Recent content by CTR_Nick

The only tools you’ll need are sockets/Allen keys for your top half bolts (I swapped the OEM for stainless Allen head bolts cause the OEM were fooked), then whatever screwdriver/socket the jubilee clip on the pipe from the top of the box to the TB, 8/10mm socket for the nut and box to fix the...

The shop manual doesn’t give a step by step, but does have a list of component locations/exploded diagram. (Disclaimer, this is from the ‘03 manual, so yours may be subtly different) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IACV needs cleaning before looking at anything else. That and the cold air idle assist valve are the parts that get the cold start idle up to 2k from 500. (With the IACV and cold air valve blocked, and throttle closed a k20 will just about be able to idle around 450-500 with the air that leaks...

I had a knock going over speed bumps and potholes coming from the front O/S not long ago. Thought it was knackered dampers for a few weeks... eventually noticed it was actually down to a totally fcuked top mount. The rubber bush had disintegrated/failed and the shock assembly was just being...

I bought a headlight assembly from Mazda to fix mums car earlier this year. The look on the chaps in the sales office face when I picked it up and paid for it were a picture. Looked like they thought I'd gone totally mad and was going to stab them all or something. Assumptions are the mother of...

I'd be lucky if the increase was only £800! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Expect they would be fairly similar, but the jump to an FK2 from say an EP3 would be eye watering! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's not necessarily the car finance that does it for those of us under 25, it's just as likely to be the insurance. Also depends on where you live. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

£500 ish for an OEM from a specialists in the south all in (Perf Auto/TGM). TDI North do it cheaper I believe. You can get the kit for about £180 and take it to a local place. Wouldn't even want to know what Honda would charge. 12 miles a day is fine if it's mixed with some good A/B-roads, but...

If money is a problem then get what you can afford - unless you're heading out on track or looking to get nicked for dangerous driving you don't need to buy the best components for the car to be functional. As with all parts, aftermarket generally isn't quite up to standard and likely won't last...

Ironically the new Jazz's OEM front discs cost the same as the EP3 ones from Cox. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*MAP [emoji28] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unlikely to be down to just a filter - MAF would need to be blocked/dirty/malfunctioning also to screw up the AFR. Reduced flow would just mean the engine is down on power and/or struggles to idle, wouldn't expect it to cause a misfire if the sensors are reading correctly. What filter was on...

Possibly a problem with the sensors for air temp/pressure/flow etc. could be a leak in your air-box, could also be something on the exhaust side, bit of a long shot but covering the tail pipe or something or getting in if theres a crack in a low hanging part, electrical shorts is also a...

I've been told the same by the chaps at performance Autoworks and mates who work at cars. To say it's good practice is not quite accurate. If it's not showing symptoms it's purely a peace of mind job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk