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Over tightened drain plug...

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8
Hey everyone!

Long time lurker, first time poster here :)

So back in August while servicing my EP3 before it's first track day, I decided for once to use my torque wrench to tighten down my oil drain plug to spec (33 lb ft) and as I was tightening it down it did seem quite tight but it did click to indicate that it reached that torque. As it did click and I double checked that I'd set it to 33 lb ft, I carried on and refilled it with oil but in the back of my mind was a bit worried that I had possibly over tightened it as it did feel bit tight for a drain plug. The edges the bolt head were ever so slightly rounded but a 6 point socket was still sitting on there snug enough.

Anyway, fast forward to this morning when I came to change the oil again and the sump plug is on TIGHT. I've tried with a 17mm 6 point socket on a 1/2 inch drive but it won't budge, and then with a reasonably sized breaker bar and a decent amount of force. By this point, the head of the sump plug was really starting to round off so I quit while I was ahead and a mechanic mate used a pump to siphon out the old oil.

Question is, as I could still feel a decent amount of resistance as I was tightening it and the torque wrench did eventually click at 33 lb ft, once the bolt does come out is it likely that the threads should be alright and it's just a case of putting in a new sump plug? Or is it likely that the threads are done for and I'll have to look at re-tapping or putting in an over-sized bolt? I was under the impression that if the threads were damaged you'd instantly feel less resistance as you were tightening it up, as in it would feel tight and then suddenly loosen up as the threads give out?

It's not leaking or anything so it can wait until it's next oil change in spring but it's bugging me thinking I've messed up something so stupid! I've done oil changes on all of the cars I've had and always just snugged up the bolt and never had any leaks or problems on the next change, and the one time I decided to get a torque wrench on it I've potentially damaged it!

I know it's gonna be impossible to know until the drain bolt comes out and I can have a look at the threads inside but it's bugging the hell out of me! I have been considering fitting a drop-in sump baffle for next year's track days so if it does need re-tapping I'll do it/have it done when I have to sump off to fit the baffles.
 
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You have two options - Man Up and go for it and hope it comes out. You may need to weld in a replacement bung though if you screw this up. But this gives you the chance to go for an oversized one from another type of car.
Other option is to drill it out and heli-coil it, but this could work out more difficult than the first option.

Best of luck with it though bud, it's not going to be an easy job.
 
Could you have cross threaded it? If the head is rounding I'd get some mole grips on it and use some muscle ;)
 
You have two options - Man Up and go for it and hope it comes out. You may need to weld in a replacement bung though if you screw this up. But this gives you the chance to go for an oversized one from another type of car.
Other option is to drill it out and heli-coil it, but this could work out more difficult than the first option.

Best of luck with it though bud, it's not going to be an easy job.
These are both options but unless your very mechanically minded I wouldn't attempt helicoiling it. Is use the things for a living and hate them.

If it were me I would prepare for the worst. That's it's knackered. Get down the breaker and have a sump ready. If it's dead then swap the sumps. If it's ok sell or return the second sump.

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If using a breaker bar don't use a 12pt socket, use a quality hexagonal. Rounding off shouldn't be a possibility if your socket fits properly. If you've already mangled it sufficiently that the socket sits at an angle or has slop then as others suggest you might need to prepare for the worst :(
 
Use some of these if not:

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Work on fully rounded nuts too!
 
33ftlb for a sump plug...WTF Honda? That's more than stage 1 for head bolts, and they actually have to hold something down. :confused:
 

Sh1t the bed! And this is another reason why I never read manufacturers torque specs (except crank/head related) :lol:


Seriously though OP. If it's in really bad shape and it's not going to budge, don't bother with any of the fixes. More trouble that they're worth IMO. Just get hold of a new (to you) sump. They won't be expensive from a breaker.

Might be worth checking if other K series sumps fit too... K24, 1.8 etc. Might end up cheaper if they're putting a type R tax on.
 
Cheers for the advice everyone, much appreciated!

When I reinstalled the drain plug it did go in straight and as I was tightening it down it didn’t feel like it was cross-threading or anything, as in no going tight then loose or anything like that so I assume it’s just on too tight. I knew I should have just snugged it up like I usually do!

For now it has fresh oil in it and nothings leaking so I’ll leave it as is for now and pick up a new sump plug and a second hand sump from eBay. I was half thinking about pulling the sump next service anyway to fit baffles so it wouldn’t be any extra work if the existing sump was toast!
 
I always feel it's not tight enough when I do mine, if it felt like too much and it's now stuck my gut says it's cross threaded or dirty threads.

Best case it just needs a shock to break it loose but with it being a risky part I'd expect the worst and have a spare sump handy for sure.
 
I found on the Skyline it was best to use a copper ‘crush’ washer on the drain plug. It meant for a good tight fit and you didn’t over torque the bolt and strip or cross thread it. I don’t know if it’s the same on a Honda, it’s been so long since I did an oil swap on one :lol:


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Can always get an oil suction pump to change the oil, it's what I do.

Yeah that's what we did the other day, worked pretty well! Must've got most of the oil out as it took nearly 5l to fill it back up again. I don't think I'd do it that way for every oil change but for the odd one here and there it works fine. I'm pretty sure I've heard that VW use that method on the newer models too.
 
I always feel it's not tight enough when I do mine, if it felt like too much and it's now stuck my gut says it's cross threaded or dirty threads.

Best case it just needs a shock to break it loose but with it being a risky part I'd expect the worst and have a spare sump handy for sure.


Yeah I mean it was a brand new torque wrench and like I say it did click at the indicated 33 ft lbs but it was definitely tighter than I would have done it if I did it without a torque wrench. Next time I will just go by feel like I usually do!

I'll pick up a new sump plug and a spare sump before the next oil change just incase the threads are knackered. Sump will be coming off anyway most likely so it'll be no extra work to replace it and if the old one is toast I may use it to have a go at tapping a new thread! Always keen to learn something new :)
 
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