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Clutch/Syncromesh issue, please help.

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35
Hi all,

I recently purchase (on finance) a gorgeous milano red GT type R FN2, it's a 61 plate and also only has 50K miles on the clock. The problem i'm having is that I feel it's just really hard to change gear smoothly especially when giving it the beans in VTEC, sometimes when going from 1st to 2nd it'll crunch and then go in.

Also it seems like it slips slightly when changing gear under high load and then it feels like the clutch grips and you can feel it pull away again.

I really have to pull back hard to get it from 1st to 2nd to get it into gear and i'm a pretty strong guy.

I'm just so disappointed because i feel like i just can't get a perfect shift ever and iv'e had like 6 crunches in the first month of having the car.

I feel like it's me but iv'e seen that people have had a similar issue, people say how great the gear box is but honestly i feel like it's the worst gearbox iv'e experienced.

The problem is the garage is 180 miles away from where i live, i'm talking to them at the minute but what should i tell them? Is the clutch going?

Please help me I love this car and i really want to enjoy it :(
 
Just an FYI the car isn't hard to shift under normal driving but is still quite hard to get a normal smooth shift, it's only tough to move the gear stick under high load.
 
The biting point is close to the floor, much closer than my previous car was, so much so that i stalled away from the dealer :D

But yes it is very low, iv'e seen things about adjusting but i wouldn't know what i'm doing, is it possible this is the issue?
 
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Ha, I'm from Swindon too. Sounds like a new clutch needed, a bit early in terms of mileage. Changed mine at 94k and it made the world of difference. Don't think you can adjust the biting point. One thing I did was change the gearbox oil in mine, helped a little but was only delaying the inevitable. I used performance autoworks at Fairford to swap my clutch.
 
Yeah i was fearing that, i just hope the garage will get it sorted here for me. They can't expect me to drive the car another 180 miles and then get a lift back and then come back on a different day to drive the car back.
 
You should have 3 months warranty minimum, perhaps ask if it can be done at an approved place locally?
 
Yeah I am definitely going to push for that, iv'e just heard things about it being the syncromesh and other things. I just hope it's the clutch.
 
Mine was a PITA going from 3rd to 4th, particularly at high rpm. I used to have to let the revs drop to get it in gear. That, coupled with a near floor biting point hinted at the clutch. Sure enough, new three piece clutch kit and fluid, the gearshift is sublime ;) Make sure an oem honda 3 piece clutch kit is used along with MTF3 honda transmission fluid. If of course it is the clutch!
 
Sounds very much like the clutch as others have said. New clutch and clutch fluid and it will feel like a new car!
 
Mine was a PITA going from 3rd to 4th, particularly at high rpm. I used to have to let the revs drop to get it in gear. That, coupled with a near floor biting point hinted at the clutch. Sure enough, new three piece clutch kit and fluid, the gearshift is sublime ;) Make sure an oem honda 3 piece clutch kit is used along with MTF3 honda transmission fluid. If of course it is the clutch!

I thought the biting point will get higher if the clutch worn out. Am I wrong?
 
I thought the biting point will get higher if the clutch worn out. Am I wrong?

The friction disc very rarely wears out on these as there is relatively low torque to burn them out. The pressure plate goes sloppy meaning the bite point is low and in extreme cases you can't fully disengage the clutch and you get grinding going into reverse and first as both shafts are still in play in the box.
 
That sounds exactly like the issues i'm having, in the morning when i put the clutch down the car can judder and clunk almost like the clutch disengages in quite an aggressive fashion when it's cold. Also when i put it into reverse it's not exactly smooth and quite clunky. I can see strap marks on the holes in the seats where the previous owner clearly attached a harness, it has drilled and slatted discs all round so my theory is he tracked the car and even though it's only done 50k he's put a lot of wear on the clutch.

We'll find out when i get it replaced, the garaged wanted it back (200 miles away) to replace the friction disc but we settled on a £200.00 payment and them paying the VAT to get Honda in Swindon to put in a whole new clutch.
 
That sounds exactly like the issues i'm having, in the morning when i put the clutch down the car can judder and clunk almost like the clutch disengages in quite an aggressive fashion when it's cold. Also when i put it into reverse it's not exactly smooth and quite clunky. I can see strap marks on the holes in the seats where the previous owner clearly attached a harness, it has drilled and slatted discs all round so my theory is he tracked the car and even though it's only done 50k he's put a lot of wear on the clutch.

We'll find out when i get it replaced, the garaged wanted it back (200 miles away) to replace the friction disc but we settled on a £200.00 payment and them paying the VAT to get Honda in Swindon to put in a whole new clutch.

Sounds like your "track" day car thought is the right one.
Mines 2011 and at 49K miles the clutch & gear change are nice a smooth even at near red line changes.
Have had gear box oil changed but clutch fluid looks like it needs doing again, clutch is original as far as i know.
 
Yeah exactly mines the opposite, it makes me feel like i can't drive! It is possible to get a smooth change but it's 1 in a million. The fact that the biting point is very near the floor makes it very difficult and often results in revving over into the next gear or jumping into the next gear :(

I only hope the clutch change will solve the issue as the finance is 5 years :p
 
Hi all, just an update on the clutch and for anyone having the same issue. I had a genuine 3 piece kit installed by TGM yesterday. Although its early days and the clutch needs time to bed in I can feel the difference already.

The gear changes are ridiculously smoother, i couldn't believe it when i got in and felt the difference. Also the clutch pedal feels light as anything ( not sure if that's a good thing ) It's a bit early to tell if it's solved any issues regarding grinding as i did get a very small grind yesterday for a split second but perhaps that's me being a little hard on a new clutch. So i'm taking it easy for at least 500 miles before i do any spirited driving.

There were no metal shavings in the oil which is a good sign, the mechanic did state the fingers were excessively bent and just as loxy accurately predicted this was causing a lack of clutch disengagement.

Thanks to all that provided assistance, i'll update again in a month or so.
 
Hi all, just an update on the clutch and for anyone having the same issue. I had a genuine 3 piece kit installed by TGM yesterday. Although its early days and the clutch needs time to bed in I can feel the difference already.

The gear changes are ridiculously smoother, i couldn't believe it when i got in and felt the difference. Also the clutch pedal feels light as anything ( not sure if that's a good thing ) It's a bit early to tell if it's solved any issues regarding grinding as i did get a very small grind yesterday for a split second but perhaps that's me being a little hard on a new clutch. So i'm taking it easy for at least 500 miles before i do any spirited driving.

There were no metal shavings in the oil which is a good sign, the mechanic did state the fingers were excessively bent and just as loxy accurately predicted this was causing a lack of clutch disengagement.

Thanks to all that provided assistance, i'll update again in a month or so.

Light pedal is normal after a clutch change, had my EP3's clutch done at TGM as well and it was brilliant to drive after. Before that it was heavy, grinded 2nd/3rd and biting point was not right.
 
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