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EP3 shocks, Sachs, Bilstein B4 or OEM?

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66
Hello

Sorry if this is a repeat question but I'm quite new to the EP3.

Standard car on 14 year old, 63k, original shocks and one of the fronts has slight play in the slider. Thinking it's time for a shock refresh?

I've done a couple of bushes and drop links so all of that is OK.

I think my options are Sachs, Bilstein B4 or drop the money and go OEM?

Would I be correct in saying that the best top mounts are OEM?

Any advice most welcome!
 
I believe the OEM items are Sachs so just go with them and as you say, use original top mounts.
 
Thanks for the pointers.

I took a look at the shocks fitted and they are Nissin Showa. They have the same part number on them as I get on the Lings parts catalogue, so assume they are original?

I've ordered 4 shocks and front top mounts from Honda, thinking that original Showa shocks will be supplied. Lets see.

Cheers

Steve





Original top mounts
 
Fitted the front shocks today, that went well. The ones supplied by Honda are Showa and have "Type-R" stamped into the tube bellow the steering arm. Both shocks removed had play in the sliders but the damping was not appreciably different than the new ones, Honda quality showing through 14 years and 62k miles. Replaced the top mounts with new Honda items too but the originals were perfect and had thousands of miles left in them.

Found that the track rod ends did not have castellated nuts fitted, though the split pins were, doing nothing! I suspect that these have been replaced at some time?

While I couldn't feel any play, the track rod ends are very floppy, so need changing anyway. Hope the new ones have new castellated nuts or ny-locks.

The bottom bolts on the rear shocks wouldn't budge with an 18" breaker bar and a very hard tug, so I have decided to leave these for now. There are no leaks knocks or bangs back there at the moment.

Cheers

Steve
 
Thanks for the pointers.

I took a look at the shocks fitted and they are Nissin Showa. They have the same part number on them as I get on the Lings parts catalogue, so assume they are original?

I've ordered 4 shocks and front top mounts from Honda, thinking that original Showa shocks will be supplied. Lets see.

Cheers

Steve





Original top mounts

Hi mate, Did you order these from Honda garage, and if so do you mind me asking how much you were for the 4 shocks? I'm on 80k and they are due replacing, were you using factory springs also?
 
Hi

I bought them from Cox Motor Parts, £156 each for fronts and £142 each for the rears.

The top mounts were genuine parts from Tegiwa but can’t find the invoice for those.

Fitted to standard springs and properly aligned it rides and handles great.

The supplied shocks were manufactured by Showa and stamped Type-r, the same as the ones removed.

Cheers

Steve
 
Hi

I bought them from Cox Motor Parts, £156 each for fronts and £142 each for the rears.

The top mounts were genuine parts from Tegiwa but can’t find the invoice for those.

Fitted to standard springs and properly aligned it rides and handles great.

The supplied shocks were manufactured by Showa and stamped Type-r, the same as the ones removed.

Cheers

Steve

Thanks Steve for quick reply. I have an 02 jdm EP3 and it has been lowered before i purchased it. Just feels like it could do with a refresh and i would rather have the factory feel, so this may mean factory springs as well to return it to standard. It does about 200 miles a year so i want to enjoy it when i get the chance in the summer to get out add about. Can you notice a real difference in comfort?
 
Hi

There is an improvement in body control and the ride is good. No bangs, crashes or body shake. I’m glad that I fitted original suspension!!

I had to fit adjustable camber arms to the rear in order to attain “standard” geometry, with maximum allowed front camber.

On the lumpy roads of Manchester, lowered harder suspension would ruin the drive IMHO.

Cheers
 
Hi

There is an improvement in body control and the ride is good. No bangs, crashes or body shake. I’m glad that I fitted original suspension!!

I had to fit adjustable camber arms to the rear in order to attain “standard” geometry, with maximum allowed front camber.

On the lumpy roads of Manchester, lowered harder suspension would ruin the drive IMHO.

Cheers

I think the OEM shocks, eibach lowering springs 25mm, front and rear adjustable camber bolts and arms, and a geometry set up? I'm in Scotland, feel your pain regarding the roads and comfort lol
 
Hopefully mate. I had a look at the springs earlier that were on it. They are red so i think they are eibachs not sure which model of spring. They look a bit rusty, apart from not looking great do you know the lifespan of a set of lowering springs?
 
I have ordered and have on hold front Honda OEM shocks, they are on hold until i find out if the UK shocks fit the JDM pre facelift EP3? Does anyone know? Spoke to cox they say the JDM ones show different part numbers and i would need to order them in from Japan if the UK shocks don't fit.

These are numbers:
Front R shock 51605S5TZ06
Front L shock 51606S5TZ06

Thanks guys
 
Spoke with the dealer today, they spoke to a parts specialist in Japan and he reckons 99.9% the UKDM shocks are the same fitment as the JDM, just different part numbers due to a different country. So will update when i get them fitted. Had a look under the car and surprised to find buddy club P1 racing rear camber arms fitted so that was a nice bonus. Not sure if there is front camber bolts fitted i can't see i am new to mechanics and not exactly sure where to look when lying beside the car, its low so can't get head under the motor to look properly and ****ing about with my phone and torch wasn't easy to see!
 
Good to hear!

When you remove the 2 bolts holding the strut to the hub carrier, they will be different from one another if one is a “camber” bolt.

The struts on mine, standard springs and shocks, were very easy to do. No spring compressor needed and good access to bolts.

If you are not fitting new track rod ends, I’d recommend using a scissor type ball joint splitter to release them from the strut as the fork types split the rubber boots.

If you’re new to car mechanics, make sure you have both of the wheels off the ground supported on axle stands, it’s the safest and best method. It stops the anti roll bar loading the suspension of the wheel in the air, if you try to do it lifting one wheel at a time.

Good Luck
 
You don't need a ball joint splitter. Just shock the arm of the shock on the outside of the ball joint with the nut loose, plenty of lube and they pop out :)
 
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