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FK8 FK8 Oil?

Messages
252
Sorry if this has been covered but what engine oil are FK8 owners using?

I think i'm right in saying it's a fully synth 0W 20? Are you all sticking with the Honda oil?

I guess a lot of people will have the 5 year service plan (as I do) so will be sticking with that for now?
 
I am looking into this as we speak, I consider 0w20 too thin to use unless subzero, the handbook says 0w30 or 5w30 can be used if non of the Honda 2.0 oil is available.

I went into my dealer last night to get them to ask Honda if 0w30 can be used full stop. I will be doing 8+ trackdays this year and I want to give my engine a better "cushion".

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
I’ve used Mobil 0w20 in mine as a top up. Mainly cause I had it for my Fk2 and we stock it at work.
Pretty sure when I checked it met the requirements.
One thing I will say though is it’s green for some reason?
 
The Honda 2 oil is very good, they teamed up with castrol for the FK2 release, rarely needs topping up, quick to get up to temp, which is perfect for me as I'm straight out on the main road in rush hour and you're being pushed from the get go
 
Can you be sure that the type R specific (2.0?) version of the oil is being used at dealers in the correct application? When I bought my CTR they were going to sell me a standard 0W/20 (not the type R specific version) as a top-up to shove in the boot. I didn't bother buying that as it can be got in many other places cheaper - and they helpfully explained that they received the correct oil for my car in bulk for servicing...

Anyway, since i had previous experience with my M3 of BMW dealers unaware of the difference in M Power v standard engines (10W/60 for S54 engine) I am now concerned the 'wrong' oil may be added at the soon to be needed service B (nearly 12 months and 8k - counter says oil has 2.2k to go ***)..

Are we all happy the right oil will go in at service time at Honda dealers? Also what is service A (since B seems to be oil and filter)??? Finally, is it true that some spec'd services change oil only (not filter)? That seems crazy to me ?!! - I do miss the easy to understand service schedule of my E46M3. :(

PS does the count down to oil service and 'B' mean I have CBS active? Totally confused tbh.... (I have 5 year service plan in place via PCP).
 
Any more thoughts on this?

Mine came with 0W20 new, then was changed to Shell Helix 5W30 by my Honda dealer at its first year service. I'm thinking about getting it serviced independently this year and going back to Honda 0W20, but wonder if a thicker oil will be better for track work.
 
I'm surprised a main dealer didn't use it's own Honda oil, which is Castrol made,
I know Helix 5W30 was listed as a go to oil on the release of the FK2 type R but that was mainly due to the limit of Honda Castrol available at the time (was many months before that became available)
Cox Honda do oil service packs, I usually buy cheap from them and take it to an independent garage, order through the forum and get another discount,
I can't fault the Honda oil
 
I was also surprised, and a little miffed given their service prices (hence looking at an independent this year).

How do you order through the forum to get a discount?
 
I understand that the fk8 is the same engine basically as the fk2. I run an fk2 and in 2015 Castrol and Honda developed an oil specific for the fk2 and Is Castrol edge professional h.The h standing for Honda. For the type r Ow-20 is specified. And is extremely quick to get round the k20C1 engine. This is very important as most engine wear occurs on start up. I've read recently that Honda type 2 oil is made by Mobil. But that's what It said. Only the dealers will know as it comes in barrels. As said above why a dealer put 0-W30 is beyond me. Castrol edge professional h is an extremely well fully synthetic oil and you can see the spec online. I have read that some fk8 owners have been having fuel in the oil in the crankcase,so some owners are considering 0w-30 so it will accept some fuel dilution with less effect than it was if it was 0w-20. I think Owners of Both the fk2 and fk8 need to understand causes of fuel in the oil. Because the k20C1 engine is a dfi turbo you need to be aware that when the engine is cold and you start the car you need to not idle on the drive for very long maybe a few minutes and set off and the engine will warm up quicker than ticking over on the drive. The coolant temperature will reach its optimum very quickly and you need to be aware that the oil takes longer to reach its optimum temperature before you use all the bhp and torque at your disposal.
Never switch your fk on, on your drive and then switch it off moments later as the engine will enter into what's called a cold start and put rich petrol into the bores and will stay there and will dilute the oil on the bores Which will find it's way eventually into the crankcase. You need to get the engine up to temperature by taking the car for a run.
Avoid long periods of idling as this is not good for the spark plug and also can cause fuel in the oil also not good for the exhaust system as condensation left uncleared from the system can cause premature wear. Also short distances are not good and are classed in the cars handbook as severe usage. The service schedule is different for severe use and things like it's very important to change the oil more often ,also the engine will not get up to temperature so lots of rich fuel around and this could cause fuel in the oil. If you smell petrol on the dipstick then a small amount shouldn't be a major problem with the oil, but if your oil on the dipstick level rises you need to keep a eye on it and if it keeps rising have a lab test or just change the oil.
most of this information what I have read and some is from my personal experience. I did have a slight ingress of petrol in my engine as I wasn't aware of just starting the engine and moving it on my drive to wash it without getting it up to temperature would leave rich fuel in the bores leading to fuel in the crankcase. since I never start my car and switch it off ,I always get the engine up to temperature with a run.I hope this helps all fk8 and fk2 owners.
Disclaimer. This article is part what I've read and part personal experience.
Regards Fred.
 
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I have always used the Millers Nanodrive 0w 20, no issues and doesn't seem to use a drop. This includes a bit of track use.
 
I understand that the fk8 is the same engine basically as the fk2. I run an fk2 and in 2015 Castrol and Honda developed an oil specific for the fk2 and Is Castrol edge professional h.The h standing for Honda. For the type r Ow-20 is specified. And is extremely quick to get round the k20C1 engine. This is very important as most engine wear occurs on start up. I've read recently that Honda type 2 oil is made by Mobil. But that's what It said. Only the dealers will know as it comes in barrels. As said above why a dealer put 0-W30 is beyond me. Castrol edge professional h is an extremely well fully synthetic oil and you can see the spec online. I have read that some fk8 owners have been having fuel in the oil in the crankcase,so some owners are considering 0w-30 so it will accept some fuel dilution with less effect than it was if it was 0w-20. I think Owners of Both the fk2 and fk8 need to understand causes of fuel in the oil. Because the k20C1 engine is a dfi turbo you need to be aware that when the engine is cold and you start the car you need to not idle on the drive for very long maybe a few minutes and set off and the engine will warm up quicker than ticking over on the drive. The coolant temperature will reach its optimum very quickly and you need to be aware that the oil takes longer to reach its optimum temperature before you use all the bhp and torque at your disposal.
Never switch your fk on, on your drive and then switch it off moments later as the engine will enter into what's called a cold start and put rich petrol into the bores and will stay there and will dilute the oil on the bores Which will find it's way eventually into the crankcase. You need to get the engine up to temperature by taking the car for a run.
Avoid long periods of idling as this is not good for the spark plug and also can cause fuel in the oil also not good for the exhaust system as condensation left uncleared from the system can cause premature wear. Also short distances are not good and are classed in the cars handbook as severe usage. The service schedule is different for severe use and things like it's very important to change the oil more often ,also the engine will not get up to temperature so lots of rich fuel around and this could cause fuel in the oil. If you smell petrol on the dipstick then a small amount shouldn't be a major problem with the oil, but if your oil on the dipstick level rises you need to keep a eye on it and if it keeps rising have a lab test or just change the oil.
most of this information what I have read and some is from my personal experience. I did have a slight ingress of petrol in my engine as I wasn't aware of just starting the engine and moving it on my drive to wash it without getting it up to temperature would leave rich fuel in the bores leading to fuel in the crankcase. since I never start my car and switch it off ,I always get the engine up to temperature with a run.I hope this helps all fk8 and fk2 owners.
Disclaimer. This article is part what I've read and part personal experience.
Regards Fred.

Some good advice here
 
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