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K100 ECU and Remap

Harry I genuinely think you'd be better off keeping the inlet manifold money for a LSD so you can use the extra power. They make a huge difference to spirited driving and driving characteristics in general. With your exhaust set up letting more air in won't help anyway is it has no where to go.

Are there any members locally with a LSD that you could experience and look into yourself?

Due to the mapping costs and k100 etc. If I was you I'd go for a dc5 manifold and cat over an inlet manifold. I'm not sure on the numbers it would make, but it's should give possibility for a bit more power.

I ran an rbc, teg m intake, dc sports manifold and unsilenced b pipe with original back box and made just under 235bhp from memory, on some realistic rollers, so I'd guess you'd get a print out with similar at tdi with your current set up.

Sent from my Mi MIX 2 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks guys for the input. I don't know anyone locally with an EP3 so can't try out an Lsd... If it makes a big difference then I'll probably be looking at one when I need a clutch change... My car is on 116k and according to the massive in depth service records its still on the original clutch, so I'm expecting to replace it in the not too distant future... The original owner had it 10 years so I'm guessing he was a sympathetic driver to make a clutch last that long... Perhaps I'll just get a K100 remap after everyone's comments and perhaps an Lsd in the future...
 
I (like Chris) am surprised you'd be bouncing off the limiter; VTEC engagement point by default is around 5800rpm, redline is over 8000 giving you more than 1200rpm to play with. Space between gears is no more than 600rpm.

Is there perhaps a problem with your vehicle? Is VTEC engagement at the wrong point somehow? Does the MIL light up when you first turn the key to ON and extinguish after (that is, is your MIL bulb functional?).
 
That's an interesting point Mike.h, I'll check when I get home... It always seems to be around 6k but obviously I can't look at it accurately whilst driving responsibly with due care and attention... I must admit when I first drove the car (first ever vtec) I was surprised how narrow the margin for error was dropping out of vtec... I know Chris Harris in his review of the EP3 loved it but also mentioned the vtec dropout, I'll have to investigate if mines worse than it should be! I know it's had a replacement ecu as the previous owner took it for tuning and the 'experts' fried his original ecu....!
 
Are you changing gear at the red line on the tacho or over 8k? Standard limiter is 8250 I think.

A K100 will drop VTEC to around 4.5-5k, but there won't be much difference in power in that mid range unless you do the supporting mods.
 
The rev limiter is definitely over the 8k mark on the tacho Chris, I have to bounce off it to stay in vtec,if I try and change any point before that it'll drop out... I'm beginning to wonder when my vtec crossover actually is now, knowing its had a new ecu has got me doubting if all is as it should be... The 'check engine light' illuminates with the ignition dash check so I don't think there's any issue there...
 
To be honest it might be that the clutch is on its way out, if it's not engaging properly then the revs will drop.
 
Is the gear-change slick? There should be absolutely no notchiness.
 
Vtec should kick in around 5,850 rpm and if you change up at 8k it should still be around 6k on the up shift.
 
Yeah the gear change is sweet, VERY sweet compared to my Clio 182 anyway!! It would probably help comparing to another ep3 with a replacement clutch, however it changes gears fine at all revs and all gears...
 
Yeah the gear change is sweet, VERY sweet compared to my Clio 182 anyway!! It would probably help comparing to another ep3 with a replacement clutch, however it changes gears fine at all revs and all gears...

Not a fair comparison since 172/182 gearboxes aren't the best around.
 
Lol Chris, the Clio box is awful.... :D The clutch bites pretty high up, it isn't a small movement before biting... Is that a good thing or a bad thing?!
 
They're normally on the way out if close to the floor and difficult to get in gear at high rpm. Ideally they bite half way.
 
Yeah I'd say mine is about half way flashy, no notches, never hard to get in gear from cold or when up to temp... Sorry to any other guys in this thread as its turned into diagnose my car please chaps...! Anyway getting back to the K100 topic, it's definitely going to get done in the very near future so hopefully I'll have more info and perhaps shed some light on this matter. Maybe something will come to light regarding the new ecu or some other issues... I love how the car drives in general, it's set up great and feels really fast even though by todays standards it isn't very fast.. Tomorrow's task is to fit a cold air feed pipe straight from my fog light to my ITG Maxogen just to make sure I have enough cold air coming in and maximise the potential of the set up...
 
Very interested to see where you go with this bud, looking to do the same sometime soon.
@musegroove if I go to TDI North to get the package done you'll have to stick the kettle on and show me your motor ;)
 
Remember that vtec being lower doesn't mean more power. When mapped to the mods it is set where the high cam makes more power than the low cam. So having it come in at 3k would just lose a load of mid range power for example.

Once it's up to temp it isn't too bad, extra rpm and longer vtec duration will help. But I wouldn't use it long term.

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I've had the CPL reflash fitted. As you say, when cold the idle takes a while to settle. But when warm, it seems to be a significant improvement. Vtec kick in is much much smoother and comes in earlier. Pretty happy so far and should suit what I want for this year at least. I'm planning on visiting a local rolling road, so will post up the results when done.
 
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