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EP3 'Money well spent' mods for the FN2

No difference without it being mapped, other than it might not work properly as the ECU will be thinking it's a standard size and opening it as wide as it would the OEM due to the throttle being DBW.

The stock TB is good for OEM cams to be honest, any gains at all on a bigger throttle body are minimal but if you're getting a larger bore inlet manifold it does make sense to match the TB to it.
 
All my research and asking people has told me the mid pipe is where the restriction is on the FN2. My mate on his EP3 had a tegiwa intake, full exhaust, new manifold and maybe a throttle body(could of been fitted after mapping). When he went to get it mapped it was making 204bhp before the remap. Once he remapped it made 230 - 240bhp. Remapping is the only way to get the most out of your mods and that costs.
 
which panel filter best suits the fn2 or is the oem one good enough, also thinking of getting a inlet tract to replace the resonator box is this recommended?
 
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Tract is a good mod, it removes the restriction and provides decent cold air. Just make sure you smooth the OEM airbox to get the best from that setup.

OEM panel is good, K&N performs best IIRC. I'm pretty sure the HKS and powerflow ones actually reduced manifold pressure.
 
Ok. Thinking about mods for my fn2 and was wondering if you could help.


My proposal is hks risk with heat guard
Full fast road setup with front cambers&rear shims. Eibach springs.
Hondata remap- flash or k pro. Which would you recommend.
These I want done for sure.


Wanted to know if I'd need anything else to go with the hks rsk to prevent heat soak.


Plus I have also been looking at rrc intake manifold, tegiwa 4-2-1 exhaust manifold. And millltek full cat back exhaust. Will I get much gains by adding these item, performance and sound. Also will I need a separate cat converter to get through mot. By adding one will I lose power etc. will I see much difference if I didn't do the header and intake manifold.
 
You need Flashpro for the FN2. Kpro is for the previous gen cars (EP3/DC5 etc) with throttle cables rather than DBW.

You'll notice a big difference with an exhaust manifold, not so much with the intake manifold but they are a cumulative effect so they all add up. With the exhaust manifold you'll get much more mid range as it eliminates the restriction you see on dyno graphs where there is a dip in torque with the OEM manifold still in place.

This was mine with HKS, cat-back and balancer shaft delete kit:

Dyno180111.jpg


Then this was with Tegiwa manifold, FD2 throttle body and FD2 balancer shaft delete kit. Big difference in mid range but only 7 bhp on the headline figure:

TegiwaGraph.jpg


The cat-back was the same despite one graph saying Magnex and one saying Milltek, it was a Magnex up until I sold the car.
 
Thanks loxy. I think I'll take your advice and go for the 421 as well. What is this balancer shaft delete kit. Is it essential. Also I've seen the miltek exhaust resonated and non resonated. Would the non res sound very harsh. Like a Subaru. Someone recommended the tegiwa exhaust but does it only have one outlet, would this affect performance at all.

With The Hks rsk. Does it work the same as the Tegiwa induction box. I think the Hks looks very nice. But which one works better.
 
Thanks loxy. I think I'll take your advice and go for the 421 as well. What is this balancer shaft delete kit. Is it essential. Also I've seen the miltek exhaust resonated and non resonated. Would the non res sound very harsh. Like a Subaru. Someone recommended the tegiwa exhaust but does it only have one outlet, would this affect performance at all.

With The Hks rsk. Does it work the same as the Tegiwa induction box. I think the Hks looks very nice. But which one works better.

The balancer shaft delete kit is basically an FD2 oil pump that is lighter and easier to spin than the FN2 one. It reduces parasitic loss on your engine and lets it spin up easier. Not essential but a good mod.

The Milltek non-res exhaust is louder than the resonated one, but it won't ever round like a Subaru. Different type of engine and header setup that gives the Subaru its sound. The Tegiwa is a good exhaust, and no having one exit if anything makes it a more simple system and it doesn't affect performance because of it.

HKS and Tegiwa intakes are completely different. I've covered them earlier in this thread. Both have their merits, but if I was doing it again I'd be getting the Tegiwa intake but you don't get the lovely sound of the HKS. The Tegiwa will give consistent intake temps however.
 
Cat back? Toda performs better but the Mugen is a really well made bit of kit. There have been some Toda exhausts that have needed the baffles re-packing is the old ones have broken loose and started to rattle.
 
Many thanks loxy. I'll let you know once I decide what I'm doing. You advice has been a gem. Can't wait to get some of these things done.
 
Hello loxy.

Much thanks for for the advice on the mods for my fn2.

Ive taken the plunge and done the following.

Hel braided lines.
Stoptech discs all round.
Mintex 1144 front pads
ferodo 2500 rear pads
tegiwa carbon intake box
rrc inlet manifold
tegiwa thermal inlet gasket
Tegiwa exhaust manifold
tegiwa cat back exhaust
balance shaft delete kit. Fit fd2 oil pump
Frsu including cambers and shims and springs
hondata flash pro remap

Cannot wait. Will let you know once I get my car back.
 
Does anyone do a brake brace?

Never encountered a Honda yet that benefited from braided lines because they have fibre braided lines as standard, but the servo bows out a good inch under full pressure.
 
Braided lines do make a difference, it's very well documented.

Tegiwa sell a 'brake stopper' for the FN2.
 
Thanks for the note on the brake stopper, but is there anywhere else? Tegiwa stuff isn't very good in my experience.

As for brake lines, on every Honda I have ever worked on (EG, EK, EM, EP3, DC2, BB8, AP1, PC41) they have all had fibre reinforced lines that don't expand. I have fitted them on a few old cars in precaution and noticed ZERO pedal feel difference.

The feeling most people have is because they use fresh fluid on the change.

Of course, the documentation comes from people trying to sell you brake lines.

But apart from the 'arse dyno' what proof do you have? Try sticking a pair of vernier calipers over the hose, get someone to mash the brake pedal and see how much deflection you get ;)
 
Ok, well you're the first person I know of on this site to ever say braided lines don't make a difference. Check the build threads, almost everyone has them. I had them on my ep3 and the pedal feel was much nicer. Never had a brake stopper.

As as for tegiwa quality, I hear you. For what it is though, it shouldn't matter a jot who made it. As long as it stops the bulkhead flexing it's all good.
 
Ok, well you're the first person I know of on this site to ever say braided lines don't make a difference. Check the build threads, almost everyone has them. I had them on my ep3 and the pedal feel was much nicer. Never had a brake stopper.

As as for tegiwa quality, I hear you. For what it is though, it shouldn't matter a jot who made it. As long as it stops the bulkhead flexing it's all good.

Yep, everyone else is kidding themselves because they spent £80 on something with no immediate benefit. Rest assured the pepsi challenge and they wouldn't have a clue which had braided lines or not hence my term 'arse dyno' :) Seriously, get a set of verniers on a standard brake line and see how much it flexes under pressure! Those in EP3s (and early FN2s) will have corroded main steel lines and should concentrate on changing them over to copper rather than fancy Hel lines. I have never seen a rubber line burst, but have seen plenty of the steel lines go!

The bulkhead won't flex, it's the brake servo that flexes and it REALLY does flex! Again, watch it and get a mate to press the brake pedal and watch it bow out!

Yeah, it doesn't matter who made it but I have had enough poor quality/service from tegiwa so they aren't getting any money from me. I had about 30 made for the S2000 forum going back a few years, but I am not doing 30 again!
 
You heard it here first folks, you're all wrong and your braided lines do nothing.

 
I have given you a simple test to PROVE this. Don't take my word for it, do my experiment and see for yourself :)

And it's pretty much common knowledge anyway :)
 
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