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EP3 Clutch delay valve removal?

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128
Another idea having been reading; Quite a few US users report a much nicer / more direct clutch action with the deletion of the clutch delay valve. - Unsurprising as they seem to be universally hated.

Has anyone done it here? - I don't have any real issue with the gearchange at the moment, but I'll take direct if I can have it (being a "Free" mod too!)
 
I have read about this also, but 'if it aint broke dont fix it' comes to mind..' but agree if it sharpens it, it would be welcome. I have my remap booked this Saturday...so who knows, this could be the start of a very slippery slope to modding obsession...!
 
i thought about doing it, but went with the acuity shifter bushings instead, and they're great imo. they make the gear changes feel just that little more precise :D

speaking of 'free' mods though.... i did do the ACT sensor mod and the car did feel slightly more responsive after imo too :mrgreen:
 
i thought about doing it, but went with the acuity shifter bushings instead, and they're great imo. they make the gear changes feel just that little more precise :D

speaking of 'free' mods though.... i did do the ACT sensor mod and the car did feel slightly more responsive after imo too :mrgreen:

Is this the one where you remove a bit of plastic around the sensor? Can you give us more details if so :D
 
I've already got a short shifter, bushings and a Skunk2 - polishing a diamond here

Looking at videos of (other) cars with the delete, it seems up make a very noticeable difference.

I'm warming up to the idea - don't have a spare slave cylinder though so I'm a little apprehensive - new ones are £120 here, apparently they're only $80 in the US!

This ACT mod does sound interesting though

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Same issue with the ACT sensor, I did some searching via the Honda part number. The prices where double that in the US, but I managed to find the bosch part number (as they make the sensor) this gave me loads more options. I purchased one from an eBay company for about £25.
 
Is this the one where you remove a bit of plastic around the sensor? Can you give us more details if so :D

It's an easy job Fan, just look for fartherpain's guide on the civx forum. (He has photos and a great write up)
I modified the new sensor as this was also touching, then simply swapped them around (just go steady and slow with a craft knife)
 
You know there are great sleeping pills on the market, or I find a bottle of scotch does pretty much the same thing :lol:

Have to say i was up at 6 am though straight on the forums as couldn't sleep...little bit excited about my road trip tomorrow up into covid land for my dyno session sat
 
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I didnt notice any change with CDV removal. Acuity bushes helped a bit. Xtreme SMF clutch kit made the most difference for me and i've not had 2nd gear lockout since, although i am seeing shift issues (4th exclusively iirc) on track. I cant tell if it's heat or mount as the issue since i was only getting it down the start/finish straight. i'm swaying towards mounts since all other shifts into 4th are mid-corner or lower down the rev range are ok
 
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I didnt notice any change with CDV removal. Acuity bushes helped a bit. Xtreme SMF clutch kit made the most difference for me and i've not had 2nd gear lockout since, although i am seeing shift issues (4th exclusively iirc) on track. I cant tell if it's heat or mount as the issue since i was only getting it down the start/finish straight. i'm swaying towards mounts since all other shifts into 4th are mid-corner or lower down the rev range.

Combination of both most likely.
 
i'm swaying towards mounts since all other shifts into 4th are mid-corner or lower down the rev range are ok

Combination of both most likely.

edited original post. I guess it could be a mix of both. I forgot to take my temp gun last trackday to see what the gearbox temps are. 4th gear issues are always on the start/finish straight and never anywhere else at donington. I'm not sure if the LSD is working harder and adding enough heat through the Esses/Goddards than anywhere else
 
Hmm, Are you still using standard MTF-3 or have you gone for a different fluid? Perhaps something with a touch more hot viscosity would suit better for track use given you don't have the trans cooler of the FK8.
 
4th gear issues are always on the start/finish straight and never anywhere else at donington.
Agreed I also have occasional issues shifting into 4th on track, or prolonged fast road drives. No issues with any other gears or during normal driving - it only seems to be when the car is very hot.

Gearbox oil with a higher hot viscosity is a good suggestion, I know some in the US have reported improvements when changing to a different gearbox oil.
 
Hmm, Are you still using standard MTF-3 or have you gone for a different fluid? Perhaps something with a touch more hot viscosity would suit better for track use given you don't have the trans cooler of the FK8.

Agreed I also have occasional issues shifting into 4th on track, or prolonged fast road drives. No issues with any other gears or during normal driving - it only seems to be when the car is very hot.

Gearbox oil with a higher hot viscosity is a good suggestion, I know some in the US have reported improvements when changing to a different gearbox oil.

not noticed much between the honda mtf3 and motul gear 300 fluid on track. With yet more brake cooling issues on my FK2 (5th? time lucky now!) i noticed the OEM cooler is a 4 row with simple barbed ends so should be pretty easy to replace with something bigger. Barb to -AN seems most likely. Although theres only a fairly small scoop in the undertray to provide airflow i'm very tempted to add a bigger scoop before cooler replacement. i assume theres an oil pump in the gearbox to get it flow the oil through the cooler and i'd hope it'd have enough flow so if i were to relocate to the grill area it'd still perform. Not sure whats possible with the oil>water cooler on the FK8 though.
 
Hmm, as far as I'm aware it's splash lubricated, part of the reason why it takes a little while to loosen up when starting cold.

May be able to find it in a parts diagram somewhere? Haven't seen a mention in service manuals either despite briefly looking.

Didn't realise there was a standard cooler on the FK2; thought that was just the FK8!

Larger scoop is probably a good place to start, but may need to balance the outflow a little to avoid increasing the underbonnet pressure?

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fk2 is hidden in plain view! - on the end of the 2x 'U' rubber hoses in the following picture. Certainly not the biggest cooler but probably ample for cooling things on the road. theres a opening on the undertray to direct some air to it but it's not up to much.
the FK8 oil>water cooler sits above the clutch flex line? Clearly honda went to a water cooler for a reason on the '8.

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i'd say track use along with the LSD is adding copious amounts of heat it just can't handle. Theres a new seller on ebay whos doing custom 3d printed ducts but has premade ones that look perfect size (200w x 150l x 40h) so i've decided i'll be grabbing one of those and use some brake temp stickers to catch that 110-150c range to see whats going on.
 
That's very interesting - I wonder if it's a cost / production efficiency measure; I'd expect the seperate air cooled radiator to be more expensive than just bunging it in the water loop. - Probably another reason for the cooling issues that people are having, with the heat not being compartmentalised on the FK8.

I'll do some more digging to see what I can find out about the lubrication system on the FK transmissions - Would've thought convective would be rather inefficient.

As an aside, Did a brake and clutch bleed the other day with RBF600. Clutch feels a little nicer - Did extract a few tiny traces of white gunk though, so looks like it wasn't the greatest even being only 2 years old...
 
That's very interesting - I wonder if it's a cost / production efficiency measure; I'd expect the seperate air cooled radiator to be more expensive than just bunging it in the water loop. - Probably another reason for the cooling issues that people are having, with the heat not being compartmentalised on the FK8.

I'll do some more digging to see what I can find out about the lubrication system on the FK transmissions - Would've thought convective would be rather inefficient.

i'd say oil to water cooler would be more expensive. ok, i'm looking at aftermarket options here, but i'd assume the price scales: https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/...ccessories/laminova-oil-cooler-for-motorsport. £230 for a cheap one, vs £56 for the cheapest setrab air cooler.
not sure if other 9gen civics have the gearbox cooler or it's specific to typeR so there could be a mass production saving making it more attractive for the FK8.

i agree on the convection method; positive it'd not work unless its being pumped. Wish i could find a gearbox parts diagram online but nothing so far to confirm. i assume it's a gear driven pump too
If nothing turns up, I'll see if Solihull dealer can help out as I'm due for a service sometime this year.
 
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I've found this in the teardown guide for the FK8 MT. - Can't see much more than that in what I've got; There's certainly some pumping occuring but I think that may just be for the cooler - Can't see any jets or the like.

Will keep digging :p

All this gearbox talk has me considering another MTF Change.... Last one was about ~6k ago :p - Tempted to try one of the aftermarket offerings.
 
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