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FK2 FK2 Track Day Discussion

Having used both back to back there is a huge difference in performance, resistance to fade and wear rate.

is that on track only use, or daily driver with track use as well? been reading up tonight and found some performance pads, when running them cold, are abrasive. Some need a bit of heat in them before working as they should.
I'm trying to decide what to do - running girodisc+rs29's as a daily driver, all year round would be living the dream. But if the rs29's are abrasive i'd rather not be chewing through the giro's.
having different discs&pads for road & track is just hassle swapping them over.
 
If you’re that worried then run a normal set of pads on the road. It takes about 10-15 minutes per side to swap them out.
 
If you’re that worried then run a normal set of pads on the road. It takes about 10-15 minutes per side to swap them out.
Isn't it advised not to mix road compounds onto discs that run aggressive compounds?

As in, you'd need a road set of discs and pads? I'm sure Carbotech or similar say the differing heat cycles and friction can affect the performance and surface of the disc.

I did toy with the idea for my Renault brembos and use the cheaper discs than 350z, but for the mileage I do wasn't worth the hassle, the fancy ceramic brake paste I got has made a huge difference to the noises. Tunap I think it's called.

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I’ll chirp in and mention I have a set of rs29 available that have covered half a day at spa.. will let them go for £140 and some 3k old project mu hc800 fronts £80 ish.

Also regarding rear pad wear , if you leave the VSA on at the circuit it will munch through them..
 
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Isn't it advised not to mix road compounds onto discs that run aggressive compounds?

As in, you'd need a road set of discs and pads? I'm sure Carbotech or similar say the differing heat cycles and friction can affect the performance and surface of the disc.

I did toy with the idea for my Renault brembos and use the cheaper discs than 350z, but for the mileage I do wasn't worth the hassle, the fancy ceramic brake paste I got has made a huge difference to the noises. Tunap I think it's called.

Sent from my LG-H870DS using Tapatalk

yep, as do stoptech, which is why i asked the question. it's more down the faff factor of getting the kit out to change pads and discs.
there would have a positive side - run some far cheaper low dust pads on the road that might not squeal as much as OEM or HC800's do, and something more grippy on the track. going that route would feel such a waste of the track kit sat in the garage for 360days a year. could maybe do a summer/winter brake setup like i do with tyres...

going to have to pass on the rs29's at this point in time dotty. money is focused else where and my hc800's probably have another 18-24months in them still so hopefully a disc&pad change once gone.
dotty - continuing with the brake theme, i've just asked the same on civinfo, i found one of your threads somewhere which you ran the dream drilled rear discs. short time later your photos showed you back on OEM solid's. any reason for that?
 
Isn't it advised not to mix road compounds onto discs that run aggressive compounds?


Me, Kevin85 and others regularly change pads. Nowadays though I just keep in RS29 all year round and I don't notice any abnormal wear when normal driving.
 
Isn't it advised not to mix road compounds onto discs that run aggressive compounds?
That’s right. Whatever pads you use, in particular the standard carbon metallic type, it will put some of its material onto the disc (can also cause brake judder if used in hard conditions).
Stick some sintered or ceramic based material pads in for example and you’ll contaminate the pads which could cause the pads not to perform how they should.
You can’t have brakes that perform both well on road and track. Unless you go fully carbon ceramic like cars with a 6 figure price tag.... You’ll always have to compromise.
 
I'm totally new to all this stuff. It would be really helpful to get some pointers on what I should change on my car to stop screwing it up on a track day (like brakes), where to get reasonable insurance and what to expect (like having to buy a new set of tyres). I've only driven on a track once in a Lambo Aventador and whilst great, 4 laps and its over! So I imagine I would like to get some tuition of some kind too.
 
OEM should be fine for a first time track day with tuition. Just make sure there's plenty of tread on the tyres, meat on the pads and oil up to the max level.

Yes, you might murder your tyres. It's recommended you do an oil service after too.

If/when you get into it then you should start looking at performance brake pads, track tyres & wheels. Suspension and power mods... you can spend a small fortune if you're not careful!
 
OEM should be fine for a first time track day with tuition. Just make sure there's plenty of tread on the tyres, meat on the pads and oil up to the max level.

Yes, you might murder your tyres. It's recommended you do an oil service after too.

If/when you get into it then you should start looking at performance brake pads, track tyres & wheels. Suspension and power mods... you can spend a small fortune if you're not careful!

I imagine I will murder the tyres as they are conti sport contact 6's. But they gotta wear out some time eh? I assume they have a tyre changing person on site at these things, for a fee? Don't want to get down to the thread and be unable to get home.

Any good insurance places? Generally been quoted 200+ just for one day with a whacking great excess.
 
Some circuits do have this but you'd have to check beforehand. A lot of circuits don't. People usually shove a spare set of wheels with track tyres in the boot and swap them over at the track.

I've never insured for a trackday personally.... But then again I've not taken a £25k+ car on track either :lol:

My advice is to get onto track with people you know, like a club day (HOT for example). That way you're less likely to get a chavtastic paint trader collecting black flags for fun. If people know it's your first time, they'll give you plenty of room and courtesy.
 
I dont consider myself properly experienced at trackdays, i've only been to 2-3. my experiences seem to be different than what some say.
first, brake fluid - upgrade it. I use ATE typ200 which can be got at a decent price from euro car parts with their various sales. near as doesnt matter, same temp to motul RBF600 which is the de-facto fluid for track use.
second, brake pads. ime, fast road pads (and thus OEM) wont cut it on the rear end. seems to contradict what experiences other have had however. Get something that can handle the heat - Dixcel Z, pMu HC800's, pagid RS29's etc (all 700-800C temp). things like the projectMu NS (around 450c iirc) will just turn to dust on track.

discs will be fine. mine have had a hammering and no issues with them but i suspect once they're worn out, it'll be beneficial to go high end discs down to lifespan.

tyres - i run dunlop RT2's and wore down maybe 1.5mm at most on 1 track day. 1 trackday and around 10k road and they still have 4mm left on them. the conti 6's are made of cheese so keep and eye on them or take a second set. Most seem to be recommending ps4s, and i'm planning cup2's when the RT2's expire.

events: i've only used MotorSport Events (aka MSE) that run airfield days. They're about the cheapest events around (abingdon is £130) and i've not found any stupidity going on at these events. plenty of room for error so excellent for new guys. you'll need a helmet (they rent 'em at a small cost) at bare minimum. driver training - try to get to the event early to get booked in with an early timeslot.
if your set on a race circuit day, check to see if they are allowing pro drivers on as this seems to cause issues for a few no-pro attendee's. a few thread on Pistonheads reguarding it and doesnt seem the best environment for new guys.

Insurance: i'm with A-plan as they give 5 trackdays/yr for £250 plus £1000 track excess as long as you get road insurance with them. They were the lowest i could find and came recommended. Ad-hoc cover seemed to be around that £200 mark you've found. You could try morris (https://trackday.moris.co.uk/) as when i was looking, they were not able to provide a quote due to some in-house changes they were doing.

miscellaneous stuff: dont worry about timing or speed. focus on being smooth, predictable to other drivers and your awareness of other drivers. Speed will come at a later time. Also, if your feeling intimidated or flustered or frustrated with others, come into the pits. i've been on track with new people who seem to be unaware of faster cars it became frustrating behind behind them. theres nothing to gain but everything to loose, so come into pits, calm down and by the time you go out again, they'll be off the track or else-where on the circuit away from you.

afaik, any UK event wont allow suction cup mounts, if you do, they gotta be secured by another method to stop them flying round the car when they come unstuck. Bolted, screwed, clamped systems are ideal.
 
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I just changed my pads back to oem from project mu hc800 and there’s a definite difference.

I wouldn’t run oem on a track ..

I have some pagid rs29 pads for sale which are very good indeed. They were used for half a day

(The rs29 make the project mu 800 feel like oem)
 
i'm probably a few years too early to ask this, is anyone running a 2peice disc setup and have any longer term thoughts on them? lifespan, cost effectiveness, performance etc... I've never owned, used or been in a car with 2 piece discs before so while i know the marketing hype around them, i dont have any real world experiences. my heart wants them but if they're not cost effect for primarily road use with track days 4-5 times/yr, then i dont mind swapping OEM's every 2yrs or whenever then need it.
Noise isn't a problem. the HC800's have been weirdly silent this year but didn't both me when they were squealing.

reason i ask is i found the start of a few small cracks on my OEM's yesterday. Currently ok, but i guess once they've started it'll progress quicker? It'll be having another look after fridays trackday to see how they've coped on track.
 
Drilled discs are pants on track, then again so are HC800. 2 piece discs are great but quite expensive. Then again they will most likely last longer than single piece.
 
not found the hc800's to be lacking (yet). I find these dunlop RT2's tyres to be the limiting factor on track right now so the hc's might start showing weakness once i go cup2. I will be going to rs29's pads next time to see what the hype is about :D

drilled discs do seem to have that reputation - all show, no go :p so while the initial cost of 2peice is high, the ongoing cost seems to be about 2/3'rds of new as your only buying the disc surface and not hub as well. is the buy-in cost worth it?
 
I run them, wouldn't use single piece again if I can help it. You should be replacing the hub part of 2 piece every two rotor changes IIRC.
 
not heard that one so far - is it a wear/fatigue thing or something else for hub replacement?
 
I can't remember the exact figure I was given, but the heat does eventually fatigue the hub/fasteners.
 
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