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K100 ECU and Remap

Yes so found a place up in Glasgow PerformanceTek Racing Ltd. Have quoted £430 to put the K100 onto the original ECU which will sort the immo issue out and will upload a base map for me then to fit it back in and drive the car down to J.Cal.

CPL do the same. Postal service to fit a k100 and put the 'reflash' map on it. That's what I did to spread the cost a bit. The reflash map is terrible though, so I'd only use it until you could get mapped properly.

I've since chopped in my k100 for a kpro as being able to upload maps is a really handy feature in case it needs tweaking slightly while running a rotrex. Plus the Bluetooth connection is handy to see what's going on.



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230 yes, 240 would be a push but certainly doable.

The DC5 manifold is the most reliable for passing an MOT. Some of the other aftermarkets either don't meet emissions or they have to be absolutely piping hot to squeeze through the test.

So was looking at the Japspeed 4-2-1 mani guess its not that great then. Also looking to change the intake mani and was looking at the M2 Motorsport V2 mani or would it be better to spend bit extra and get the RBC mani.
 
I can't comment really dude. I've only tried a handful of setups and parts. Nowt wrong with the japspeed mani, it might make a couple of horses less than a toda but it'll cost about a grand less.

IMO a Honda part will likely be better than any mind/low end aftermarket part in terms of fit and finish though.
 
News to me mate, I'd heard of discrepancies between rollers from one place to another but first time I've ever heard about a north/south divide.

It's kind of inconsequential anyway. The number is only for pub talk, the gains over previous map & quality of the map are the important thing.
Exacto.
 
Can't go wrong with an Rbc as they're tried and tested. Though an M2 is meant to be alright and no trimming the slam panel, so I hear.

I had an rbc and dc sports 421 manifold. Made 232 with standard back box to keep the noise down. Then changed to a 3 inch exhaust and it made 244 peak but mid range torque was slightly lower. Area under the graph was better and it did seem a bit more eager to go through the revs, but was probably just the noise!

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I think 230 bhp with an mot compliant cat would be ideal for me, I guess I better start saving... Cheers for all the answers to my questions guys.
 
I've heard it's the best budget manifold, but no first hand experience. Most aftermarket ones with a flexi require engine mount inserts to limit engine movement and prolong the flexi life. Just something else to consider. Energy inserts are fairly cheap.

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Does anyone know of a dyno graph or a video showing the difference between a stock ep3 and one with a remap?
 
I've got some print outs from mine stock and then mapped somewhere. But it was different dynos. I'll see if I can find them.

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Sounds like bollocks to me that pal.

They're known to read high, always have done. Circa 10-15bhp high by my estimation. That's all in the calibration of the rollers. Quality of the maps is certainly questionable though. Last one I had from them (that the car sold with) was lumpy AF at part throttle. Fine at WOT though.
That's because most highly recommended tuners only tune WOT and leave part how it is. Which is pretty dumb if you ask me but it makes them money and people go ZOMG I have 248 bhp from an intake and exhaust...
 
Well I know walkden had it mapped again after he bought it by the same people and they sorted part throttle out. I obviously got them on a bad day. Out of the 5 or 6 maps they did for me on that car, only the last one was lumpy at part throttle.
 
as the decat mani will trigger the EML. Will having a K100 and a remap be able to turn the EML off, or would I need to buy an 02 simulator
 
Are the gains from a DC5 manifold different enough from the EP3 stock manifold to be cost effective? They don't really come cheap and if you are chasing numbers a cheap Japspeed seems to do better from what I see here?
 
CPL do the same. Postal service to fit a k100 and put the 'reflash' map on it. That's what I did to spread the cost a bit. The reflash map is terrible though, so I'd only use it until you could get mapped properly.

How long did you use the CPL reflash for and did you ever get it dyno'd before the remapping?? I'm thinking about it for a short term option (just a track car) before manifold upgrades at a later date...
 
How long did you use the CPL reflash for and did you ever get it dyno'd before the remapping?? I'm thinking about it for a short term option (just a track car) before manifold upgrades at a later date...
It was my daily although very few miles. I had it for about 3 months I think. I had to delete the idle air assist valve just to get it to idle from cold below 2k. My 3 mile commute to work was like having cruise control stuck on, revs wanted to be at 2.5k ish, even when cruising in a 30 zone.

As a stop gap, yes it'll do. Long term solution, completely pointless. Cpl were far from helpful with the fault aswell. Point blank denying the issue has ever come up before and it must be a problem with the car. I got another throttlw body complete and kept swapping bits around, still the same. Then found a few forum posts describing the same faults and booked in for Romain to have a go at it once I'd fitted the manifolds etc. Needless to say it was perfect afterwards.

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It was my daily although very few miles. I had it for about 3 months I think. I had to delete the idle air assist valve just to get it to idle from cold below 2k. My 3 mile commute to work was like having cruise control stuck on, revs wanted to be at 2.5k ish, even when cruising in a 30 zone.

As a stop gap, yes it'll do. Long term solution, completely pointless. Cpl were far from helpful with the fault aswell. Point blank denying the issue has ever come up before and it must be a problem with the car. I got another throttlw body complete and kept swapping bits around, still the same. Then found a few forum posts describing the same faults and booked in for Romain to have a go at it once I'd fitted the manifolds etc. Needless to say it was perfect afterwards.

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Thanks for that. I really want the vtec lower for hillclimbing this year, but also struggling with the k100, manifold and mapping costs.. so might be a stop gap solution. If it’s too horrendous then I’ll just have to go the whole way.. thanks again.
 
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