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FK2 Oil level raised above max

Maybe in the thread starter I should have said that I've had the car for 14 months and during this time the oil level was always up to max never went down or up. That's why a sudden rise gave me my concern.
Thanks again.
 
So if we take some oil out tomorrow how much do I save for a lab sample? and what would the approx cost be.?
Many thanks.
£33 for a kit with pre paid envelope etc Inc anaylsis and 60ml bottle to fill.

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First of all apologies as my following explanation is quite lengthy,but I'm sure you will find it of interest as we are owners of the fk2.
Just to let you all know I had the oil, lab tested and the findings came back with there was a slight ingress of fuel in the oil, and said that the viscosity had lowered slightly. In addition there was a full report on what else was suspended in the oil, this was called a spectrochemical analysis and the particals and chemicals were measured in parts per million (ppm) what is analysed/looked for are metals and chemicals in the oil.Things like iron particles ,chromium,molybdenum,copper,lead,tin,nickel,silicon, sodium,boron,vanadium,insoluble matter(soot),calcium, phosphorus,zinc, magnesium and barium.
They are looked for and their amounts if any are found reported in (ppm) and all are relative to a modern engine.Its parts and bi-products of combustion and of course additives that are put in by the manufacturer of the oil. The important thing is how many (ppm) of the above are found,in your car's oil will tell you the condition of your engine. I discussed the findings of my test with the technician and all readings except for two were good .The two were 1. A slight loss of viscosity due fuel ingress in the oil and was still ok to drive . 2. Silicon level raised (basically dust) indicating a need for attention to the air
intake filter. I did check the engine air filter and yes it was ready for changing which I did straight away.
I naturally assumed it was checked at the last service. One to remember for the future. It just shows that the test did highlight 2 important things in an engine and I think there certainly is a link between the contaminated air filter and slight ingress of fuel in the oil as a air filter with lots of dust in itcan cause the engine to run rich.
Since the report I have given the fk2 a blood transfusion with 5.4 litres of Castrol Edge Professional H
0w-20 fully synthetic oil. Direct fuel turbo engines are known for fuel ingress in the oil some very slight like mine and some more,causing the level on the dipstick to rise. Before starting this thread I did look online to see if any fk2 type R's were reported with this problem but didn't read of any. That's why I asked you all . When cold starting a dfi turbo engine you need to get the engine up to temperature as soon as possible, what's not good for the engine on a cold start is idling for long periods, idling on the drive only puts rich petrol through which can stick to the engines cold bores and mix with the oil and will eventually find its way to the crankcase.If you do lots of short journeys is not good for the engine where only a few miles are covered and the engine doesn't get up to temperature. To help any build up of fuel in the oil you regularly need to go for a long run say 100 miles and drive without revving high in a non sporty mode so that the oil gets hot and should evaporate any fuel in the oil.
Regards Fred.
 
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I'm sure the manual tells you to check the oil approx. 3 mins after the engine has been running (it says the best time to check is when refuelling). No idea why the level would climb though, sorry.

I don't understand this as I've read also this in the handbook.Surely the oil takes a lot longer to drain back into the sump. I have always checked the oil when the engine is cold or let it stand for about an hour after it's been run.
Regards Fred.
 
It doesn't take long for the majority of oil to run down into the sump. Say 10 mins max. The difference being cold, warm or hot is very little really and certainly not enough to worry about.

That's interesting regarding your oil findings, I'm sure it has put your mind at ease. I'm always surprised these tests aren't carried out more frequently, especially on track cars that have a harder time. When you're putting 70 quids worth of oil in, changing it too frequently could cost a lot more money than a sample analysis to see the condition.



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Very informative post Fred :D

Many thanks for taking the time to type it up =D>

My current workplace (where I've been for over 15 years) is probably a 3 mile round-trip so I do countless short journeys but have never had a problem so far :creep:
 
Very informative post Fred :D

Many thanks for taking the time to type it up =D>

My current workplace (where I've been for over 15 years) is probably a 3 mile round-trip so I do countless short journeys but have never had a problem so far :creep:
ShortJourneys are classed as severe use and Honda Recommends to change the oil a lot sooner. I use my car mainly at weekends and sometimes during the week. Up to the slight ingress of fuel in the oil I changed It yearly and like you had no problem. But after the report I just decided I had to take that oil out and put new in. Of late though I might be guilty of idling the car on the drive too long and not driving the car straight off after around 30 seconds when the oil had circulated. Even though the guage says coolant is up to temperature I give it more time to ensure the oil is well up to temperature before flexing the cars muscles..I"ve also read recently that its good every so often to take the engine up to the red line to clear and gunk thats around the valves. Glad you've not had any problems and keep enjoying the Type R .
Regards Fred
 
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Not all bad Fred as said some dilution is normal in modern day cars,
6mth changes will continue for me then, or go up a grade, I also recommend switching the stop start off every time, I'm sure this don't help cars
 
Not all bad Fred as said some dilution is normal in modern day cars,
6mth changes will continue for me then, or go up a grade, I also recommend switching the stop start off every time, I'm sure this don't help cars

Yes i've switched the stop start off from day one as initially i kept forgetting to do it as i'm a young guy in my late 60's Lol. Then you pull up then engine switches off and its a pain crawling forward in traffic queues.Plus I know the fk2 as well as oil cooled its water cooled but I think you have to be aware after blasting the turbo to as you nearing your journey to tone it down to let the temperatures come down. I don't understand when you day go up a grade? Do you mean oil?.I think the same as you and will be also changing my oil every 6 months from now on. As the K20c1 engine evolves I think Honda will overcome the problems with dfi turbo engines, Toyota and a few more manufacturers have introduced into their engines an injection system that injects fuel over the intake valves and stops any carbon build up. Eventually I suppose we'll have Type R's with engines like in the new Nsx as technology moves forward.
Regards Fred.
 
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