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Hard wire dash cam

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30
After a bit of advice .
I want to hard wire my dash cam. loads of ways to do it but what is best

additional cig lighters ?? don't like sound of

piggy back fuse ???

solder ???

As anyone done any of these
 
Most people use an inline fuse from the accessory plug on the internal fuse box (the one under the dash above the driver's side footwell).
 
It is the accessory connector. You can earth to anywhere but the live you take from here:

20131113_234205.jpg


Connect the bottom right connector for ignition or bottom left for constant battery power if you want to use the dash cams motion sensor(note you will need a fuse in slot 27)(note this may drain your battery)

Credit: http://www.civinfo.com/forum/how/109014-how-hardwiring-dashcam.html
 
I've just had to do this on the Raudi to get an aftermarket stereo installed (stupid CANBUS crap). Can recommend the AutoLeads dual fuse spur, and I took the feed off of a circuit that's ignition live (telephone system I think). However if you want it to do always on for motion capture when you're parked up you're better going off something like interior lighting I'd say.
 
Hello back again. I ordered the hard wire kit from road angel and its come with the following

Red needs an ignition source
White needs a perm source
Black is earth

Could anyone give me any advice ..Doing my head in .Went to H*lf*rds and they made no sense wanted to plug in two piggy back fuses
..
 
Lifted shamelessly from another forum:

Syx said:
Guys I would like to make a final statement on this following testing.

There are 6 pins in the connector, 4 across the top and two at the bottom. I have used a naming convention as you look at the pins in the open connector space.

Top far left: +12V when reverse gear is engaged, 0V otherwise.

Top left: A fluctuating voltage which ranges +0.3 < V < +0.8 when ignition is switched, 0V otherwise. No idea what this is for.

Top right: +1.3V with sidelights, 0V otherwise. Again, not sure what this is for.

Top far right: +12V with sidelights, 0V otherwise.

Bottom left: +12V constant from battery.

Bottom right: +12V switched with ignition, 0V otherwise.

To find a ground source, there are bolts that hold the pull levers for fuel cap and bonnet behind the plastic trim which you can route a wire to easily enough.

There is another post stating 1A fuse for slot 27 for constant 12v.

C is where the option connector is:

tapatalk_1465325678954_1_1.jpg


You can either crimp on the spade connectors but you've the potential to short if you're ham fitted or get the connector here where you'll also probably find more accurate info!: http://www.civinfo.com/forum/group-buys/230594-group-buy-original-honda-civic-option-connectors.html
 
Thanks for reply Loxy . Do you think female connectors straight to pins mentioned . Perm to battery has fuse on wire, but how would you protect ignition feed last thing I need this week is a electrical fire .
Think what it says is the right and best place to ground looking at it
 
Spade connectors will work but they can potentially come loose.

It's an option connector on the internal fuse board, and that fuse board has a fuse for the 12v on ignition. You don't need an inline fuse.

You need to put a fuse in slot 27 to make the circuit for the constant 12v or you won't get anything out of it. Again, because it is fused, you don't need an inline fuse.

Negative can be any bare metal surface you can find. On the 9th Gen I've used an M10 nut and bolt through a hole on the dash brackets above the pedal box.
 
I've just had to do this on the Raudi to get an aftermarket stereo installed (stupid CANBUS crap). Can recommend the AutoLeads dual fuse spur, and I took the feed off of a circuit that's ignition live (telephone system I think).
Just a bit of advice, if you do take a feed from the HFT be carefully as the HFT system suffers from current drains & is very expensive to replace the HFT control unit
Most of the time we just disconnect the unit
 
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