Search results

Its a copper crush washer mate, its sorta hollow in the middle and when you tighten the plug onto the sump, the washer crushes to the desired shape .

Dc5 brakes can be mince if you use cheap parts, i always used standar brembo discs and pads and thought they were great , but im swappping to mtec grooved discs, ferodo ds performance pads , hel lines and ate super blue fluid

Im sure Trust is part of the GReddy family, see if you can find a GReddy part that matches it mate.

There not budget as such and i do see what you mean , but unless the car is getting thrashed lap after lap on track, you could save yourself over £500 going with the DC5 setup, I looked into the buddyclub kit and spoon calipers for my DC5, the car is a daily and gets driven fast on b roads at...

If its brakes on a budget, why not get a set of the DC5 brembo`s and s2k grooved discs, decent pads and your well cheaper than any of the other kits?

Depends on what fluid you use, but if the car is driven hard then every year would be good, i think normal fluid from honda is rated for about 3 years . It should make a fair difference , the dc5 brakes arent to bad to start with, but uprated pads and discs should help !

Although your in depth post there has clearly clarified the differences between low and high quality oil. If its pish then why is there such a market for Fuchs titan pro at £50+ for 5litres and not the stuff for £3-5 for 5 litres from any parts retailer with less adatives and so on? Same with...

chances are its just air mate, will do it good at the front if you havent had your fluid changed in a good while! Mines due in this weekend for braided lines/pads/discs and better fluid this saturday!

Do you mean the RSX armrest? I have a DC5 and they dont come with arm rests....

Sounds like air mate, If you didnt `crimp` the hoses when you took the callipers off, you can end up with air right back up at the ABS pump, if this is the case then you would need to do all 4 corners to eliminate the bubbles, as the long pedal travel is you compressing the air before the...

I wouldn’t necessarily agree with this , there is a MASSIVE difference between brands of 5w40 , the way the oil is produced and the additives that are included vary wildly , Nanodrive is rumored to contain tiny tiny tiny titanium particles , helping `lubricate` the bearings and other rotating...

Its just a potentiometer , it changes your signal from the MAP/MASS to alter what the ECU sees ,therefore tricking it into putting in more or less fuel. There is a very good reason a k100/kpro and dyno time from an expert cost allot of money. If you want to waste £75, bulk buy hellium and...

Personnaly i cant see these being worth anything , unless you know someone who has somehow broken there standard open diff, i would fire it on Ebay with 99p start, and if it goes for more than £20 then be happy....

if the earth strap is long enough i would just bolt it to another part of the chassis, if not i would just ask someone to make a longer one for you.

What sort of advice would you need? Does the earth strap no longer fit?

I had pressed plates on my MX5 and have them on the back of my DC5, ill try find some pics, the look legal from a few feet away , but look allot higher quality so to speak, i used http://www.platemyride.com/ , and they are fantastic quality! The front plate was held on with no more nails tape...

Just like the bonnet gets In the way of a spoon oil cap or rad cap, but I was more interested if people would like them ?

The girlfriends did this for a while, turns out it was the headlamp auto leveler thingy ...

Well i was thinking about gettting some clear ECU covers made, They would look roughly like the covers bellow but with the Hondata logo, So would anyone be interested in them? Clear cover would be £10 Clear cover with Hondata logo £17 So what do people think? Andy

Mugen twin loop isnt too loud...

You will gain a few bhp, but the most restrictive part of the system will still be the cats, its still a worth while mod if your slowly doing it bit at a time and will eventualy do kpro/aem Will also give a nice little noise!

To be honest, unless your mot/mechanic has advised you replace your pipes due to corrosion or damage, then there isnt really much need to change them... A good set of pads,good working calipers in good condition and some decent fluid and they will perform a million times bettern that just...

I could make you cry, i got my spoon n1 backbox, oil cap and rad cap for £270 , the honda near me were doing spoon bits and they were getting rid of them cheap!

No probs, i cleaned mine up with wheel cleaner then used a rotary polisher with some metal polish on it, looked brand new once done!

I managed to fit my DC5 ones without taking the subframe off, just had to cover them in wd40 and squeeze like hell!

i would check/change the oil first and make sure you clutch is bled and adjusted propperly ,it could be worn but the adjustment/flud change can sometimes eliminate the symptoms, and its worth checking it first as fluid is £24ish for the 2litres and clutch fluid is less than £10... If that...

I have the eibach pro kit, sits nice on them , but i fancy coilovers now! i would defo recomend getting a brand name of springs , if you get tenzo-r or another cheap brand you will regret it ...

You wont have any problem selling it for £200-£250 depending on its condition, its worth giving it a good pressure wash and polish if your looking for top money!

I've not tried the Buddy Club catback, but I have their race manifold, spoon b pipe and spoon n1 backbox on my DC5. I don't actually find it that loud, at 65ish mph you can still happily talk to each other in the cabin. I do have the bung... but never tried fitting it.

I do agree. Not that im against some fake things, i know there is people that dont want to spend £50+ on a gearknob or other shiny part , but if your funding a company thats making sub standard cheap parts , then thats where it all goes down hill. I had a `replica` short shifter in my eg6 and...

Yeah I've used them for a lot of work , suspension and engine ..pm`d you anyway

Id go with the chance that you have just bumped a pot hole and its knocked it out of alignment , if you take it to the place that did the alignment , they might check it for free. Also if you have plenty of meat on the other tyre , then there should be no need to worry about getting poor miles...

It can depend on the MoT tester "Reason for rejection" 4. A silencer in such condition, or of such a type, that the noise emitted from the vehicle is clearly unreasonably above the level expected from a similar vehicle with a standard silencer in average condition. So if the MoT guy thinks...

The tyres will last as long as your driving style will permit them.... 5k , 10k , 15k ... With the FRSU , depending on how much camber was put on , can effect the wear rate, but it can also depend on how much toe angle has been used, as that can chew through tyres.

Unless you are running your engine to extreme temps on track or crawling along in hot traffic with no cooling fan , then you shouldn’t really have to worry about 5w30 instead of 5w40 , as long as it is good quality oil and the filter was changed at the same time. The valve clearances might need...

Im with loxy, It only takes one big bump or pothole to knock the alignment off , i would also check the tyre pressures , that can also play a part.

Im not a great fan of funding people that are selling fake things, what if it was a fake set of lower arms, and they snap while you are doing 100+ mph?

Andy baird (Automek) is a great chap , but these guys http://kbmengineering.co.uk/ , in Hillington are the best you can get for suspension work, or any sort of rally or track prep!

I've heard that good heat wrap can help increase power by helping to promote higher velocities in the exhaust system, it will also keep engine bay temps down... would you not rather go for Zircotec coating? its maintenance free! whereas you need to keep checking heat wrap!

Here is all you will need to fit most things to a honda....redneck tool kit..

There not the best for a daily driver, but then neither is a lightweight flywheel or coilovers...and everyone else seems pretty willing to put up with them...

Got them for a bargain 450quid !!! i just need to get some injectors and a fuel pressure reg to run them

Thanks, Im not the biggest fan of the EP3 alloys, just havent seen anything else for a good price yet...

There 51mm jenvey itbs

:lol: Oh and its a set of MFactory 1-6 syncros in the box under the Torco MTF....

Well thought i should post up some of my build up.... Its a daily driver , thats going in a different direction ...no RBC manifolds here!!! So here is pics of how she stands the now... We so far have fitted : Buddy club 4-2-1 manifold. Spoon bpipe and n1 backbox. Eibach camber arms...

You could splash out, go wild, and get ITB`s?

The b16b in theory should sound most aggressive out of all the B`series it had the highest compression and the wildest cams as standard, along with a port and polish from the factory....

B16A/2 was from the EF to the EK B16B was EK9 only and was pretty much a de-stroked B18c integra engine B18c/5 was integra type r B18c4 was the civic 4dr and aerodeck B20 was CRV i think..... I had a b16b in my eg, was a screamer of a power plant!!!

Well i have been looking at coatings/wraps for a while... After doing a bit of research on coatings and wraps i have pretty much decided to go with Zircotec/woof coatings.... The problem with wrap is that if it is not done correct and not maintained then you can develop areas of high heat and...

This question really does depend on your budget, TODA and ARC to fantastic power gaining systems, and they come in titanium to save weight as well, but they are not cheap! What is your budget?

Here is the power graph from fitting the `power flapper`

http://www.hondata.com/featuresshift.html http://www.hondata.com/help/kmanager/index.html?revlimits.htm http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49112 All those should answer your questions mate....

Angled look for the win! Why follow the flock....may as well change it up a little...

I beg to differ! If the lambda sensor is gubbed and its running very rich then there is a chance, also if he had a `John deer power flapper`(Link) installed then the chances of flame are multiplied!

Obviously the stop the rain getting down the open tube....however they are also proven to increase power. Just like eco tech power boost valves,magnets round your fuel pipes and ripspeed 16v badges.

Well at the weekend i was at friend’s house, he had just installed the `John Deer Power Flapper` , now i was suspicious at first but it all made sense in the end, being from a tractor it guaranteed an increase of torque! , How many tractors all over the world have you seen fitted with these...

Im not the biggest fan of the parada spec 2`s i had them on before i swapped to the falken fk452`s , the falkens were far more grippy and predictive in the wet ! Although im not sure they are going to last quite as long as the paradas...id still choose them before the spec 2`s!

Id personaly stay clear of them, coilovers are only really designed for track use where they are not subjected to massive shockloads/height changes....although i think ohlins do a set with special oil valves inside that let them react to our `downtown basra` style of roads... Have a look at the...

They havent cracked or broken , there just a bit to soft at the rear and firm at the front ,so if you look at the pics of my car in the build thread you see its lower at the rear....i have fitted a good few sets of eibach pro sport and sportline springs , 150 quid then the same again for camber...

I have tenzo r springs on my DC5 , it doesnt sit quite right and the ride is crap on them....so i have just purchased a set of eibach sportline springs 30/35mm drop , as a rule of thumb i was always told not to go any lower than 40mm on standard shocks .....

How much do you reckon its shortened the throw? I was considering getting the hybrid racing shifter bush kit ( like the tegiwa kit but with bearings) , there ment to firm im the change and i feel it might be better value than a short shift kit....

Im pretty sure the DC header is based on the TODA one , which is regarded as pretty much the best you can buy! On the cat front, a friendly mot tested would suffice, or if your that way inclined a good custom exhaust place will weld/bolt you in a sports cat.....

I agree with 4Kas either a damaged/worn shock, bent lower arm or really a really worn bush!

That looks amazing!!! I mean for 200 quid you can get 10% more power ! Now bang for buck that’s amazing! However any slightly technically minded person that reads the literature below it will be able to pic up many many many flaws in it! But if you fancy wasting 200 quid for an afternoon of...

Halfrauds actually sell a little adapted that allows you to take the signal feed from one of your speakers at the rear, it is used where your original head unit does not have any pre-outs , so you wire that inline for your audio signal, then all you need to do is run the on signal from your...

I can recomend these... http://www.hybrid-racing.com/products/hr-shifter-bushings/ They come with bearings so ensure and even better shift, no re greasing of the centre bore/bush required!

Iv been CTRO rate these as even better than the RBC manifold! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30BHP-Power-Mod-Chip-Honda-Civic-Jazz-Accord-Crz-Crv-/200731749448?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ebc8b6c48 30bhp for under a tenner...that not a bargain? :lol:

Well to be honest we all know the RBC makes power, how much it will make depends on the condition of each engine and its supporting mods ....... TDi....i have heard about there dyno reading a little high sometimes ....but at the end of the day there is no propper way to work out engine...

[ LETS GET REEEEEADYYYY TO RRRRUUUUMMMBBBLLLEEEE......

enyone got a spare eg civic with 232 brakes i can have? ....then ill fit these :p !

Including painting them and so on ......80 quid!

Always wanted a set just for a laugh Ronal Teddy tims , 14" x 7" 4x100pcd ...

Well iv had these in my garage for a while...and thought id cheer some people up and start some pointless chat...

Im just not sure why you would need to fit resistors to limit the current if its a good quality LED, and if its not a canbus system with electrical monitering components then i doubt it will bring up any warnings with the lower current draw from the led`s...and again if there good quality and...

I dont really see the need to fit a resistor, if you buy good quality LED`s then they should be able to cope with the varying alternator load/output from 6v-16v without any problems.....

I have a set of these in the teg http://www.hids-direct.co.uk/xtec-auto-bulbs/xtec-led-bulbs/xtec-501-t10-5w-high-power-leds-sidelight-bulbs-white-p-435.html The pretty much match the standard hid`s ...

Iv Just fitted new sparco ones to mine last night uses the same clips and same style of fittings just with a fancy sparco cover, the DC5 takes a 24" on the drivers, 20" on the passenger and 20" on the rear....ill post up some pics tonight

I got my exedy clutch with new pilot/release bearings from the US ebay, they even marked it as a gift for me so it was not far off 80 quid cheaper than buying it from the uk! always worth looking for things like that over there!

Sparco wiper blades, look bawler! and in my mind there just as good as the bosch ones...but for a few quid more for the name. Also mega easy to fit! if you can fit a light bulb you can fit wiper blades! http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/wiper-blades/sparco-aero-wiper-blade

In my dc5 i get 350miles ish to 45litres and thats with the odd birst of vtec...

Your lucky if i filled it up 4/5 times a year, when you think how long the `bursts` are when you use it .....10/20/30 seconds at the most really...

Yeah not the sort of stuff you would be using to pull out of junctions at 7am when your rushing to work!

Im sure it was a 11lb bottle i had, was £60ish to fill and with 35ish bhp jets it was circa 10mins in total from the bottle ....

the nitrous controler would have nothing to do with the Kpro as it is a stand alone unit, a wet nitrous kit adds its own fuel to compensate for the extra oxygen that is being supplied to the engine.

From any one of these http://www.noswizard.com/index.php/nitrous-control/nitrous-controllers.html?SID=qog65sns5q0gbjimjpdiiudd96 Kpro has your air/fuel map on it .....that nos controller is a stand alone bit of kit...i dare say the kpro will have nitrous options on it .

people run 50+ bhp extra on standard engines when they fit supercharges and turbocharges....no reason why a well set up nitrous system should be any more detrimental or dangerous.

80 bhp seems a bit excessive but i don’t see why 50bhp jets should do any harm You want a wet kit fitted as this injects nitrous and the required extra fuel , and with the maximizer controller it means your engine takes less of a beating , you can set it to start with say 35bhp and increase it...

Yes.

I thought the new laws on it were out already , you need the propper projection lenses with washer jets as well ...or so I've heard?

Im in glasgow mate, its only a few hours and a few hundred miles but ill happily fit them for a pat on the back and a pint of lager?!

Yellow all for the win!!!

If you sell the fence as well you would be even more well endowed in the financial department!

Id love to see a yellow ep3 , or a sort of lambo orange!

Fitted a set of these to the DC5...well worth the 23quid!

Alright mate, I stay in paisley, im more than happy to fit it for you....pm me.

I can highly recomend these http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/7pce-screw-bolt-extractor-set?da=1&TC=GS-040219431 I have the set for removing rounded bolts, fantastic tool to have in the garage!

Yeah thats what i thought, just the ARB that can get in the way....well the manifold is here ready to be fitted so ill post up the results!!

For a whole 20quid it does make some difference in the winter with all the dirt/salt on the roads....if your of a simple mind or just skint and want a cheap mod...i can highly recomend it!