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FK8 FK8 overheating

Is anyone else interested in getting one of these grilles for their FK8? As shown here: https://www.procivic.com/p/m/civic/pro-design-honeycomb-performance-mesh-grille.html

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They're about £230 delivered from America, and don't have the cutouts for our front parking sensors. I'm looking at getting one direct from their supplier in China, sending it to a manufacturer here and getting the parking sensor holes laser cut.

Trouble is, shipping from China is damned expensive - if I got a few grilles the overall cost would be greatly reduced. If I got 4 and had the sensor holes laser cut, I could deliver them to mainland UK for about £140 each. Would anyone else be interested in that?
 
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Yes I would be but not until January, I'm waiting to see if they do an updated car before spending any money on my one.
 
Sounds good to me as well, if the quality is good on them as I have seen some that "fit where they touch"?

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Agreed about quality, I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to stuff like that. I guess I'd just have to take the risk on it - in my experience the stuff coming out of China these days is pretty good.
 
As an aside, does anyone else have issues with the caliper paint after track work? My Brembo lettering is now yellow.
 
I took my FK8 to Spa this weekend, it was an absolutely epic track day and the car performed amazingly.

The only problem was with overheating - the coolant temperature warning light would come on after 10 mins of hard track use. The car would then have reduced power until it cooled down again. It was 22 degrees Celsius at about 70% humidity - warm, but nothing crazy.

I've seen plenty of posts on Civicx, but their climate is far hotter than here. I can't find much about it on this forum - has anyone else had overheating issues in similar conditions? If so, how did you cure it?

Out of interest how long did it take after the temperature gauge was pegged for the coolant light to come on?

I think the car is OK in 15 degrees or less with air con off - any more than that and I think it struggles
 
A few minutes, maybe 5 or so.

Thanks. When my gauge gets near the top I usually come off the track as performance has degraded a fair amount. I prefer colder track days out of peak season anyway, but it bugs me that the car isn't really designed for track work :D
 
Blimey, those calipers are ruined!

I did look into titanium brake pad shims a while ago, but I'm not convinced they would cure the issue. They would delay the transfer of heat for sure, but they're just another heat sink, so after a few laps they'll be up to the same temperature as the rest of the components. They'd also continue to put heat into your calipers after you stop.
 
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Blimey, those calipers are ruined!

I did look into titanium brake pad shims a while ago, but I'm not convinced they would cure the issue. They would delay the transfer of heat for sure, but they're just another heat sink, so after a few laps they'll be up to the same temperature as the rest of the components. They'd also continue to put heat into your calipers after you stop.

Said it from day 1, the brakes are great for road although far from perfect in my opinion, had mine smoking after an enthusiastic drive up Hartside, but simply not good enough for track. The car is too heavy, you need better calipers, discs, fluid and pads for track. I suspect but have no idea that some additional cooling is required too.
 
I would have to disagree Matt, with good fluid and decent pads I have not had any braking issues the fully floating discs I use are also very good and have improved cooling over stock.

I have never once had smoking or faded brakes, even at Cadwell or Rockingham.

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I would have to disagree Matt, with good fluid and decent pads I have not had any braking issues the fully floating discs I use are also very good and have improved cooling over stock.

I have never once had smoking or faded brakes, even at Cadwell or Rockingham.

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As you know I haven't tracked mine so, what I was referring to was factory set set up. It was promoted as a track focussed car but with the cooling issues and never having confidence in the brakes although better with decent pads it is disappointing. Be interesting to know how hot the brakes need to be to change the colour, you would expect Bremos to have very high temp paint.

I do think with a track tyre you will find the limitations, once Honda sort out what they are doing I will hopefully get an opportunity to get a car on track.
 
As you know I haven't tracked mine so, what I was referring to was factory set set up. It was promoted as a track focussed car but with the cooling issues and never having confidence in the brakes although better with decent pads it is disappointing. Be interesting to know how hot the brakes need to be to change the colour, you would expect Bremos to have very high temp paint.

I do think with a track tyre you will find the limitations, once Honda sort out what they are doing I will hopefully get an opportunity to get a car on track.
I did one full day at Donington with full oem setup and the stock brakes worked fine for me, even 2 up. I did however leave all TC systems on and I went through a full set of rear pads, the fronts used about 60%.

The guided cooling from the front bumper seems to do the trick, well it does for my style of driving, but my calipers are now burgundy in colour.

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I would have to disagree Matt, with good fluid and decent pads I have not had any braking issues the fully floating discs I use are also very good and have improved cooling over stock.
Agreed, I've never tried standard pads but with Pagid RS29 pads (standard everything else, including fluid) I've never had any issues on track. In fact I'd say they feel no less confidence inspiring than my dad's 996 GT3 on track, which has massive brakes, Castrol SRF fluid and proper cooling on all four corners.

Said it from day 1, the brakes are great for road although far from perfect in my opinion, had mine smoking after an enthusiastic drive up Hartside, but simply not good enough for track. The car is too heavy, you need better calipers, discs, fluid and pads for track. I suspect but have no idea that some additional cooling is required too.
You can overheat brakes on track by 'road braking' - e.g. longer braking periods at half pressure rather than shorter 100% ABS braking periods. Doesn't leave them much time to cool between stops, might be what you experienced?

There's also the possibility that it was the first time your brakes got properly hot, in which case pads being bedded might smoke a little and feel spongy. Once cooled, they'd be fine on future sessions though.
 
Agreed, I've never tried standard pads but with Pagid RS29 pads (standard everything else, including fluid) I've never had any issues on track. In fact I'd say they feel no less confidence inspiring than my dad's 996 GT3 on track, which has massive brakes, Castrol SRF fluid and proper cooling on all four corners.


You can overheat brakes on track by 'road braking' - e.g. longer braking periods at half pressure rather than shorter 100% ABS braking periods. Doesn't leave them much time to cool between stops, might be what you experienced?

There's also the possibility that it was the first time your brakes got properly hot, in which case pads being bedded might smoke a little and feel spongy. Once cooled, they'd be fine on future sessions though.
Good point re track vs road braking, I nearly always use my brakes on track with the wheels on the verge of locking/threshold of ABS activation, can't do left foot braking with power on the stock CTR but happy the oem setup is so balanced chassis wise.

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