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FN2 Buying guide/check list for the FN2 Civic Type R

Loxy

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A bit of this is borrowed from the EP3 buying guide as a lot of it carries over. I've edited out bits that don't apply to the FN2 and added bits that do.

Engine & Drivetrain:
Waterpump and belts seem ok?
Check oil (& cap), coolant, other fluids for levels/condition
Which oil is in the car ran on and is the oil level ok? Shows it's kept an eye on. 5w/40 fully synth is ideal
Blue smoke at the back? Any smoke up front?
VTEC engages properly?
Noises; tappets and lifters etc. Not to worry too much, could just need valve clearances setting. Bartering point!
Gearbox, notchy/crunchy?
3rd gear works ok? No jumping out of any gear?
Clutch feels ok - no juddering? No slipping? No release bearing noise?
Listen for whining from Gearbox
Engine and gearbox mounts, much rocking of engine?
Noises/rattles/vibrations/leaks
Easy to start?
Temp when idling, check fan kicks in

Suspension:
Steering rack noisy, notchy, sticky, dry spots, creaky/clicky
Tramlining? Any excessive pulling left or right?
Tracking – check tyre wear and how wheels sit
Wishbones, bushes etc – does the car sit level?
Steering doesn’t feel loose indicating worn ball joints, track rod ends etc?

Brakes, Wheels & Tyres:
Check condition and wear of brakes and tyres
What are wheels like, corrosion, buckles etc
What brand of tyres, do they match? Good sign of how well the owner cares for the car.
Check rear tyre wear
No brake juddering?

Electrics:
Whirring when ignition on – front headlight adjustment noise?
Lights, heaters, anything worth trying etc, windows, interior lights, mirrors, aircon if applicable
Keyfobs to test locks, key in the door

Interior:
Condition of steering wheel, plastics, seats, door cards
Carpet condition, check not wet, same for A/B/C pillars and boot
Window rattles and good performance going up and down incase of faulty window mech
Check all electrics inside work – lights, windows, wipers, stalks, switches etc
Seats feel solid, not rocky etc, same for door cards if leant on hard

Exterior:
Rust in general and on the roof, under the rubbers on the doors, hinges (boot hinges/door hinges/bonnet hinges)
Dents/Scratches/Stone chips
Paint issues – laquer, fading, swirls etc, headlight fading/blotchy, side skirts loose?
Check under the sills and jacking points for damage, under bumpers/skirts also for scuffs/cracks

Docs, History, Other:
Both keys?
All history – manuals, service books (check stamps), receipts, MOT cert(s), tax discs, V5 docs, Type R Leather Folder
Check HPI clear
Locking wheel nut key!
History on major services, 50k service, 75k service
75k service details? Valve clearance, belts, filters, fluids, hinges etc


CTR Buyers Guide

What should I look out for

3rd Gear

2007 cars were renowned for this and now some later models are starting to exhibit the same symptoms. The synchro on the third gear would prematurely wear and there is a warranty fix (for cars still under warranty).

Third gear can feel notchy on selection and if the wear is enough, the car will pop out of third gear shortly after selection.

Clutch

Clutch can whine a little when cold just at the biting point. This is known of by Honda but the clutch operation is not affected by this. Some clutches were replaced by Honda but the issue came back, so Honda are now not forthcoming with replacing clutches.

Squeaking clutch pedal. This can be the pedal box where the washers from the pedal spring have broken or come out completely, or the clutch master cylinder has dried up on the pedal side. Both were replaced under warranty but you will have to pay for it on a car out of warranty. If you are lucky lubrication of the clutch pedal assembly and/or the master cylinder where the rod from the clutch assembly goes into it can resolve the issue but it may come back. Use a motorbike chain lube as it does not evaporate like WD40.

Clicking clutch pedal can also be the pedal box, but you will always hear a slight click from the cruise control deactivation switch.

HondaHintsandTipsMar.jpg


Noisy Valves (Clearances)


You may hear a tappety sound, more prevalent when the car is cold but also heard once it is warmed up. The clearances should be checked every 25k at the closest service and not necessarily on every 2nd service on the schedule. A lot of main dealers seem to neglect this check and adjustment so make sure they have been done.

More common with the FN2 is the noise of the injectors being confused for noisy tappets. The injectors are quite noisy on idle and this is normal.

Subframe click

The front subframe has been known to click when under hard acceleration or braking. This dirt getting caught between two sections of the subframe and is nothing more than an annoyance.There is a Honda fix for this.

Bulletin for it here: https://www.google.co.za/url?sa=t&r...=UXgN6ygw-Dw4eIs_H3isew&bvm=bv.47534661,d.ZG4

Rocker Cover Paint

Under the bonnet, the Rocker Cover may have paint flaking away. It's nothing to worry about, just makes the engine bay look untidy!

Door Handles

The plastic covers on the door handles have been known to break away from their fixings leaving the plastic cover loose. This is a warranty repair if the car is still under warranty. The handle cover isn't sold separately and needs a complete replacement handle so not cheap. The cover can be glued back on but depending on the glue used has been known to come loose again.

Wing mirrors

A module in the wing mirrors can fail which either stops the wing mirrors folding or makes them fold extremely slowly. Each mirror has its own module and fail independently of each other. Replacement module called the SOD (Shut off device) and is part number 76209-SMG-E01 and is a 5 minute fix.
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Full bulletin:
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Rattles


Honda build quality did seem to take a dive on the 8th gen Civic. Rattles have been reported in the headlining, dash and from the windscreen.

Headlining is usually a loose cable that needs taping down or a loose clip if the headlining has been out for the fitting of aftermarket electronics (parrot/parking sensors etc).

Dash rattles are much harder to diagnose. Again could be a loose cable, some rattles have been the dash brightness button or the mph/kph button. People have been known to use bluetak to stop the button rattles. :rolleyes: Some dashes have been removed and refitted by dealers under warranty and still not cured the rattle. Most you'll learn to live with.

Windscreen rattle is a simple fix. Water and dirt can get between the windscreen cowl (scuttle) and the windscreen which when the car is moving can make a rattle or in some cases a loud slapping noise. Remove the cowl (push pin at either side and one in the middle) and stick on a length of self adhesive foam tape and refit. Problem solved.

Suspension squeaks

Rear suspension can creak when cold/first moving away literally for the first couple of corners. Honda are aware but it is not a safety issue so there is not a high likelihood of a dealer fix. Lubricating the top and bottom of the shocks has been known to alleviate the issue but it more than likely will return.

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Rust

Quite a new one, but the rubber strip at the top of the windscreen has been known to cut the paint and result in the roof starting to bubble. This should be covered under the 12 years anti corrosion warranty but currently some people are in the throws of attempting a claim from Honda UK for this.

On pre-facelift cars (before 2009) the rubber seal on the top of the doors at the edge closest to the B-pillar allowed water to pool meaning they started to rust where the paint was thinnest. Doors were replaced under warranty but a preventative measure was to put a decent blob of touch up paint on the door metal. Cars after the facelift had a revised rubber.

Recalls

So far only two major recalls affected the FN2, both no cost recalls.

The first was the replacement of the MICU box (fancy name for a fuse box) on 2008 models. The faulty unit would not go to sleep when the car was turned off and would drain the battery if the car was not run regularly. Some people reported flat batteries after a couple of days of not running the car and particularly if auto wipers and headlights had been left in the auto position. Recall consisted of replacement of the offending MICU.

The second more recent one affected all FN2s manufactured and related to a section of the wiring loom to the O/S front headlight. If the loom was incorrectly routed on the assembly line it could catch in the O/S engine mount and fray. Recall consisted of inspection of the routing and if necessary repair or if required complete replacement of that section of the wiring loom.

Type R vs Type R GT

The GT got additional equipment which included:
Auto rain sensing wipers
Auto dusk sensing headlights
Dual zone climate control (non GT cars didn't have AC)
Refrigerated glove box (switch-able vent to blow AC into glove box not an actual fridge)
Fog lights
Electric folding wing mirrors
Cruise control

Facelifts/Other editions

In 2009 the car got a minor facelift. This included dropping of the non-GT model, the addition of HIDs and the associated headlight washers and self leveling headlights, AUX connection as standard and tyre pressure warning system. Easiest way to tell a facelift is if it has the headlight washers but also the VIN will have an 09/10 in it.

Championship White edition released with a run of 600, included all of the facelift additions and door handles, petrol filler cap and grill accent were in a dark chrome colour. All CW cars had an LSD as standard.

Deep Bronze Pearl was dropped just before the facelift was introduced and there was the introduction of Deep Sapphire Blue and Nighthawk Black replaced by Crystal Black Pearl. Cars manufactured after April 2010 also had an LSD as standard.

2010 saw the release of the M200 Mugen special editions, limited to 200 and based on the Championship White model so included the LSD. They also came with Honda 19" Lightning alloys, Mugen front and rear lower splitters, Mugen badge on the boot lid and a x/200 Mugen plaque in place of the standard one near the gear knob. Also came with correspondingly numbered document/manual booklet wallet.



If there is anything else that you think should be added, post up and I'll amend this OP.
 
CTR Buyer's Guide - Vital Document

John

My better half decided she'd had enough of a slight squeaking noise coming from the clutch, booked the car into Horizon Honda on 1st having received the infomation regarding the clutch as your CTR Buyer's Guide and I can confirm they checked the car with the result it's now booked in on 6th November to have the clutch master cylinder changed under Warranty. Whilst in there on 1st they also checked the wiring loom and confirmed no problem in this regard.

I can only say many thanks for your report which was of great benefit when she took the car in simply because she then had the information with her in the event they tried to fob her off although with this particular garage I doubt they would have done so.

Allan:cool::D
 
Thanks for your help that list is pretty good and should help me tomorrow when viewing the civic. cheers
 
I'm getting the 3rd gear problem, wing mirror problem, rust along seals above the windscreen and a possible noisy valve problem along with a lot of interior rattling on my 57 plate FN2 and my local dealership refuses to recognise any of the problems saying they can't find anything wrong and their fix for my wing mirrors was to add lubricant! Really started to get ticked off with them especially when my car is well within its 6 month warranty and after reading this, is there anything Honda UK could do instead?

Thanks.
 
If you got it as Honda approved yes they should be fixing all of the problems.

Ask them again nicely and if they refuse give Honda UK a call yes.
 
Gave Honda UK a call and they were no help at all basically saying it's up to the dealer we can't do anything, bye! :confused:
 
Try a different dealer. The Honda approved warranty isn't tied to one dealership.
 
Ye, I booked it in at my next nearest dealer, around an hour and a half away from me, hopefully they will be more willing to help although even they said due to the mileage and the location of the 3rd gear problem (the gearbox) it will most probably be a case of honda offering to pay only part of the repair. Also whilst on the phone to honda this morning they said they're was no extended warranty for the rust along the seals of the windscreen problem :confused: This day just keeps getting worse.
 
There is, it's to 6 years. Your 57 is out of that warranty extension though, but then again it should be covered by the Approved Honda guarantee.
 
3rd gear issue...I did notice a couple times it was notchy going in, is this just under a 3year parts warrenty or is it on an extended warrenty? failing that, anybody paid for this problem to be fixed, if so what was the cost?
cheers
 
Normal 3 year warranty. If you're buying from Honda then they should cover it under the 1 year Honda warranty, you might get lucky and get it done if buying from an independent.

Paying yourself you're talking a new carbon synchro set. You could just get 3rd and 4th done but the price difference is minimal between those and the full set. You're talking around £638 from Grinspeed all in, I haven't looked elsewhere.

http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?91731-New-Year-Offers
 
cheers mate, will call up Honda first and see what the say, after I get car back from getting roof fixed :)
 
Cars manufactured after April 2010 also had an LSD as standard.
How do I know the car is manufactured after April 2010 ?
I checked the VIN but it only says manufactured in 2010.

I bought mine in August 2010 not knowing about LSD would be standard and I don't know if I got it.
What i have done is looking at the seat belt. The little label on it says 18.03.10. But this does not say for shure that my Civic is manufactured in March or April 2010?!
 
Ring a dealer, ask for service and give them the VIN. They'll be able to tell you if it has an LSD fitted.
 
Hi,

I’m new to the forum and looking at purchasing a 2010 FN2 with approximately 50k miles in the next few weeks.

This guide was exactly what I was looking for so thanks.

I notice the thread was posted a long time ago, do you think there is anything else I should look out for on top of what’s stated here?

Cheers,

Theo
 
Everything you want is here.

The only other issue that does pop up is the dreaded stuck front caliper.
I have had both replaced in the last 18 months with re-manufactured units that my garage charged at £77 plus VAT (£148 fitted).

BTW mine is 2011 on 50k miles bought 2 years ago at 34k.
 
Hi Wilmo,

Thanks for the response.

Is there a way that I can check for calliper issues when I purchase the car or would you suggest taking the car to Honda dealer after I’ve purchased it and have the callipers checked and changed if needed?

Also on the subject of Honda main dealers. Would you suggest using them for services and repairs etc. Or is it best to use a Type R specialist? (If there is such a thing).

And if there is, do you know if there is one anywhere near Peterborough?

Thanks
 
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