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2008 Honda Civic FN2 Type R

interesting, but I got 215,216,217 on a standard 2011 FN2.
only mod was an HKS panel filter using BP Ultimate fuel and dyno'd on a very cold day.
 
interesting, but I got 215,216,217 on a standard 2011 FN2.
only mod was an HKS panel filter using BP Ultimate fuel and dyno'd on a very cold day.

Nice - can I ask how / where you got your remap?... im trying to understand if my information is legit, as everyone says you have to use the Hondata thing.
 
Dropped the car back at Honda on Monday - they no quibble agreed to respray my rear 2 alloys that were damaged during the tyre change, cant fault them
 
Nice - can I ask how / where you got your remap?... im trying to understand if my information is legit, as everyone says you have to use the Hondata thing.

didn't get a remap, car is standard.

Dyno was at East Sussex Tuning in Hailsham.
 
Here is my 2008 Honda Civic FN2 Type R in Milano Red, had the car a few weeks now and really liking it, its my first Honda and first experience of a VTEC engine! Previous cars were family Volvos, so this is a welcome move back to a hot hatch for me (previously had 3 RenaultSport Clios) the interior of the Honda is another level compared to the Renaults.

Nice looking car Montana :cool:

I had a RS Clio 172, then an EP3, then a RS Clio 182 Cup, then a FN2, then a RS Clio 200 :D

Yep the interior of the Civic is a class apart.
Even compared to my 2012 RS 200 (Although the Recaros in the 200 are the business)

Nice to hear you are enjoying it and great work on getting the paintwork done under warranty at Honda (and repairing the scratches to the wheels!)

I replaced the drop links on my car with Moog items from ECP which also have a 2 yr warranty.
Came in pretty cheap too compared to genuine items which are daft money.
 
Nice looking car Montana :cool:

I had a RS Clio 172, then an EP3, then a RS Clio 182 Cup, then a FN2, then a RS Clio 200 :D

Yep the interior of the Civic is a class apart.
Even compared to my 2012 RS 200 (Although the Recaros in the 200 are the business)

Nice to hear you are enjoying it and great work on getting the paintwork done under warranty at Honda (and repairing the scratches to the wheels!)

I replaced the drop links on my car with Moog items from ECP which also have a 2 yr warranty.
Came in pretty cheap too compared to genuine items which are daft money.

Cheers, i briefly had a Corsa VXR with recaros and liked them, the FN2 are no worse than those IMHO.

The el cheapo droplinks i got with mine came with a 2 year guarantee also - lets see how long they last.
 
Cheers, i briefly had a Corsa VXR with recaros and liked them, the FN2 are no worse than those IMHO.

The el cheapo droplinks i got with mine came with a 2 year guarantee also - lets see how long they last.

Agreed, the FN2 are actually a fair bit more comfortable than the Recaros. I think both the Corsa VXR and the Clio 197/200 use Recaro Sportster CS

I know what you mean with the drop links.
I figure I wont have my car before the 2 yr guarantee expires, so if they actually last until I sell it, it will be a result :lol:
 
B-pipe replacement was halted at the weekend due to rounded cat to B-pipe nuts;

Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

need to get it on a ramp to give me more access and tackle them again (armed with Irwin bolt extractors, dremel and a blow torch) any tips appreciated
 
I recently had this problem on my ep3, I ended up drilling off the nuts. Access is awkward especially on the road on axles stands, if it was on a ramp things would take half the time ;)
 
I recently had this problem on my ep3, I ended up drilling off the nuts. Access is awkward especially on the road on axles stands, if it was on a ramp things would take half the time ;)

Did you drill or dremel/hacksaw?

You can see on the last image the hanger is in the way regardless of which tool used , not sure if EP3 is that same. Combined with the fact the studs need to remain intact , I don’t fancy having to replace those as it will involve removing the cat I think.


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It is awkward but I drilled into the nut a few times carefully, then knocked it with a chisel and hammer to split the nut.
 
B-pipe replacement - attempt 2
Managed to remove the top nut with a 6 sided socket hammered on
Bottom nut removed with the help of a 13mm bolt extractor
Remaining nut was too rounded so began cutting the nut to weaken it, ran out of time and needed to order a 11/12mm bolt extractor
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

B-pipe replacement - attempt 3
Armed with a larger set of bolt extractors
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

I successfully removed the bas***d nut - happy
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

Old B-pipe removed, and the majority of the exhaust doughnut was left behind, managed to clean most of it up
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

Silenced pipe / unsilenced pipe - having silencer removed makes a big difference to sound
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
'new' pipe is mild steel (OEM) - if i get 12 months out of it will be happy.

Wire brushed & ddded a bit of HT silicone to the B-pipe to cat join
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

Next issue, provided exhaust doughnut was too small! (should be 57mm) Had to reassemble with a cut gasket to get me on the road, was blowing pretty bad.
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

B-pipe replacement - attempt 4
Following day i picked up the correct gasket, fitted this to complete the job - happy to get there in the end - now have a nice quiet Civic.

To Confirm:
OEM cat studs require M10 x 1.25 pitch nuts

If you plan (or are forced to)to replace the OEM cat studs then you will need some M10 x 35mm bolts/M10 nuts (any pitch). But ideally the cat will need to be removed and placed in a vice to remove the studs with a hammer.
 
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Lost a H7 dipped beam bulb
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

Went for the finest £5.99 worth of Eurolec replacements
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

replaced drivers side
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

replaced both sides
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

As you can see no difference noted, the bulbs were a mixed bag, drivers was Osram and Passenger was Neolux

Currently chasing a boot leak, any ideas how to remove the left/right hand side boot compartments?
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr
 
Literally having the same issue right now! The whole panel has to come off as far as I know. That’s how I removed mine. I started from the door end. Removed the rear seats. Undo the seatbelt anchor point at the bottom and then pull door seal away slightly and worked from bottom corner behind the front seat. It gets a bit fiddly towards the back but just be patient with it and where possible get your arm behind the panel so as not to over bend it as they can split/snap.

Also depending on which side or if removing both sides don’t forget to unplug the boot light.

As for the leak the usual places are rear light/cluster or from where the spoiler attaches to window.

Mine was neither of these and was leaking in between seams and through the plastic grommets on the rear slam panel. I read there is a seal behind the rear bumper and this is where the problem seems to be with mine as it’s coming in through a few places on both sides from low down.

I gave up at the point I realised the bumper needs to come off as my house is already full of interior panels so I’ve asked my local dealer to remove bumper and resolve the issue
 
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Located the source of the boot leak, the little rubber grommet seen here
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

Seems to be getting in with water around the rear light/bumper
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

Pushed it to check fit and it popped off and disappeared, dont fancy pulling the rear bumper off to retrieve
Untitled by Montana BI, on Flickr

anyone know where/what i need to order and where from?
 
Since it will be covered by the internal trim why not get a piece of suitable plastic and glue it in place with silicone sealant?
 
Since it will be covered by the internal trim why not get a piece of suitable plastic and glue it in place with silicone sealant?

Good point , may well resort to that. Was planning on using silicone on the new part anyway.


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