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Loxy's Type R #4

Had a first go with the claybar recently, found it surprisingly therapeutic. Very easy and quick even on the acres of panelwork the Amazon has, it's obvious when things are good from the feel (and sound if the surface is really bad!)
 
Just be careful when you're doing the drying as that's when it's the easiest to scratch the paint. Use any sort of deep pile wash mitt rather than a sponge and you'll reduce the damage you do when washing it. Rinse often, as often as you can without going insane. Likewise refreshing your rinse water will reduce the probability of grit in the mitt. Lol.

Bear in mind though that the scratches and swirls are inevitable. They WILL appear in one light or another. But equally, they are not really an issue. With a DIY attitude and a bit of reading, and a 6" polishing DA, you can get rid of any mark that you put into the paint with a reasonably caring wash regime. Little scratches will build up over time but you can blitz it once every year or six months or whatever with the polisher and it'll look brand new again. Also the wax over the top will hide the smallest scratches.
 
I use nothing other than AB lol,good stuff, reasonably priced and 10 mins from my house to :D

Just noticed you started getting into the cleaning stuff (don't know how I missed the page) if you know someone who has a MOP or are willing to try stuff yourself then you will notice a huge amounts of difference, especially if you correct after claying, will get rid of most swirls and gives it a beautiful finish once its all done
 
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FOAD, I'm noshing off his step dad. :lol:

Plus it's convenient as the store is 10 minutes away from my house.

You bloody are, I'm just waiting for him to tag you in a "Civil Partnership" status :lol:

I personally haven't tried any of their products, but the products I do use I'm fairly happy with.

Wolfs deionizer, Iron-X, Purple Rain....they all do the same thing, and people who use them all rate the product, so I think it's more of a personal preference thing.

I also like to use VP Dragons Breath on my wheels, it pretty much cleans them with very little (if any) contact, but it's expensive when you consider how many applications you get out of a bottle. With Iron-X I find I use bugger all and it goes a long way, smells like death though.
 
Some shiny bits arrived tonight.

Prompted my the stuck OEM oil cap last week I promptly plumped for a couple of items to match some other bits that are on back order.

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Fitted in the dark, just because I wasn't waiting until the morning...

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Excuse the odd coloured rocker cover nuts, they'll be being rectified soon enough:

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Parts pile waiting to go on is getting bigger, not all there yet though. Brace in the background is from the FD2, don't get excited...

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FD2 brace you say? :lol:

Good collection of bits so far. I need to start thinking of doing small bits, got to actually get the car first.
 
While I'm posting up, I had an absolutely mind numbingly annoying rattle develop on the car.

I found it pretty much straight away with a bit of prodding. The tweeter on the passenger side was rattling about in the housing. Yep, drove me nuts.

Pulled the thing off:

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Top tip, pull from the top. Get a fish slice or something similarly thin and plastic in there and when it's out enough fingers in and tug. There is a metal clip at the top that you want to free first and then the bottom sort of hinges on the two prongs and it then lifts off. Squeeze the top of the connector and the wiring comes off the tweeter.

How it looks separated.

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The tweeter has three plastic springs push clips on it that clip onto the housing. On mine, they just didn't hold it tight enough to stop the tweeter moving in the housing. The driver's side seems fine.

Temporary fix, just to be sure it was the tweeter making the rattling noise.

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Some thinly rolled blu-tac, just on the lip of the tweeter that makes contact with the housing.

Back together.

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I used blu-tac because it is meant to be temporary as a test, and it will easily come off without leaving any residue if it wasn't. Suffice to say the rattle has gone.

Now I'm sure I've found what was causing the rattle, I'm going to whip it off again at the weekend and put some double sided adhesive tape on the tweeter lip instead of blu-tac. It's the stuff for mounting phone and tablet screens to bezels etc, very thin and super strong but not permanent should I ever need to remove the tweeter from the housing again.
 
FD2 brace you say? :lol:

Good collection of bits so far. I need to start thinking of doing small bits, got to actually get the car first.

I'm not 100% sure it fits bud as I never had it on the car. It's a Cusco one, but I've only ever found pics of it fitted to non-CTR variant FD chassis cars.

The problem I see is it clearing the inlet manifold, it's one of those cross braces from the top mounts down to the slam panel.
 
I'm not 100% sure it fits bud as I never had it on the car. It's a Cusco one, but I've only ever found pics of it fitted to non-CTR variant FD chassis cars.

The problem I see is it clearing the inlet manifold, it's one of those cross braces from the top mounts down to the slam panel.


If you think about it closer to the time then you could always bring it to JAE or a steak meet. I could try it against mine.
 
I got to the bottom of why the seat doesn't slide back and forth when the handle is pulled to tilt the seat back on my passenger seat. It slides fine when you pull the handle under the seat, just not with the seat tilt.

I took the seat out for a better look. Same as the EP3 in that there are 4x 14mm bolts to undo, although you have to remove four plastic covers first. When you do get the seat up there are five connectors to undo. A bit more than the EP3!

Anyway, seat out and upside down and inspect the mechanism as to what is going on, fingers crossed that it's just something stuck and needs lubing or a foreign object is stuck somewhere. Immediately I notice that the right hand runner operates as it should, but the left hand isn't moving. Spy a couple of cables and hey presto! Damn. The end of the cable on one side is snapped.

This one to be exact.

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It should be in this lever, like this

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However the end of it has snapped off. I got the cable out of the holder

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You can't buy a separate cable and to be honest I wouldn't want to try to swap it as the rest of it is quite buried under plastic and seat trim.

So it's just something I'm going to have to live with or try and find another seat. To be honest I think it will be the former, as none has been in the back yet.
 
David Haswell may still have the stock seats from his FN2.
Do you want me to see if they'd be available?

Just thinking long term for you mate
 
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