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Jakabi's FN2 (2011) Build

Messages
31
Got a build thread going on civinfo but thought I start a thread here as finding loads of helpful stuff on this forum too :)

Summary ...

- 2011 FN2 GT, Black Crystal Pearl, Factory LSD

- Purchased completely standard back in May so only owned it for a few months. Had 29k on the clock in May, now on 30k as its a weekend/track car.

Work/Modifications so far ...

- Adjustable Koni's on the rear (painted black for an OEM feel)

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- Eibach progressive springs all round

- New YUASA 400A battery

- 2nd Set of FN2 alloys, refurbed in Dark Shadow Chrome

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- New Michelin PS4's for the refurbed alloys (for daily use / wet track days)

- Part worn Potenza's on the original alloys for the track

- Custom 80mm CAI to the lower bumper and RamAir silicone intake (removed resonator and stock intake pipes)

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- Skunk2 thermal intake gasket

- K&N Panel Filter

- Valve clearances done

- New iridium plugs

- FRSU (Eibach camber bolts)

- Oil change (Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40)

- New Bosch wipers

- Refurbed Rear Beam, with new wheel bearing kits, new ABS sensors, new bolts and new PowerFlex Purple Polybushes

from this ...

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to this ...

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- RenaultSport Brembos (with new seals) and standard Brembo discs/pads all round for the moment (front discs are 320 x 28 )

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- Mopped and ceramic coated (Gtechniq CSL then C2 on top of that the following week)

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- FD2 oil pump and Clockwise Motion baffle fitted

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- Refurbed EP3 gear knob and alacantara gaiter

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- Depo oil pressure/temp gauge fitted and wired in through the firewall

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- TO-DO, Oil filter sandwich plate, short HAMP filter and Mishimoto magnetic sump plug to be fitted in a couple of weeks at GrinSpeed

- TO-DO, Flashpro - Running an etune at the moment but taking it to Chris over at EFI in the next few weeks all being well. Was showing 212 bhp on his dyno but was running a bit lean from around 7000 rpm.

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- TO-DO, TRS harnesses and eyebolts

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- TO-DO, Front fog vents

Got more to do but got most of the essentials done for the track so happy with the progress. Will keep this thread updated for anyone that's interested :smt023
 
How much did the fd2 pump and clockwise sump cost you inc fitting? Do you really think it’s necessary?


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How much did the fd2 pump and clockwise sump cost you inc fitting? Do you really think it’s necessary?


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How much did the fd2 pump and clockwise sump cost you inc fitting? Do you really think it’s necessary?


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Its going on track so I wanted the extra safety of a baffled sump. So while the sump is off it made sense to get the FD2 pump done as it's tried and tested and a highly rated mod.

Costs can mount up, £400 for the oil pump kit, £200 for the baffle, £325 for labour .... then you have oil and potentially timing chain and tensioners. I was doing an oil change anyway and timing chain and tensioners were spot on as it's low mileage.

If it was a daily and on the motorway a lot I'd probably think twice about the oil pump for comfort.

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great looking build with some choice mods.

what is the advantage of the FD2 oil pump? More flow?

Is that a mod to just FN2's or will it work on an EP3 as well (seeing as they are the same engine, I would assume so).
 
They changed the oil pump on the FN2 and added a 4/5kg balance shaft to keep things nice and quiet ... by swapping this out the engine spins up quicker throughout the whole rev range especially top end on high cam.

EP3's have a similar pump to the FD2 already I think so no need/benefit as far as I'm aware.

I'm no expert but that's how I understand it.

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Sandwich plate and HAMP short filter now fitted ...

1st sensor - Oil pressure
Idle when fully warmed up showing about 1.5 bar \ 22 psi
Full throttle full warmed up showing about 5.9 bar \ 85 psi

2nd sensor - Oil temp
Consistently between 85-90 deg C on the motorway and in traffic. I didn't check my water temp but previously in similar conditions it runs around 88/90 mark

3rd sensor - Under bonnet temp
Rather than use the 3rd sensor for another water temp reading, I decided to put this right near the stock intake box so I can see my under bonnet temp which could be quite useful on track

Then straight from Grinspeed over to EFI to get the map done ...

Ambient was around 18 deg C.

Did a few runs on the stock map first to get a baseline. That came out around 208 bhp.

Then did a few runs on my 'etune' to get another baseline and that came out around 210 bhp.

Chris mapped it from the stock map so we know its spot on and managed to squeeze 215 bhp from it top end which is pretty much what I was expecting. He said he started to get back pressure at the top end so had to back it off as the exhaust started to restrict it.

All looks good now and I can be confident giving it some beans on the track now with the AFR nailed down :)

BLACK line - EFI map
RED line - etune
BLUE line - Stock (with mods)
FAINT BLUE line - Stock (approx without mods)

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Surprised how rich the stock map is ...

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If you need your car mapping, go and see Chris at EFI, really nice guy and takes time to explain what he is doing and why.
 
A few more bits completed.

Back seats removed, spare wheel removed and TRS harness fitted.

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The eye bolt next to the centre console was a squeeze, but it just fit without 1mm to spare! ...

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Door side ...

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Could only get 1 bolt in the rear, which sits in the seatbelt location hole. I've left my seatbelt in anyway, the harness is only to keep me pinned to seat really.

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The compromise is that the drivers seat only goes this far forward now ...

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All nice and tidy ... and a bit louder :) ...

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You need a harness bar bud to lift those harnesses high enough. If they’re too low, which they most likely are right now, you’re risking spinal injuries in a crash.


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You need a harness bar bud to lift those harnesses high enough. If they’re too low, which they most likely are right now, you’re risking spinal injuries in a crash.


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Thanks for the advice. I had looked at the angles and TRS state 10 to 45 deg (with 10 being preferred).

I know its not ideal (hence I'll be using my normal seat belt most of the time), I just wanted a harness to stop me sliding around on track.

Trying to keep the car as close to OEM as possible ... as in I want to keep the standard seats, be able to easily remove the harness and throw the rear seats back in quickly.

Is a harness bar welded in ... or can you get a bolt in of some kind?
 
I think Tegiwa do a bolted in version that fits in the OEM seatbelt position by your shoulder.


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Harness back in its box until I get a seat and harness bar sorted ... didnt even realise the harness holes on a standard seat are just for show .. thanks for the advice @NYA

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Back at Grinspeed tomorrow for a couple of small jobs, gearbox oil change and fuel filter change (dont think either have ever been done on it) ...

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Once its back going to look at ducting for the front brakes. The black scoops with the black bumper should look pretty good ... and I've got some black mesh for the inside hole ...

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No worries bud. It’s better to be safe than sorry ;)


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Back in business from my day at Curborough :) ...

from these ...

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to these ...

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£78 a corner from Costco and service was top notch as always. There were a few cars already in the bay but they fit them in for me and were done and dusted in about 30 mins ... rang me just as we were paying for our stuff in-store.

All set for Oulton Park in October now. It's an open pit so going to keep a close eye on pressures this time, I think that is what caused the damage on the dunlops, albeit they didnt go over 37 psi (which I know is a bit too high). Probably start them on 27 or so, do 10-15 mins, come back in and check them. I've been told to try and keep them around the 30 mark ... will probably ask around on the day and see what others do.

No real point getting NS-2R/AD08R/CUP 2 tyres until I can actually make use of them. Got a few lessons lined up at Oulton so can't wait now!
 
Just to join in on the whole harnesses topic. I'd never run them on a reclining seat after seeing what can happen. The harness will be putting too luch force on the back of the seat and it will snap at the reclining mechanism.

For track days you can either use the method of slide seat back, pull seat belt tight and lock it, then slide the seat forward. This pretensions it to hold you still.

Or you can use the clip things which hold the lap belt tight to the buckle to keep you planted. I've helpfully forgotten the name, CG lock, that's the one! These help loads as you just pull the belt nice and tight at the bottom.

Personally, I run a bucket seat and a seat belt. I'd only ever run harnesses with a fixed back bucket seat and a full cage. If the worst happens and you do roll it, you might need a bit of give to keep your head away from the collapsed roof and A pillar.

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Got the interior finally sorted ready for its first full track day later this week at Oulton Park.

So I wanted to lose as much weight as possible but retain the ability to put it back to stock quickly (< 1 hour). So no ripping out plastics and door cards etc etc. Decided to pull all the seats and replace the drivers seat with a lightweight bucket (non reclining). I've been on the look out for a decent 2nd hand kevlar seat but they are either pretty rough and/or pretty expensive.

Then I came across the Buddy Club 'Race Spec' seats which are just as light as the kevlar ones. Picked up a L size one for £200 in 'ok' condition. The bare shell weighed in @ 5.5kg and with the covers and foam @ 6.7kg. I'm 6ft, 14st, 34in waist and L size is perfect/snugg.

First up, remove the seats and sort the SRS cabling. Disconnected the negative from the battery, left for 15 mins, removed the seats. Pic of under the seat, the 2 yellow connectors are the SRS ones ...

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Next add the 4 resistors to each yellow connector. After a bit of research I went with some fused 3.6 ohm resistors. For £8 for 4, it really wasnt worth making my own up. What I did do was solder some pins on the end and shrink wrap them for a snugg fit in the connectors (didnt want to snip the connectors or tap the wire).

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I then taped up the connectors nice and tight, made a clean cut in the carpet and tucked the wires neatly away ...

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added a bit of velcro to stick the carpet back down and job done ...

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Once that was done, I reconnected the negative, turned the ignition on and crossed my fingers I didnt get an SRS light :) ... all good!

Next was to install the seat. It was a bit dirty and a bit smelly so stripped the covers, hand washed them, patched up some minor tears, patched up some of the foam with contact adhesive and put back together. This was coupled with an M2 adjustable seat rail which weighed in @ 4kg. Again, I'm 6ft and I have the rail fully back, I think anyone taller would struggle as there isnt much adjustment on the M2's.

In addition, I purchased a Civic Sport Mk8 seat belt receiver for £10 off ebay (no integrated air bag like the FN2 one) and connected this to the M2 rail too. End result ...

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The TRS harness is back in and the angle is approx 45 deg which is the maximum TRS recommend (10 deg is the ideal). I'm going to double check the angle just to be sure but the seat is now lower and further forward than the standard seat, so all looks good.

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In terms of final weight, after some research the official standard 'dry' weight is 1267kg ... confirmed by various posts \ actual weigh bridge tests. The standard seats weigh a combined 90.5 kg ...

OEM Front Driver Seat - 27.2kg
OEM Front Passanger Seat - 25.3kg
OEM Rear Seat (Larger part behind Driver) - 22kg
OEM Rear Seat (Smaller Part behind Passenger) - 16kg

The buddy club seat with rails is 10.7kg so I'm approx 80kg down taking it to a final dry weight of approx 1187kg. For reference, an EP3 with a full interior has as dry weight of 1204kg.

Should make it a bit more nimble, can't wait to try it out!
 
Small update as not a lot done due to the lovely weather.

Clutch fluid is now flushed and renewed with RBF 600 and new Bosch pollen filter dropped in ... so that is pretty much all the fluids and filters on the car done and dusted. I have to say the clutch felt instantly smoother/better after the change.

Fancy another track day before the end of the year but this weather is putting me off bothering. There were a shed load of red flags a couple of weeks back on a dry day, never mind it being cold and wet.

Obligatory pics from the last track day (didnt realise Javelin did free piccies)

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Looks brand new. Nice track pics :)

Only comment would be to have the harness mounts raised where they pass through the back of the seats.
 
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