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FK2 FK2 Track Day Discussion

yep, fired an email off to girodisc after a quick search for 'girodisc fk8' and this thread/picture appearing: https://www.civicx.com/threads/i-replaced-my-pads-and-my-rotors.14898/page-3#post-292378
machined surface runs right to the hat.

personally, i cant see it causing an issue but we'll see what they say.

fecking car. if it's not part issues, it's warranty claims, if not that then it's the thing suspension knocking or something new rattling. This honda is about as well built as my 10yr old pug that i was fixing monthly and eventually pushed me to the honda brand in the first place.
 
labor day in USA, no reply from giro yet. maybe tomorrow/wednesday.

PBS pads started to melt at donington, so thats heat issues on both pmu and pbs. Clear to me i'm exceeding 800c temps now. I didn't like the feel of the PBS's either as they felt a bit wooden, so i'll resign them to winter use.

cue the Carbone Lorraine RC6e's.
qUb8Vx5.jpg
 
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while i havent had a response directly, the 'merican guy with same issue did get a response.

from the fk8 track cars FB group:
"Just talked to the guys at Giro. It’s a small amount of zinc plating that will wear off within a hundred miles or so. They indicated that certain other customers on high end cars were complaining about over machined surfaces that would rust without pad contact. This ensures that there is an exact wear path and no extra machining. We should be good to go!"

wish they put that on a tag/faq somewhere saying it'll wear off. My first impressions were right; it'll wear off and be no problem.


now i need to decide on an october trackday. donny again, or national silverstone.
 
No mate, your pads won't be making full contact what so ever.

Their response doesn't match your circumstances at all.
 
pads have ran themselves in on the discs; zinc plating gone and you cant tell anything was amiss.

fitted my new CL RC6e pads at the weekend and they're in a different league than anything else i've used so far. grippy little buggers! their mu rating just doesn't relate to the PBS or pMu's i've ran in the past.
Nothing unexpected but they have pad knock when changing direction and squeal right good... which i dont mind tbh.

Donington booked up for mid-october to see what this Giro & CL combo work like. fingers crossed for dry weather this time so i might be able to get some heat in to these cup2's and see how they perform.
 
You'd have had similar experience with RS29 but you were so obsessed with temperature ratings.
 
with good reason (at least in my mind). 2 sets of pads rated for 800c, regardless of compound; both sets overheated. heat paint on the dba's both exceeded the red 630c marker so doesnt leave much overhead for pad temps.

unless i can be convinced otherwise, I'm going with temps being my issue. At £340 for the RSL29's it's not money i want to throw down in hope i don't cook 'em.

if i do meet anyone at a trackday, i'd be more than happy to go out and get feedback. so far for those i've taken out (instructors included) have made no comments on improving brakes so i'm assuming all is good there and it's not a 'me' thing.
 
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Your pads sit on the discs the same as my EBC discs, but where you have the zinc coating I have a horrible looking rust ring (think I mentioned it in pm) so can understand Girodiscs reasons for zinc coating that part
 
with good reason (at least in my mind). 2 sets of pads rated for 800c, regardless of compound; both sets overheated. heat paint on the dba's both exceeded the red 630c marker so doesnt leave much overhead for pad temps.
Well pretty much everyone I know that’s used them including feedback on other forums with people who go on track would disagree with your logic. They’re used in endurance races as an example.
 
you're not the only one who's mentioned it. think i should be able to get the fk2 brake pressure gauge visible when i record the next even so i can be 100% sure I'm braking the way i think i am.
Something that crossed my mind was these rc6e's are slightly undersized to handle heat expansion. I wonder if my past pads were binding and causing them to drag slightly - that certainly wouldn't help with temps. The pMu's I've had needed a slight filing down to fit in the caliper and i didn't consider any clearance for heat expansion. PBS's were definitely looser than the pmu's and i've had less heat-related issues too despite similar specs.
if these rc6e's work then i'm going with a binding issue as my braking style won't be different. I'll be happier to spend the cash on the pagids in the future.
if i still suffer with temps, then it's me.
 
@chris - out of interest, how are you finding the CT XP12's? was torn between the rc6e's and xp12's.
 
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No idea - they're still brand new in the box. The MOT testers 'front pads wearing thin' advisory actually translated to there's 50-60% of the RS29 pad life left. Not bad considering they've done Spa 2 (or 3) times, the 'Ring, Combe, Silverstone etc.

Had the RS29's been cheaper there's no way I'd have tried the XP12's - I am more than happy with RS29's, I really cannot fault them at all. I'm expecting I won't like the XP12's as I had XP10 before and they were excessively dusty, noisy and didn't last as long as I would have hoped. We shall see.
 
just back from donington, glad to say brakes are sorted! RC6e's were perfect. good feel, consistent & predicable and no fade. they don't look worn at all either. i really like these.

Radiant heat or smell from brakes wasn't as bad as what it has been in the past; noticeably cooler. Wish brake temp paint was cheaper as i'd know 100% what they got up.

Not a pad for the road though as while i'm yet to measure the discs they appear to have worn them excessively for what 2months commute use should do. I'll know more midweek/weekend when i swap back to street pads.
Brake temp issues: I cant see how pad compound or DBA to Girodisc has made the difference. i'm putting it down to pads binding in caliper when they expand with the heat as everything else was the same really; session time, car setup, driving style.
Got rain in the afternoon which made the track nasty. at least my June date was wet all day so just felt wet. today felt wet and greasy.

FK2 didn't quite get off faultless though. blew the PCV hose off intake plenum around 11am (i run oil catchcan) and not something you can fix trackside. guess i'll be upgrading from some cheap reinforced PVC tubing to silicone stuff. Ran it anyway but felt 30-40hp down due to boost leak. currently sounds like a race car with it's idle popping and banging :p Interestingly it's not thrown a code.
might do the T-valve mod at the same time.

unfortunately had a fiesta ST roll 3 times and a few race/track only machines find the tyre wall and another car drop its oil (through hollywood&crainers no less!). not too many red flags, just duration of the cleanup got a bit tedious.
 
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where have you mounted your catch can out of interest, was thinking about this especially if I'm doing the pcv, (collected from honda yesterday after service with valve clearances which they said fixed all the issues and cold start was fine but ran like **** all the way home power kept cutting and was like hitting a brick wall)
 
catch can is mounted to the slam panel just above clutch slave cylinder.
dHbz96s.jpg


not checked the catch can recently but i think after only 3-4 weeks it caught more than i expected. 10mile/day commute to work, cold engine/low revs:
PCf65dk.jpg


got the PCV pipework sorted tonight. 8mmID blue silicon hose with appropriate spring clips. definately need the spring clips on which was my mistake not using any. If using ht emishimoto compact baffled can like i did, you'll also need smaller barb connections as the supplied ones are more like 10/12mm.

Back to the brakes; since donington was my last planned event of the day i decided to continue with the DIYing tonight. after upgrading to silicon hoses, swapped pads back to road suitable.
Pulled 'em out and one of them is no longer connected to the friction material. Ya couldnt make it up! Fired an email off to see what CL say.
 
I'm not one to slate a company but Carbon Lorraine Pads is a company I can not recommend, my pads fell to pieces on my old Elise, very light car one trackday, I'm not the only one so when I read your experience it seems that they haven't sorted it out four years on :(
 
I've seen the same stories.
waiting a reply from them anyway but it hasn't (yet) put me off the brand. they are what i want on track - soo consistent throughout the temp range you can always predict them. Something I didn't find on the pMu or PBS's, although that could be down to cooking 'em.
like i said above, radiant heat from brakes didn't seem anywhere near as bad this time so i'm feeling a bit more confident i can use other pads if i file 'em down a bit to allow expansion. Maybe try taking off 1mm off these PBS's for next year and prove it. better to try on those than £300+ for the pagids.

decided I'm going to run separate track pads and tyres too now. 18's have more selection and will bring down costs vs 19's. means i can go back to the dunlop RT2's for road only and pretty much knock off £80-100/tyre (vs cup2's).
I've seen a reasonable amount of talk with the Nankang AR1's so very interested in those atm. need to research them more to see how they cope with the weight of the CTR.
 
Never heard that with CLs, sorry to hear that. You know what drum I'm going to bang don't you!
 
yes yes, bring out your RSL29 hype drum :D

CL's are now 2 piece :p i saw stuff like this but seemed to be old threads and not quiet enough to say it was a common issue. All the other 7 friction pads remain connected to the backing plate.Failure is the inner trailing side
eAyR79L.png


collecting a set of 8.5x18 TD1.3's at the weekend. might be able to claw most of that back when i sell my cheap winters and use the TD's to swap between AS/winter and track rubber.
 
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