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Earthing Kit

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1,348
This is for the benifit for the people who have bought an earthing kit but cannot open the MS office word file.

Grounding Kit Fitting Instructions

Tools Required
10mm spanner
10mm socket and ratchet
Side cutters / snips



Tips
-Do not cable tie up anything until you have bolted up ALL the connections. This will make the installation quicker and neater
-Make sure you leave nothing loose. i.e. the bolt on the negative terminal and I-Vtec cover.
-Make sure the plastic cover is on the positive terminal as you really don’t want to short it out with the ends of the earthing kit.


STEP 0
Undo the nut on the NEGITIVE terminal on the battery and bolt on the ends marked 0. The loom with the number 1 on is best facing the front of the car as seen in the picture below.




STEP 1
Connect 1 to the battery tie bar as shown in the picture above.

STEP 2
Route the rest of the loom around the back of the engine bay and connect 2 to the bulkhead as shown in the pictures below.





STEP 3
Connect 3 in to the top right of the Red rocker cover as shown in the pictures below.





STEP 4&5
Now with the other ½ of the loom, connect 4 into the manifold and 5 into the throttle body as shown in the picture below.

 
Superb How To :D :smt023 =D>

Just a thought, is it possible to make these yourself, or is it not worth the hassle.

Plus do they actually make any difference?
 
Dazza said:
Superb How To :D :smt023 =D>

Just a thought, is it possible to make these yourself, or is it not worth the hassle.

Plus do they actually make any difference?

You can make them yourself no problems at all. But for £35 to your door is it worth it as the cable is expensive unless you buy 100m of it, the crimps are expensive unless you buy a bag of 100. Also the crimping tool is around £40.

They make a difference for some and not others. BUT for £35 its a good bit of engine bay bling if you're into that sort of thing.

They do have proven gains and the science behind them is correct.

Basically the car electrical systems need a -ve. All the -ve connections are made by stabbing it down locally to any point of the chassis and/or the internal components which in turn is bonded to the -ve terminal of the battery. So, if you bond them all together you lower/eliminate any resistance thus reducing volt drop.

That's my view as an electrician anyhow. :? I'm sure some engineer will give us an in-depth over complicated version

If you want one PM me.

Lee
 
Hey Lee, the pictures in your how-to are no longer visable, would it be cheeky to ask for them to be re-hosted? :) Many thanks.
 
This is for the benifit for the people who have bought an earthing kit but cannot open the MS office word file.

Grounding Kit Fitting Instructions

Tools Required
10mm spanner
10mm socket and ratchet
Side cutters / snips



Tips
-Do not cable tie up anything until you have bolted up ALL the connections. This will make the installation quicker and neater
-Make sure you leave nothing loose. i.e. the bolt on the negative terminal and I-Vtec cover.
-Make sure the plastic cover is on the positive terminal as you really don't want to short it out with the ends of the earthing kit.


STEP 0
Undo the nut on the NEGITIVE terminal on the battery and bolt on the ends marked 0. The loom with the number 1 on is best facing the front of the car as seen in the picture below.
Image1.jpg



STEP 1
Connect 1 to the battery tie bar as shown in the picture above.

STEP 2
Route the rest of the loom around the back of the engine bay and connect 2 to the bulkhead as shown in the pictures below.

Image2.jpg


Image3.jpg


STEP 3
Connect 3 in to the top right of the Red rocker cover as shown in the pictures below.

Image4.jpg


Image5.jpg


STEP 4&5
Now with the other ½ of the loom, connect 4 into the manifold and 5 into the throttle body as shown in the picture below.

Image6.jpg


STEP 6
Remove I-Vtec cover and route cable 6 along the plastic brackets and bolt in to the pulley housing as shown in the pictures below.

Image7.jpg


Image3.jpg


STEP 7
Use the cable ties to neatly wrap up both looms and cut off the ends.

Instructions I had included a step 6 and 7 so I've included that and rehosted the images.

:smt023
 
My lights flicker when the aircon kicks in. Will an earthing kit eliminate this? What are the benefits of an earthing kit, in laymans terms?

Cheers,

Scott
 
My lights flicker when the aircon kicks in. Will an earthing kit eliminate this? What are the benefits of an earthing kit, in laymans terms?

Cheers,

Scott
yes it should do.

the layman explaination is as you activate any electrical device on your car it creates a circuit from the positive side of the battery, to the item, to the frame of the car and back to the negative side of the battery. sometimes there are things in the way or an area of the car has a 'high resistance' to the current meaning you get a voltage drop. (the current has a harder time getting back to the battery - for sake of arguement current goes from +ve to -ve)

its these drops that can cause your revs to dip, lights to flicker, etc.. as you turn on things in the car.

the earthing kit provides a clean low resistance path back to the battery in key areas to bypass these 'high resistance' areas and prevent these drop offs.

tried to keep that as simple as possible :) hope it helps
 
Superfly - that's some hardcore lurking after 4 years. :lol: Welcome.

LeeH, did you manage to source any green at all? I think you were going to get back to me, but I forgot :D
 
lol indeed :D

had a CTR back in 2004, went away for 3 years but just got another so I'm back. Had no idea id never posted on here before; just signed in with my usual username and password and it worked!

normally went on the ctr owners forum :)
 
The theory behind these is sound enough, but I'm still to see any evidence whatsoever that they actually do anything. I'd like to do a side by side test with a resistance meter as I really can't see how the OEM grounding is that bad. Its engine bling and thats all imo.
 
if my earthing kit arrives tomorrow i'll be fitting it over the w/e and i'll let you know the difference (if any) when im switching on my lights etc..
 
My lights still dim with the earthing kit, I think doing what audio peeps call "the big three" will be more beneficial tbh.
 
My lights still dim with the earthing kit, I think doing what audio peeps call "the big three" will be more beneficial tbh.
whats 'the big three' then?

The theory behind these is sound enough, but I'm still to see any evidence whatsoever that they actually do anything. I'd like to do a side by side test with a resistance meter as I really can't see how the OEM grounding is that bad. Its engine bling and thats all imo.

right! got my kit today and had planned to do it tomorrow but i got home early and thought why not.

i tried to get a video but you couldnt hear the sound difference from the engine so i gave up on that idea. you'll just have to trust me :)

my test was, turning my HIDs on was causing the revs to drop for a second. i turned em on and off a few times and each time the revs dropped for an instant then back again. this obviously was the same for turning aircon on whilst the lights were on would dim them slightly etc..

fitted the kit, started her up and tried the lights. no drops at all!!!

no drops, no dimming, perfect :D

when i had it on my last civic i noticed better response in 6th too but i havent gone on a journey yet to test that on this one.

all in all, its done exactly what it says on the tin for me. happy fly :)
 
whats 'the big three' then?

When doing this mod, 3 runs of wire will need to be installed. They are:
  1. Battery positive (+) to alternator - From the positive terminal on your battery to the alternator positive (+) post
  2. Engine block to chassis ground - From engine block to chasis. This is to strengthen the ground.
  3. Battery ground (-) to chassis ground - From the negative terminal on your battery to your car's chassis.

Best to use large gauge wire like 4 gauge or even 0 gauge.
 
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