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FK2 T valve delete

Forgive my ignorance but what exactly does it do & why :confused:

Not on Facebook but looked @ the Tegiwa link & it doesn't really give much away :lol:

Regards,Mark.
 
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Hendy said:
Some FK2Rs have problems with the boost over 1.6 bar between 3000 and 4500rpm.
The boost is waving because the bypass valve is opening and closing all the time, ignition does the harlem shake as well. The reason for that is not the bypass valve itself, but the t-valve.
As we could see on the FK8, this valve doesn’t exist anymore
After changing many other parts without any positive results, we finally deleted the T-Valve and car ran over 1 second faster with full boost and ignition. Not every FK2R has this problem, but it’s only a matter of time this valve breaks, even it is tuned or not. This Mod is very easy to do, you have to connect the two hoses as shown on the pictures an close the intake.

ok, i understand why, but the pictures are useless. tegiwa arent from an FK2/8, and hendy's honda diagram isnt exactly clear what your removing or adding other than actual P/N's.
for the price, i'm tempted. it'll either throw a MIL, have no effect or gain performance.

edit: missed the first line from the hendy quote; >1.6bar. does a standard fk2 get that high, even with eventuri?
 
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With the Eventuri i have seen 1.7 at about 20 C so yes. Unfortunately Tim must be a sign of the times but there is a lot of interesting stuff on facebook and a full pic by pic guide to the t-valve delete. As it is found on the FK8 i would assume it is one of the little tweaks performed by Honda from FK2 to FK8 engine spec so probably worthwhile. Going back to facebook might be worth a join as tuners like TDI North are almost exclusively on there as well as a lot of other tuners and clubs, luckily my wife has an account so i can browse the car stuff.
 
first time on farcebook in months. based on my personal feed i've missed nothing and remebered why i stoped using it.
sub'd to that group just to find out more.
 
Would it be possible for someone to post instructions as I have bought kit and it doesn't come with instructions and Hendy website is not clear??
 
i think i understand the facebook guide enough to question why you need to go down the back of the engine. looks like just clamping off the front piece that goes into the alu intake casting & right side of the 3 metal pipes would do the same without replacing the pipework at the back. unless the t-valve body does something more than a simple t-piece.
also seen a report on bookfarce that it can throw the EML on, but being the internet you never know who to trust on accuracy, knowledge or capability.

edit: no, i havent done mine. i'm waiting for more info on it first.
 
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hopefully this works: https://imgur.com/a/IwlaUO9

facebook link makes it far more complicated that it should be. i really cant see you needing to remove the scuttle tray as i can get my hand down the back relatively easily and on to the 3 clips without top engine cover removed. removing that should make it easily doable.
 
I've done it but couldn't really guide anyone on how to do it all I'll say is it's on the drivers side of the engine at the back and not under the small removable plastic engine cover as I think this is the one people have changed with it triggering a eml (it was a pita to get apart especially if you have big hands)

with regards to the T piece it is a valve so it opens and closes with vacuum (not really sure what the idea behind it is though)
 
no it only makes a difference if the T valve has broken but it's a bit of a weak part from what I can gather (if it is supposed to make a difference I didn't notice anything but I did it at the same time as an intercooler and it's only a weekend car so always feels quick :lol:)
 
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