• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

FN2 Bleeding clutch fluid - has anyone done it?

Messages
24
Had a go at accessing the clutch bleeding nipple - pushed the intake hose out of the way - yeah right.
No way I could safely access it so I put everything back :(

Plan B: poor man's fluid change - used a syringe to suck out the existing sludge just below 'MIN' and added fresh brake fluid up to 'MAX'
Will repeat a few times later on, hopefully eventually most of the old fluid will have been diluted away. At least I won't have to risk skin off my knuckles.

Anyone have any alternative access method?
Yesterday I had the undertray off and couldn't find a way from there either. Honda have done a good job of hiding it away:mad:
 
Honda dealers have fixed price of £40 to do this.

what value do you place on your time & knuckles?
 
Ah, but do they actually access the nipple?
I know of the practice where they just change the reservoir fluid and tell the customer all has been done. I am of very suspicious nature.

And don't get me started about wiping filters (and other parts) to look like they've changed them. Or pumping some of the oil out from the dipstick hole and call it a job well done.

For anything that is fiddly, there is a shortcut
 
I just used a socket and extension on the nipple and drained it into a rag. I was able to completely drain the reservoir this way. Access didn't seem that bad?
 
First I let the tank drop until about a 1/4 full; if you let it go dry you will end up fighting a full bleed. Not terrible, but why make work for yourself. Then I kept the level topped up until I was content enough fluid had flowed through and nipped it up. I'm sure you know this already but I'll say it in case any we have any amateur mechanics read this in the future; don't forget a bleed nipple is effectively a hollow bolt so doesn't have as much strength as you might expect, don't shear it off when you tighten it back up!

No need to pump, the circuit is open to the top tank when the pedal is in its resting state. As long as the top tank doesn't go dry you shouldn't get air.

The fluid you need to change is actually in the line and slave cylinder, so if you are having issues you do really need to do the above; just changing the fluid the way you have won't quite manage it.
 
I just picked up a facelift milano red with 87k last week. Changing the clutch fluid was the first job I did on it.
The reservoir was half empty but had turned to what looked like green /grey sludge :eek:

I had to clean out all the reservoir first before topping up and starting to bleed.

I found I got good access by unpopping the clips and removing the under bonnet radiator to grill plastic cover.
Then disconnected to 2 electrical loom sockets near the bleed nipple to gain room for the spanner.

I used some silicone hose off the bleed nipple down past the undertray into an empty jam jar, and then just bled it the same as brakes, with one person on the pedal and one on the spanner.
I used rbf600 fluid and it went lovely and clear after pushing about 200ml through the system.
Clutch feels so much better now. ;)
 
Back
Top