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Very true for DTM, but in fairness it's rivals were also highly tuned. BTCC was much more akin to road cars and the Calibra improved on the Cavalier in many ways. I'll see how an NSX compares to it before writing one of them off.

Thanks gents I'll keep you updated. FK2 had a look in, but I was quite disappointed on a test drive. In it's defence the RS4 is 4WD so will be good on wet trackdays. And has carbon ceramics available, and is cheap compared to the others! Calibra's are criminally underrated. Strong chassis...

Shortlist is (in order of preference) 911 Turbo Calibra E92 M3 Supercharged NSX RS4 V8

I know. All good things come to an end! Nothing lasts forever.

I've now decided to move on from this, to a new project so it'll be sold/stripped shortly. New project won't be a Honda unfortunately! It's been a pleasure gents.

Panels have arrived! Mega light. I estimate the OEM boodlid is around 25-30kg with glass. The glass extends to the vertical face as well, adding more weight. The new bootlid is under 2kg, maybe ~5kg with acrylic windows in it. Doors are less of a saving maybe 15kg each side...

Just an update on my CRX's weight saving programme Phase 1 is now complete: Bespoke lightweight wiring loom Aluminium calipers Titanium exhaust FRP wings FRP bonnet FRP bumpers Sunroof delete Headlights delete Phase 2 is now underway: Firslty these are on order from Radical. I am going to...

I've also upgraded the ECU to a Kpro, supplied by Jcal. upload pic This will hopefull enable me to fault find a running issue I currently have.

Sorted my headlight gap out with these 3d printed headlight blanks. There's a cold air duct in one of them too, which lines up with the intake. And it's a 5kg weight saving!

Maybe look for trailing arms for sale on eBay, with photos good enough to work from

Grinspeed can supply and fit the Mfactory, shimmed correctly (key to reliability), with new bearings.

I've seen a set of £220 steel rods and £1100 steel rods that are identical

I wonder if the "branded" arms are made by a trusty Yorkshireman, or in the same China factory as the knockoffs?

DC5 mani and cat are reasonably good. A DC sports manifold would be an upgrade though! Goes well with a 3" exhaust and RBC you should be able to see over 260bhp

Don't bother with the throttle body Your exhaust will be holding you back if it's not 3"

I bought a cage for mine and ran it in the boot for better weight distribution. Net result is 12kg weight loss on the front end.

Crimp on the correct ring terminals onto your wiring.

Yes absolutely. Plenty of juice in them, mine's been left 3 months over winter and still started the car fine! Cannot recommend it enough.

Have a look for an "Odyssey 680" battery, you can get them with all sorts of neat alloy cradles as well. You'll save a good few kilograms in weight there, right where you don't want weight (front end!)

Just not if you just want to brag to your mates down the pub about BHP figures!

Not particularly expensive. If you go to a good setup place (eg Grinspeed), you can tell them how you like the car to handle and they'll dial in the geometry to suit. For example I prefer mine more planted at the rear than most people.

Good shout

I'd recommend a 3" solid fabrications system on mine, with same inlet, same exhaust manifold as you and it made 270.1bhp. Try and stay away from the "scene" Jap brands as you're more often paying for the name.

If you're wanting the 250ish mark then RBC, a 3" exhaust and a map should get you there. I'd suggest the money would be better spent on a big brake kit, tyres, geometry setup etc. Far more fun ways of making your car fast.

As title, what size are people running? 1.5L?

Kenwood make a good under-seat subwoofer. Nothing earth-shattering, but definitely better than OEM sounds

Bump, any FK2 / FK8 times?

Ditto I had them on my E46 M3 and they were excellent, even on long stints at the Ring lapping in the low 8's Would recommend.

If my memory is correct there's a set screw on the throttle body you can use to adjust the idle.

They are studs. Something like M6. Measure the thread size and length and order off ebay. They'll be pennies new. Or try using two nuts locked together to wind them out of your old manifold and move them across.

You could run two sets of wheels Set 1) With Rainsport 3's for road use, and wet tracks Set 2) With a proper semi slick for dry/damp track use In the long term it'll be cheaper than running your current tyres which are more of a jack-of-all-trades tyre

Great video

It's not necessary, the whole wheel is done, inside and out.

I've never had issue with powdercoated wheels on various track cars. At £20 a rim, it's very good value too.

Here's an unusual one - brake pad retaining clip! This caused me the same problems, after changing the same parts!

Is it like a metallic shimmering sound? If so then cat or driveshaft heatshields are really common to make awful noises

Each to their own I suppose. My findings were on the contrary. Managed an 8:12 on the Ring with an EP3, on DS2500's. Zero fade in 6 hard laps.

Not trying to be a dick about it, I'm just very picky about what I fit to my car. It has to be the best.

Sorry I beg to differ. It's the pad of choice for anyone serious about brakes. If and when a better pad comes out I'll be happy to jump ship and give it my recommendation.

You're right, the brakes are the weakest point on the car. Quite under servo'd too compared to modern stuff. DS2500 pads are widely used and loved :smt004

I've got an AEM one, it's decent.

Getting a proper LSD would help too

This. It's a buyers' market.

I use velcro. Removable then for photoshoots, trackdays, bank robberies etc

See this for some ideas: https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?98142-Partyvan-s-270bhp-N-A-track-slut

If it's a track car then you might consider re-shelling it into something like a Civic EK Reasons 1) Much lighter than the EP2/3 2) Double wishbone front suspension, they turn in MUCH nicer :) 3) Lots available, and cheap 4) Manual and hydraulic steering options Only real downside...

Fair shout, I'm inclined to agree :)

Last week I finished off the aero mods on the CRX The front splitter was made with 3mm aluminium sheet, supported by steel pipe, crushed at the ends to make a mating surface and bent in a vice to the correct angle to allow it to mount to the splitter and the car frame. The whole lot was then...

That would be my choice. Less drag on the engine. No need to change rack. Adjustability!

Yes it's been done. Or you could fit another EPAS system which is adjustable, eg Saxo/106/Corsa... all of which have controllers available to adjust their feel.

http://www.stuke.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=83

Steel wool is the best on windscreens too. Ideal step before glass polish and Rainex.

If you're keeping the engine/car long term, give it an overhaul and rebuild to make it right, and make it last. If you're not, and/or you're on a budget - bounce it back to the seller. A leakdown test could also give you some more insight.

Very nice. Welcome :)

If you're not willing or able to regularly spend £££'s on diagnostics, repairs, servicing and above all preventative maintenance this is not the car for you. They cannot be properly run in the long term on a low budget. You can expect at some point to need a clutch and gearbox repairs, that's...

Starter motor. Very common.

A wet Cadwell Park meant I couldn't take my CRX on track, so this got put on! It was so wet, but in many ways the car was well suited to the track and conditions. Bags of torque and grip meant it wasn't overtaken once all session, and got some bemused questions from a group of Megane...

If you do use them, don't use the rubber bands in an oval. Wrap them in a figure of 8.

I run crankcase and cam cover to atmosphere

At idle, make sure there is a clicking sound from the valve when the hose between the valve and inlet manifold is lightly pinched. If there is no clicking sound, check the grommet for cracks or leaks. If grommet OK, replace valve and recheck.

Worry less. Enjoy it more.

Thanks that's not a bad shout

I've deleted the EVAP valve on my K-swap, so I now have the engine light on. Apparently "emissions check" needs to be disabled on the Hondata K100 ecu. Can anyone do this for me? Based in Newark, Lincolnshire

Good job. It's the small things that make the difference

Nevermind, I'm gonna make my own

Hi could somebody measure their splitter for me please? I'd be hugely grateful! Thanks

I built it for mainly track use, and the odd weekend blast... but since completing it it's utterly dire to drive on the road. Hitting a catseye in it is like hitting a pothole in an EP3. It's awkward to get in and out of. It's really uncomfortable! So I SORN'd it last month and don't plan on...

Ta mate. The silencers are really skinny on my old system. That was the issue!

Couple more pics of the exhaust :) I am now working on the aero package

Was it better before the map / before the chain?

What a busy week! The CRX has been in at Flux Fabrications for a few days having the new exhaust made. Here's it is on the bench. Middle section weighing next to nothing! All finished, with burnt tips. 10.2kg weight saving over the original 3" system. And down from 116db to 92db static...

Update time. My only dislike of this car is the grandad grey interior! So I've now swapped everything to black!! I've also always wanted a car painted in a subtle flip paint. Nothing Max Power! I'm not in a position to do that yet so I've settled for getting the interior trims done in a...

CRX update: In tomorrow for an exhaust! TT update: I did a restoration on the headlights, including UV protection. Pictures don't do them justice I'm afraid! And I had a sunstrip fitted, an absolute must on any car in my opinion :) It's also now polybushed and awaiting geometry setup and...

It'll also depend on the temperature.

Here's a little video of the TT at a wet Cadwell Park, against a Caterham and a BMW M4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9g92EOAxNTA

I've been doing suspension upgrades on the TT! Lots of them. More on that soon. I've also been working on the DSG overheating issue and decided on functional bonnet vents. My first task was to mask up the bonnet, then draw on a centreline, and reference lines to areas of single skin...

You should be getting a lot more miles than that.

Here's a video of the quarter mile from Pod :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJiHx-Z7XmI

Another vote for Eibach springs with uprated shocks Get your wheel alignment done properly too, that'll make a world of difference.

Drill a small drain hole in each bottom corner? Wouldn't be visible.

As above, very likely a heatshield. I bin them off.

6 pots from the Golf. My problem is I only replaced the fluid in the front circuits, the backs is still old fluid. I'll flush the lot and swap for some decent fluid!

On the plus side I had a wicked day at Cadwell in the TT. It was wet for most of the day, so me and the car were in our element! I overtook 30+ cars, including several Caterhams and a BMW M4 owned by an absolute **** who was very rude to my brother in law. I wasn't overtaken once! It...

Today saw a Frustrating session at Santa Pod... it started leaking clutch fluid and coolant. Managed a 13.2 @ 118mph. Drag racing front wheel drive is like playing football with your shoelaces tied. And in the case of naturally aspirated, with your pants rounds your ankles too. I'm on a bit...

These guys https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/

Back to the CRX I made the trip once more to MIJ exhausts, who'd seen pictures of the system they made and told me it could be made quieter with an additional box. Arriving at MIJ they told me they couldn't fit any more boxes in! Total waste of time! In frustration I headed home, then on to...

Thanks gents! Yes coilovers and brakes are, but sadly not the seat subframes or exhaust!

Yes they do sound lovely

Slightly off topic, but I've been busy elsewhere! My CRX is totally unsuitable for our British winter trackdays. That led me to seek a cheap, disposable, 4WD, wet weather track car. Something that a Mk4 Golf V6 4motion did nicely. The car runs great in the wet, often being quicker than 90% of...

Yes for hard track use within the UK No for road use / moderate track use. No for Nurburgring.

A solo blue wire is normally a trigger wire for an amp. I could be wrong though, check the manual? Look for any substantial piece of metal behind the dash, then look for existing earth points you can attach via a ring terminal

They are an excellent mod for an EP3. The best value mod for you right now? Maybe not. I reckon you'd get more benefit and pleasure from a good suspension and geometry setup. Or better still, a big brake kit. The right time for you to do it? Maybe not. If you wait and do it when you need a...

It's all progress now chaps! I've done about 50 road miles in it without much issue. I have a second set of wheels, Team Dynamics Pro Race 3's, which I intend to use as dry track tyres. I bought 2x 225/50/15's AR1's and fitted them to a pair of these wheels. I've read nothing but praise for...

Now finished, MOT'd and taxed!!!

That's because I've only ever known a couple of people dislike them I've ran them on many cars, as have my buddies. Never had an issue in 50+ sets, other than one set cracking on a Clio Awesome pads. I wouldn't fit anything else

Red for me!

For a road car I'd buy the cheapest discs I can find on eBay. Then some good branded pads like Brembo.

Delete it. You can buy the correct grub screw for pennies off ebay.

Be sure to go on an extended test drive to be sure it's right for you. I drove an FK2 and an FK8 and was heavily disappointed. They are not as good as older Hondas.

Is it rusted that badly? I thought EP3's were reasonably solid