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K20a cams in a K20A2?

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78
Hey,

Looking into putting K20a cams in my K20A2. Current setup is: RBC intake manifold, Injen CAI, DC sports exhaust manifold, 3" exhaust and a Kpro.

Are they "drop in" or do I need to change anything else?
How much power will I get from putting in K20a cams?
Low-end/mid-end/ high-end?
Is it worth putting K20a cams in or should I just go with something like Skunk2 drop in cams?

Thanks in advance!
 
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They drop in, they need a re-tune.

They're a bit more top-end with a slight loss at mid range.

I had them (albeit from an FD2) in mine, they're not really worth it IMO. If you're going to cam it, get something a bit more lairy.
 
They drop in, they need a re-tune.

They're a bit more top-end with a slight loss at mid range.

I had them (albeit from an FD2) in mine, they're not really worth it IMO. If you're going to cam it, get something a bit more lairy.

Alright, then I'll just go with something like Skunk2 drop in cams or Drag Cartel. Thanks for answer!
 
Yeah the JDM cams dont give loads more so not really worth it but they are an OEM part so are straight in and reliable.

If you are going down cam route for gains use something else. The TDI north ones are supposed to be good and they are drop in. Drop in cams wont give a great deal because they are designed to be not so harsh with oem valvetrain.
 
Yeah the JDM cams dont give loads more so not really worth it but they are an OEM part so are straight in and reliable.

If you are going down cam route for gains use something else. The TDI north ones are supposed to be good and they are drop in. Drop in cams wont give a great deal because they are designed to be not so harsh with oem valvetrain.

Yeah, I'll just skip the JDM cams and go for something else. I don't really fancy changing to other valve springs and titanium retainers so I started looking at drop in cams instead.

I saw the TDI ones but they are pretty much double the price of the Skunk2 ones. Don't really feel like spending that much to be honest haha ;)
 
Skunk2 ones have a really harsh ramp rate. This puts strain on your chain, tensioner, valve springs and collets. For drop in cams, they are the least drop in of them all.

I had Skunk2s, albeit Stage 1s, in my first FN2, and needed a new tensioner and chain when it got back from a week at Spa and Nurburgring. I'd already been warned about the springs and had done them.

I then went to the TDi-North cams helping test their development ones that ended up morphing into their drop in cams.

The newer Skunk2 DICs that have been released since have made really disappointing numbers.
Tdi-North's cams make more power, don't need any of the aforementioned upgrades and are a true DIC. They may be more expensive but they'll give you better results.

However as mentioned, all need custom remapping and you need to have done all of the usual breathing mods to see the benefit of any cam upgrades.

Depending on mileage, particularly if your engine is a bit leggy, then with a cam upgrade it may be shrewd to replace the chain and tensioner and inspect the guides while you are at it.
 
Skunk2 ones have a really harsh ramp rate. This puts strain on your chain, tensioner, valve springs and collets. For drop in cams, they are the least drop in of them all.

I had Skunk2s, albeit Stage 1s, in my first FN2, and needed a new tensioner and chain when it got back from a week at Spa and Nurburgring. I'd already been warned about the springs and had done them.

I then went to the TDi-North cams helping test their development ones that ended up morphing into their drop in cams.

The newer Skunk2 DICs that have been released since have made really disappointing numbers.
Tdi-North's cams make more power, don't need any of the aforementioned upgrades and are a true DIC. They may be more expensive but they'll give you better results.

However as mentioned, all need custom remapping and you need to have done all of the usual breathing mods to see the benefit of any cam upgrades.

Depending on mileage, particularly if your engine is a bit leggy, then with a cam upgrade it may be shrewd to replace the chain and tensioner and inspect the guides while you are at it.

The Skunk2 doesnt seem worth buying then... I dont really want to spend the £1000 on new TDi-north cams so I'll just wait if they pop up on the used market.

I will get it mapped and the parts Ive already bought to put on the car next season is: RBC intake manifold, DC sports exhaust manifold, Injen CAI, 3" exhaust and a Kpro V4 for mapping. Should I also buy a 70mm throttle body while Im at it or wont that make a difference when having the cams fitted?

The cars at 151.000km (around 95.000 miles), maybe its a bit too soon to change the chain and tensioner?
 
Tb wont give you loads, maybe 5bhp but if you want to go down that route may aswel get the 70mm RBC too if you havent already.
I know you have an RBC but you havent said if its the 70mm version.

Chain is changed around 100k so while your doing bits you may as well do that too with new tensioner and guides.


Sent from my LG-M200 using Tapatalk
 
Tb wont give you loads, maybe 5bhp but if you want to go down that route may aswel get the 70mm RBC too if you havent already.
I know you have an RBC but you havent said if its the 70mm version.

Chain is changed around 100k so while your doing bits you may as well do that too with new tensioner and guides.


Sent from my LG-M200 using Tapatalk

If I end up not buying cams I wont buy a TB as Ive been told it doesnt make a difference but if I buy cams I'll just buy a TB if it will make a difference.

The RBC I have laying around is a standard cut RBC so not the 70mm. But I can just sell the RBC I have now and buy the 70mm version if it will make the car flow better.

Then I'll just change the chain, tensioner etc too while Im at it :)
 
The throttle body makes 1bhp and 1lbft of torque when tested back to back on a dyno by j cal.

So I certainly wouldn't buy one as a performance upgrade, as a replacement then yes it would be a good option.


I had almost the same set up and it made 243bhp from memory, drove really well. Then I fitted a Rotrex and had 360bhp for a year. Now I've gone back to NA again, this time with a skunk 2 ultra inlet manifold, so I'll know what that does on top of an rbc in a few weeks!


Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk
 
I have k100, a 2.5" catback, a tegiwa m and the RRC manifold from the fd2 in my ep3. I got 231bhp and 156lbft when remapped. Revs to around 8900rpm. It's fun.
 
The throttle body makes 1bhp and 1lbft of torque when tested back to back on a dyno by j cal.

So I certainly wouldn't buy one as a performance upgrade, as a replacement then yes it would be a good option.


I had almost the same set up and it made 243bhp from memory, drove really well. Then I fitted a Rotrex and had 360bhp for a year. Now I've gone back to NA again, this time with a skunk 2 ultra inlet manifold, so I'll know what that does on top of an rbc in a few weeks!


Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Yeah, not looking to buy the TB for performance gains but maybe as a replacement so the car flows better when putting the cams on :)
 
Skunk2 ones have a really harsh ramp rate. This puts strain on your chain, tensioner, valve springs and collets. For drop in cams, they are the least drop in of them all.

I had Skunk2s, albeit Stage 1s, in my first FN2, and needed a new tensioner and chain when it got back from a week at Spa and Nurburgring. I'd already been warned about the springs and had done them.

I then went to the TDi-North cams helping test their development ones that ended up morphing into their drop in cams.

The newer Skunk2 DICs that have been released since have made really disappointing numbers.
Tdi-North's cams make more power, don't need any of the aforementioned upgrades and are a true DIC. They may be more expensive but they'll give you better results.

However as mentioned, all need custom remapping and you need to have done all of the usual breathing mods to see the benefit of any cam upgrades.

Depending on mileage, particularly if your engine is a bit leggy, then with a cam upgrade it may be shrewd to replace the chain and tensioner and inspect the guides while you are at it.

What valve train did you run with these cams loxy?
 
I stuck with OEM collets, but went for Skunk2 Pro Series dual valve springs with Skunk2 retainers. Wherever that car is, it will still have them in...
 
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