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FK2 FK2 wheel nut torque spec ?

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846
Hi all,

I had 2 new tyres fitted yesterday & on the paperwork it says the fitter torqued the wheel nuts to 110 Nm :|

Can somebody with 100% certainty tell me what the torque for the FK2 wheel nuts is ?


After a search on the net the FN2 which has M12 x 1.5MM wheel nuts requires a torque of 108 Nm & the FK2/FK8 which has M14 x 1.5 MM wheel nuts allegedly requires a higher torque of 127 Nm

You would think it would tell you that in the FK2 manual but all it mentions is the torque for installing a space-saver wheel (108 Nm) which we don't even have #-o


Here's a screenshot from page 631 of the FK8 Owners Manual....





The Owners Manual I've got for the FK2 just lists 108 Nm & doesn't mention which engine variant it refers to :!:

All a bit confusing really :smt119

Any help would be very much appreciated :)

Regards,Mark.
 
yep, m14x1.5... 127nm's.
aside from the manual, you'd of thought it'd be on the tyre pressure sticker on the door jamb too. i've marker pen'd it on mine for ease of confirming in the future.
 
Another question :p

Is it wise to do the locking nut up to the same spec as the other regular nuts ?

Locking nuts/keys can be a bit on the fragile side in my experience 8-[
 
Same spec for the lockers. If they're Honda lockers it should say 127Nm on the packet.
 
So I borrowed an expensive torque wrench,22MM 6 sided socket & extension bar from & friend (thanks Alex) & set about checking the wheel nut torque...turns out they were all ok anyway FFS

For reference you need an extension of some sort to get past the arches ;)

Well at least I have the peace of mind the wheels aren't going to fall off anytime soon :lol:

We have a 2015 Ford Fiesta @ work (1.5 Diesel with 15" alloys) & after looking through the owners manual the wheel nut torque for that is even higher than the FK2 at 135Nm/100 ftlb :shock:

Although that only has 4 studs so that may affect things :smt102

Nuts,nuts,I'm becoming obsessed with nuts I tell ya :lol:

Regards,Mark.
 
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This is overkill IMO. Yea, for a single wheel nut perhaps. 4 or 5 nuts though, it's just not necessary. I've lost count of the number of times I've removed and refit wheels, I can tell you how many times in 15 years of driving I've had loose nuts or broken a wheel stud though - 0.

Just use a standard length ratchet, go tight but don't go retarded. I usually find I can't remove them with the same tool after a month or two's driving. So breaker bar to snap the friction. Generally speaking, I'll only ever use a torque wrench where the clamping pressure affects a running clearance, such as bearing straps/caps. When it comes to wheelnuts, a little under tight is vastly preferable to over tight. You DO NOT want to plastically deformate a wheel stud, that's seriously bad news. IMO swinging on a long torque wrench and trusting in a out of calibration spring of unknown state (or worse, an impact driver) carries more danger than getting the human touch for it and making the decision for yourself.

I especially can't understand it when experienced people use like a 7lbft torque wrench to do bolts into ally. DAFUQ?
 
IMO swinging on a long torque wrench and trusting in a out of calibration spring of unknown state (or worse, an impact driver) carries more danger than getting the human touch for it and making the decision for yourself.

a) torque wrenches should be calibrated often so you should never have an 'unknown state'. makes the entire point of a torque wrench pointless if you don't. also not everyone has that 'feel' of whats tight. one mans tight is another mans loose, but 127nm is the same to everyone.
b) you shouldn't be using impact driver to do nuts up.

I'm ex-motor trade. brother still in it. i can guarantee i've lost that feel and he'll be far closer to proper torque. i even do the 150mile re-torque check and almost every time, they go slightly tighter. not enough to worry about, but they do loose it.
i tend to do the critical stuff; wheel nuts, hub nuts, subframe and engine internals are the bits i torque.
 
I did warn against an impact driver....

I don't know of any home gamer who ever sent off their torque wrench for cal. Agreed it should be, but it probably isn't unless you're at a pro garage.... and even then, I bet a good percentage aren't.
 
You should use a torque wrench whenever there’s a specified torque for the nut/bolt.
I use mine as much as possible. It’s not I don’t have any feel for it. But using a torque wrench you know it’s 100% correct. It’s the difference between ‘that will do’ and a proper job.
You can do just as much damage over tightening compared to leaving loose.
 
Whether it's a £200 banger or a £100k Porsche I've always done them by feel on a breaker bar. No issues in 20 years.

By the same token, there's no harm in using a calibrated torque wrench... although these are more common when you've got rookie technicians who need their work validating for safetys sake. Again, no problem with this.

The key is a fairly uniform torque across the bolts, not so much a specified value. Either competence or a torque wrench can achieve this.
 
You should use a torque wrench whenever there’s a specified torque for the nut/bolt.
I use mine as much as possible. It’s not I don’t have any feel for it. But using a torque wrench you know it’s 100% correct. It’s the difference between ‘that will do’ and a proper job.
You can do just as much damage over tightening compared to leaving loose.

I have to disagree to some extent. I think it potentially loses some mechanical sympathy/mindfulness, especially for the less experienced mechanics. Crap analogy: Like driving with a sat nav, you’re potentially not paying quite as much attention to the road as you otherwise would.

With all that said, you do have to put your hours in with a torque wrench to get ‘the feel’. So perhaps it is actually the best thing to do initially.


.... came full circle there didn’t I :lol:
 
By the same token, there's no harm in using a calibrated torque wrench... although these are more common when you've got rookie technicians who need their work validating for safetys sake. Again, no problem with this.
Rookie technician? Really? As an example, every AMG engine is hand built. Every single nut and bolt is done up with a tool that measures the torque. I don’t think rookies assemble them engines...
The only ways I can think of where a torque wrench isn’t worth using and should be done by feel is when:
- Reusing bolts that have been stretched (bolts should be renewed anyway)
- Tightening bolts that aren’t clean/corroded (again should be renewed or cleaned)
 
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