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The problem with k20 is the cranks can't be reground, as they have a hardened coating on them. Many people have tried and it never lasts. You'd be better off sourcing another k20, or as said above source a k24 and build a frank engine. Though that costs around 1500 once you've got all the extra...

Pics aren't working. But I've seen loads fail in the same way. Some say to cut the balance bit off to save the corrosion, but it's just a case of when it will happen I guess. Which did you go for in the end? Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

The shafts are well regarded. But the cv boots they fit are awful and don't last at all. I changed the boots before I fitted some to my old A3, they're still going strong 3 years later. I'd go for those, insane driveshafts and tegiwa etc will probably be very similar just significantly more...

I don't think many cars would be able to get that sort of power down on a cold wet road. Even our Superb with 140bhp will spin the ps4s in 2nd! My ep3 is a handful in the wet even in 3rd with a lsd and not torque to speak of. I've never tried full wet tyres though, I've heard they make a huge...

I'd say Calibra and rs4 stand out on the list, I'd certainly prefer the other 3! But whatever you go for I'm sure you won't be half assing it. Please update on here when you do decide. [emoji106] Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Crowds I think he means once the camber is dialled in to any reasonable amount, you can't get the toe correct as the arms are too long and run out of adjustment. The tegiwa arms you linked to are generally well regarded, they did have some issues with early ones with corrosion, but tegiwa...

I have these on my ep3 and I'm fairly sure you need spigot rings to go from 67.1 to 64.1, but I'd double check that. You will also need the Mitsubishi type flat seated wheel nuts. They don't use the conical/radial type you find on most oem/aftermarket wheels. Hope this helps. Sent from my...

If its just to go between the painted strut tops and the painted brace it'll be fine. Not that there will be any movement but I'm sure it would reduce friction and prevent and moisture getting in there. Worth a shot. Are you don't with mods for the TT now or do you have a few more planned...

That's more of a sealant. Some of the merc recalls used a cavity wax actually. Between door hinges and A pillars. Something like that would do the trick. If the surfaces are painted then very unlikely for it to run through either piece. Do you think there's likely to be an issue or just for...

Acf is very runny and almost oil like. I use it on my coilovers but I think I would have preferred to use grease in hind sight, as it needs frequent application even with neoprene socks on them. It just gets washed away by water after a while. I'd say it's more suited to protection of parts...

Well that's as good as a licence to print money. Fill your boots. Yes my darling it's always been like this. Enjoy, it's a lovely machine. [emoji1783] Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

I'll definitely say she won't notice mate. [emoji85] Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Haha, I love that moment of 'what have I done!' when you realise she will see/hear it and notice. It sounded nice before, not the usual forced farts and pops everyone seems to love these days. Look forward to hearing the change! If the wind is right we might even hear it over here by the sound...

What is the next project likely to be then? You don't seem to do them by the half! [emoji12] Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

For the money they're an excellent option in my opinion. For mainly track I'd recommend some decent pads. Carbotech have worked really well for me, though next time I'll try the RSL29 pads as heard nothing but good things about them. The pads are expensive but these carbotech have lasted ages...

Mine are also standard rears, just running pbs pads to deal with the heat a bit better. Luckily I did as one rear caliper seized on a few months later and the disc was glowing put pads were fine! Mike were from projekt k, or k system pro. It's a polish company. Freaky parts also do a kit...

I run the megane kit. I like that the calipers are easy to source as are the discs (350z or slightly cheaper Morano) which gives a fair bit of choice to pads and discs. So far I haven't had any fade or issues at all. The carbotech pads I run have help up well on track, if a bit noisy and dusty...

Innovate do a combined oil temp and pressure which I have had for a year or 2. I've not had any issues with it and happy with how it performs. It has pressure in the centre as a numerical display with various settings and the temp is a configurable circles of leds which are able to be green...

Silicone spray would do as a temp solution. It's low friction and won't cause issues with the rubber. But it will only last 5 minutes. You'd be better off locating the noise with that, then working some rubber grease into it. Make sure it's rubber grease as normal grease will eat into the rubber...

How are the whoosh noises? Always wanted one of those for our A4 but never got round to it. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Sounds like it went well overall! I have the hybrid shifter and cables. Shift is incredibly short but very precise. Certainly not asking for a mishap when shifting at all. Did you try adjusting the throw at all? That's a shame about running with no vtaks! But, once resolved will make it a much...

TGM in Fleet is another option. Very well rated garage. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Nice! Did you decide on CR? I'm sure it's a fair investment, but not worth much broken to you or anyone else. It'll be worth it when it's all done and dusted. [emoji41] Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Hopefully Tom comes up with something for you. [emoji1696] Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Do clockwise motion do one for the fn2? Might be worth contacting them directly? Seems a shame to drop the sump and not fit one really. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

There's very little to gain from one, if any. I've heard reports of them causing inlet manifolds to crack due to differing thermal expansion as well. Personally I wouldn't bother. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

I've seen him on the Track Time Facebook page. That golf with him in it goes really well! Lovely bit of kit he's built. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

I'd give them a call tomorrow just to check it was in stock etc. They're really well regarded and set up loads of the civic Cup cars. Hopefully they have it in stock for you! [emoji1696] Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

You need a dedicated ABS code reader. Foxwell unit on amazon for around 130 is the best one I have used. Obd dongles, cheap code readers etc will only talk to the engine control unit. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

That's a shame, it would be nice to have it all done in time. Good luck with the others, I can't think of any others now, if any come to mind I'll post here. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Have you tried all the main Honda garages? Tgm, area, tdi North, cpl, etc? See if they have it in stock? Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

I'm sure they will do nicely. I've got xp8 or xp10 in mine and have been really pleased with them. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Worst part about that is front pads low. Won't a new set cost about the same as the service? Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

No idea how much but you remove some of the drag on the engine with the balance shafts. Read through Loxy's fn2 thread, I'm sure he mentions the delete at some point. That might give you some info. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

I've always heard that it depends on the tyres etc. Semi slicks you will need one. Some people just overfill the oil by a litre. That is quite an investment to get it sorted in an fn2. Though don't you gain some power etc at the same time? Tough call as you could get an engine for that money...

That's a lot better than I imagined actually. I think on a run ours would manage 50+ given half a chance on a decent run. But it's not too bad, round town etc seems to rinse through the fuel. Sometimes we get 400 to a tank, others nearer 600. I didn't think it would vary quite so much! Sent...

What's the mpg like on the petrol? I've always been a bit disappointed with the diesel, average around 40 with little motorway miles. It's a big heavy car though I guess. Ours is the same colour and L&K model, so has most the toys in it. They're a lot of car for the money. The v6 will sound...

I've got the 2.0tdi variant, lovely place to be. The petrol one must be a nice drive with dsg and they come fully kitted don't they? Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

That's a decent increase in power. I'm glad you're happy with the results. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

That's a shame you won't get before and after, but glad you're happy with the increase so far. It will be nice to have some figures to chat about though. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Vtec is usually tuned to where the high cam makes more power than the low cam. So any guess work changes will most likely lose you power despite being in Vtec sooner. A k100 with the cpl reflash is the cheapest way, though the map is horrible on it. Best option is a k100 and a remap for making...

No idea on torque figures. It was just the bluefin so I took the numbers with a pinch of salt anyway. I didn't have any clutch issues and it always felt manageable. Just checked their site. 300nm to 330nm. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

It was an 07. BUL from memory. I know things have moved on a bit, but similar numbers so I'm sure it will put a smile on your face. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

My a4 was a 2.0tfsi and went from 220 to 250 ish, made a real difference to how it was driving. Much more power lower down. A big torque increase without being a spike. That was a bluefin box, which I was really happy with. A dyno chart is always nice to look at to see where the increases are...

Yeah that sounds typical for a WOT tune on a dyno. Very little interest in part throttle which always seems mad to me. Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

That's definitely not a good sign then. My second tune with him was just a tweak but it did seem fairly quick. 45 mins I was in and out. But it drove really nicely. Since then I've used Jesse twice and his attention to detail is really good, AFR is bang on the whole way through the rev range...

He's tuned my car twice in the past and I was happy with the results both times. Is this based on bad experience? I see he's doing a lot for Syvecs and huge spec GTRs etc. Maybe the Honda jobs were just a side project? Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Paul or Romain? Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

I'm sure I've heard the spoon is just a rebranded Honda item from the crv. I'd like a 5.33, I spose a crv box could be had fairly cheaply thinking about it? Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

I'd go for the Honda, purely because the release bearings get noisy. My exedy has done 6k, 1500 miles of that was charged and running 360bhp. Only gripe is the release bearing has started to sound a bit dry, but I don't use it much, hence the 6k in 3 or 4 years! For the extra 30 or 40 quid I'd...

If it ever happens to mine, I'd go k24 with some decent cams and the k20 vtc gear. Area motorsport have done this on some of their enduro cars with good results, very similar to a frank build but with lower costs I'd have thought. The bottom end could have been caused by previous oil...

Gates, dayco, conti there's plenty about and I've fitted hundreds of each in the past and no longevity issues with either in my experience. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Definitely after market. I generally go for original parts (I work for a merc truck dealer) just because they're correct and fit with bi issues and generally any parts warranty actually counts. But a belt never seems worth it if you find a good branded one. The sizes are on them and I've never...

I've never heard of any success long term with reworking the crank. They have a coating which once ground is no longer present and will wear away any bearings etc. Another engine or a k24 frankenstein seems to be the most popular option for bottom end failure. Certainly the way I'd go if that...

Hi Baz, I've got a viofo a119 which was recommended on here but I forget by who. It's really discreet which is what I wanted. I've mounted it as close to the rear view mirror on the passenger side as possible so it's out of my vision. As it's got the camera on an end, it's really hard to see...

I've heard people running the really cheap ones are rock hard, but other than excessive vibration I've not heard anything else negative. I've had pretty good success with filling the voids of mounts with Tiger Seal. It's basically the same as the poly inserts. Cheaper and easier to do. Worth a...

You're wrong Chris, the ferodo are top notch! After every track day you get a free right foot massage while braking for a week or so. [emoji6] I think it's just the entry level performance brake pad, so miles better than eicher etc. But pbs were miles better, then carbotech miles better than...

An old school impact driver that you hit with a hammer is usually the best bet. Failing that, most of them you can easily break by hitting the disc off anyway, the head will snap off and then you can undo the remains with some mole grips. Hoping they come out easily for you! Sent from my Mi...

Red to red, black to black then disconnect in same manner. Just make sure the leads don't touch each other or anything else until disconnected both ends. Another option is the little battery packs, they're about £40 and work a treat. Same size as a phone charger battery pack just with some...

I had the opposite effect! Not massively low on coilovers, tried wheel alignment and couldn't get rid of the bump steer. So removed the rack raiser and it's miles better now! Area will be able to measure any bump steer and advise if any rack raiser, inverted track rods ends etc will be needed...

In theory yes, but I have no experience of this. Can't see why it wouldn't work, who doesn't like la cucuracha! Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

I'm not too clued up on the North but area motorsport for anything steering or suspension related for me. They'd be able to advise you of any issues and sort any geometry problems you might have. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Grounded via the horn switch and steering column bud. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Don't bother with a TB! Loads of issues with skunk 2 ones sticking and maybe 1 or 2 hp peak difference anyway. Much better things you could be spending the money on. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Always best to be sure though. [emoji106] What sort of power are you making? Assuming you've been tuned to suit the mods... Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Hi, Do you mean the little right angle pipe at the fan belt side of the engine? If so, mines been venting to atmosphere for years. The manifold doesn't have the fitting as you say, so the inlet side is vacuum tight, just any crank case pressure can come and go as it pleases. Everything I read...

I used 2 to do the inner sills cavities. That was a decent coating. Then used Por15 for the external stuff. Should do the job nicely. [emoji106] Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

I used bilt hamber dynax cavity stuff. Gets really good reviews and seems to last a long time in cavities. Comes in an aerosol and goes quite far. It has a long tube nozzle with loads of holes so gives a good all over coating. Definitely worth looking into. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

It doesn't take long for the majority of oil to run down into the sump. Say 10 mins max. The difference being cold, warm or hot is very little really and certainly not enough to worry about. That's interesting regarding your oil findings, I'm sure it has put your mind at ease. I'm always...

Is there an inspection hole? Basically anywhere yiu can stick a screwdriver in to stop it turning really. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

They're brilliant, I use mine for anything my little 3/8th one won't undo really. You soon gauge how tight things are. Once you've used the battery impact guns, you'll wonder how you ever managed without! Quick search shows £150 from ffx for the gun, then I'd get an ebay battery or 2. 4 or 5AH...

Yeah Dewalt ugga dugga for the win. I use one daily for work. Undoes truck wheel nuts with ease, so 600+Nm. They're about £200 for a kit or 140 ish bare if you have batteries already. The impacts are small and not constant torque, so as said above, it'll rattle it loose while not turn the...

I think I'd sooner just take the bumper off before any of that! Surely a flat floor would be the better way to go about it? Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

What sort of power would you hope for? And what is it currently? That one sounded nice, bet it would be an absolute animal with even more torque and horsies going on. Do it, do it now! Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Yeah I get size and weight must be big points to consider for this build. The turbo plan sounds good, I've never heard of a remote mounted turbo before. But can't see why it wouldn't work, obvious minor downsides you've listed apart. Dare I ask for an estimated budget for the rebuild and...

Love the logic of this. The outcome is going to be amazing! Makes sense for the outlay versus potential to be fair. Would a k20 make more sense than a B for going the turbo route? Just thinking the cost of building the B would buy a decent k20 wouldn't it? Not trying to pick holes in your...

Our 2 litre tfsi audi used a litre every 1k miles pretty much on the button. I'd just reset the trip and bang a litre in most times without even dipping it. Ran perfectly and they had a known issue of piston rings causing the oil to burn. I still did an oil change annually, even though in the...

Insurance normally offer temp cover for new or old. It's fairly expensive but will do what you need it to. Give them a call and they'll offer it. I'm sure years ago I was offered up to a month when changing cars mid policy. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

It was mapped by Jesse at j cal. It's just using the nitrous input to the ecu to retard the timing on over run. I've got a little switch in the glove box as I only used it to annoy some friends. That's without the bung, that reduces the drone and volume a fair bit. With the charger the bung...

Not sure if this will work. Most recent clip now NA again. http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5e36c1a76c20e/VID-20191219-WA0016.mp4 Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Happy birthday bud! That's a good start to getting in track, someone who knows what they're doing to show you the ropes. You'll be hooked before you know it. [emoji4] Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Wheels in motion used to get rave reviews a few years back, I think they're down that way? Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Ah okay, I gained about 15bhp peak when I went from 2.5 centre pipe and standard silencer to their 3 inch system. I can't find the dyno charts now, but it was a gain throughout the rev range from memory. Whether it's worth the £500 ish fitted and mapped, that's down to you! Sent from my Mi...

I heard that Mini had problems with these popping over severe pot holes and were replaced under warranty. So it might be worth a try! Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

£33 for a kit with pre paid envelope etc Inc anaylsis and 60ml bottle to fill. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Fred the most straightforward way of doing this would be to send off an oil sample. We use FAST at work and they come back with thorough results. They post a test kit to you and results come back in a few days. That would eliminate a lot of stress and worry. That and a second dipstick to ensure...

Are you planning to get it mapped at some point to suit the mods? Or adjusted if it has been already? Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Must be bad Crowds if the flakes of rust aren't even showing in an image! [emoji23] I just used brake cleaner and blew it all off with an air line to make sure it wasn't greasy and painted it on. Seemed okay, but would be better to follow their instructions I guess. I had some of it ready and...

Yeah I brushed any bits of surface rust and gave it the base coat and top coat. I filled the inner sill voids with dynax wax and as much paint as I could as they were fairly bad. I didn't bother putting the grommits back in as I'd rather the water can escape again. So far so good, the rust...

I have one, fairly loud and droney but the bung makes it a lot better. I think I've blown some of the wadding out with my supercharger though. Last track day it was 94 without the bung and 88 or 89 with it from memory. That's with a dc sports manifold. It makes good power too, so I can't knock...

I suppose he may as well be classed as working there now. I wonder if he got invited to the Christmas do! Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

How do the insurance deal with your mileage? SD&P 5k, commuting 5k and 5k back and forward to various garages?! Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

I'm fairly sure I've seen EFI in runcorn mentioned with regard to this. I haven't used them personally, though I've heard good things. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Just to add, I had read bad things about k tuned (as a brand overall) TPS being unreliable. Acuity had a lot more reviews and all positive, so that is why I went for that one. Price wise there wasn't much in it. Just thought I'd mention it. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

I fitted an acuity hall effect sensor from tegiwa recently, works a treat and should last long term. As far as I can tell all fitment is the same for k20 set ups. So could he an incorrect part if its from a factors. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Mines been left open for the last few years with no issues. First on my rbc, then Rotrex and now skunk 2. You've checked the obvious so I'd have a chat to Jesse and see if he has any ideas or can plug the car in and have a look. It could be as simple as adapting the throttle positions again...

I'd upload it to youtube and post the link here. It's a difficult one to get to the bottom of. Have you tried cleaning the idle control valve and resetting the ecu parameters? There's a guide on the forum of how to do it I believe. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

Just to clarify, Genuine Honda parts should be used here. OEM meaning original equipment manufacturer, generally the same brand brand and same product in a different box and a different price. But in some cases the products can be inferior. These days I find the cost difference between genuine...

Mook from here does stickers at www.skewer.co.uk I think the website is. I'm sure he can sort something out for you. Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk

My sarcasm senses are tingling... There's always something faster out there, but can be fun to stretch their legs and see what the differences are. [emoji4] Sent from my Mi MIX 3 using Tapatalk