2 or 2.5 ton cant remember now. I got mine from the local snap on man I think it was about £140. Best jack I've had after all the trouble with those Clarke aluminium "racing" ones, dangerous those, they are crap.
I've got a Ingersol rand 1/2" battery gun, not cheap but a great bit of kit, loads of power, had it a good few years now. check them out.
 
So this weekend was rust time on the arches. 3 if them were not too bad but the rear drivers side was quite bad.

Used Jenolite Rust Converter stuff to treat it, it turns it black and stops it getting worse, but then coverts it so you can paint/underseal over the top.

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So this was before the treatment on the most affected arch.

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This was after the treatment, you can see where it has gone black.

Then I did 2 coats in each arch, I did further up and around the arch itself, as I have removed the liners, so wanted to protect it for the future use.

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And the one that was most affected

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Now the task begins underneath and behind the rear bumper...


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How long did that all take mate? I fancy doing the FD2. Could it be done in a day?
 
How long did that all take mate? I fancy doing the FD2. Could it be done in a day?

You would probably be pushed to do it in a day, as it’s drying time more so.

I did that over 2 days, so Saturday I used a wire brush and got off loose rust etc... then I used white spirit to go over it all to clean off any dirt etc... then used the rust converter, it dried after 15 mins it says, but it took longer than that, and it’s ready to paint after 3 hours. So as removing all the crap took most of the day, I would have been pushing it.

So Sunday was the masking up and spraying the underseal. Again it needs 3 hours drying time in between coats, so I did 2 which seems plenty. I didn’t start until afternoon however so it maybe possible to do it in a day, but you would have to start pretty early and finish quite late.


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So the next stage of the rust treatment has commenced, took off the rear bumper to have a look.

Basically all okay apart from the crash bar, which are prone to rusting from what I have been told. They can be purchased still from Honda and Tegiwa for around £80 so not bad, but the bolts didn’t look too clever, and I didn’t fancy trying to remove it.

A lot seems to be surface rust which came off when using the wire brush drill bit, what was there I have treated with my rust converter, the same underneath the wheel well and beam.

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Bumper off to assess.

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Took the rear lights off as well to check but all okay, and gave them a clean on the edges as they were a bit green.

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Rust treated so it has now turned black and ready to under seal tomorrow all being well.


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