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If its those big square ones (ive not seen a fuse box on a FK2) its pretty obvious when they go just by looking at them, or even a quick test with a meter. I've pulled a heap of them from scarp yard cars so ive got spares for all my cars. I once dropped a tool and it arced the battery terminals...

These bushes look pretty poor also on the Gf's EP3 but I know its going to be a hub off job and either burn the bush out or press it out and press the new one in and I just cant be bothered tbh. So likely have to wait until the bushes completely poop their selves before she will do anything...

pretty sure I left them on as one of my bolts was seized and I had to cut the plastic around the threaded washer to remove the bolt.

Great progress, the cars too clean for a track car! good work on the rust prevention.

I replaced the one of the GF's EP3 about a month ago. I got an OEM one and it looked identical to the Honda one. You need to remove the front bumper - clips on the undertray, screws under the arch's then the top rad mounts can be accessed. unscrew the drain plug and drain into a container...

The clutches go stiffer on the pedal the more worn they are, if its stiff get a new genuine Honda one fitted.

are the fuel filters at the tank end on these cars? ive never done a fuel filter change on a ep3.

What condition are the bolts to the cat? they just disintegrate on these cars and chances are they will need cut off. So Get some new bolts bought ready for when you or the garage do the job.

a genuine Honda Clutch can last over 100K miles no bother.

Girlfriend's 2004 EP3 is on just about 150K now.

ive seen a genuine Honda clutch do over 90k in a s2000 that was 400- 440bhp depending on the pulley used on the charger. Ive always used genuine clutches ever since.

its a round rubber thing attached on the middle of the drive shaft. my brothers ep2 did the same thing. we replaced it with a J&R shaft. I've also got a spare set of new J&R shafts for my dc2, just incase as they were very cheap.

Sorry to hear about the health issues. Only being honest here but those cage mounts want cut out and get someone else to reweld it, it looks shocking that welding. Looks far too cold, doesn't look like any of the paint was removed prior to the welding taking place. Bits of filler wire sticking...

Blue print adl, borg and beck are also decent brands of pattern parts. edit and moog are decent.

If you haven't got a good sized compressor and are looking at battery ones I can recommend the Ingersol rand 1/2" battery guns. I've had mine must be about 4-5 years now and its a beast. I can only remember seized s2000 front subframe bolts it couldn't get out and they were well in there! I've...

You don't get much rust repair and paint work for that sort of money. Not a long lasting repair anyway.

Yeah, Hondas love to snap bolts so I wouldn't take any chances.

Don't scrap it you will only get scarp value for it. Either break it for parts your self or sell it to a breaker who will strip it. You will get more money from breaking it your self or from a breaker than a scrap yard. If you can be bothered and just want to scrap it, at least keep the battery...

In the mb6 vti the ecu connectors are wired like the obd1 plugs are yeah, but in the uk dc2 you should have obd2a plugs as you will not be using the interior loom of the mb6. The interior loom incorporates the ecu wiring. As the engine loom only goes as far as the strut towers like you mentioned...

These do seem to rust pretty bad. if I was planning to replace it I would give the bolt heads and area around them a good wire brush to remove loose bits and give them a good soak in wd40/rc90 ect, maybe even spray them a few times leading up to when you are planning to start the job.

I've done option 3 on a uk dc2. I've got a build thread in the members car section. I wouldn't bother with a b16 a b18c4 will be a much better swap. I had a aerodeck vti with the b18c4, I fitted that engine and box. engine straight in ect no wiring mods. I just got a cheap obd2a to odb1...

More rot cut out on passenger side Teg updates by Bean Beano, on Flickr Teg updates by Bean Beano, on Flickr Not the best pic but behind the bumper bits. Teg updates by Bean Beano, on Flickr and the new arch in. Teg updates by Bean Beano, on Flickr

I am looking forard to getting a teg back with no rust, all done right which should last many years to come. Even rusty ones are up on ebay for strong money these days. Little update on the passenger side inner arch. Teg arch update by Bean Beano, on Flickr

Its getting there mate.

some pieces for underneath including the back of the sill. Teg arch update by Bean Beano, on Flickr and from underneath, you can see hes done a few more pieces including part of the end of the fllor pan, where the rta bush mounts, and that bit on the end of the fllor pan with the strenthener...

One arch almost finished. Arches by Bean Beano, on Flickr Hes done a great job on this so far even the inner arch hes shaped and done it properly so it looks original.

Few more updates. Bit more rust guys new sill clamped in place and a start on the inner arch/ inner sill end inner arch made and mostly welded in. i think the inner arch is all finished now but no more updated pics.

After some delays with the steel as I asked for him to use Zintec sheet steel rather than the usual steel sheet you can get anywhere so it is taking a bit longer. The Zintec stuff has a light zinc coating on it, like galv but not as thick so that it still welds nice. Its much more resistant to...

I know what you mean but this was an issues caused by the stretched chain, it was gone after replacing it and the car ran much better through the whole rev range as the timing gets knocked out when the chain stretches which is why it puts the code up for the cam/crank sensors. The car also ran...

Sounds just like the symptoms of a stretched timing chain. Is it not ticking over so good maybe cutting out if you stop at a junction or has a flat spot before vtec? Ours was doing these things before we got the chain, guides and tensioner replaced.

Got this heap dropped off for the fab work on Monday with the help of my mate and his truck. Ended up having to remove the front bumper to get the car on and it still only just went on. My mate thinks the car will be done in a week so he should be bashing on with it. Hopefully have some...

nice fresh paint there. cant beat the before and after when you've got it all painted under there.

Big day today guys, the Teg goes on its holiday. I gave the garage a clean out yesterday for the first time in months. what a dump it was. when the cars out the garage I will be sweeping it all out. My mate thinks he will have the fab work done on the arches within a week! I think it will take...

Hardrace lower control arms painted Not a good pic but they were then given a light coat of autosmart black underseal The car is now back on its wheels and the interior has been stripped for the new archs fabricated and all the welding.

I got back sooner than i thought we would so i got the rear trailing arms sprayed with 2 coats of black. Next im going to spray the hard race rear lower control arms to protect them as all the hard race products ive seen rust very quickly unfortunetely. i dont think the paint system they...

Hahaha. I will try keep this updated, I often forget to take pics or the battery goes flat or I've left the phone in the house ect. Hopefully my mate can make a quick start on it this Saturday and we can see some good progress.

Don't worry mate ive got my motivation back now and im cracking on with it. Rear trailing arms were prepped last night im going to get them primed tonight.

hahaha not sure not really seen much of him for ages tbh. Care package from H-Tune The old arm on the passenger side was a right ball bag and i had to cut the arm to get it off the car The other side all came off pretty easy I started knocking the RTA bushes out Then started...

haha maybe mate not sure I would be going though. I got a bit more done last night. The rear trailing arms are really rusty and there's no way the abs sensors were going to come out without destroying the mounting for it. Checked the rear arms on the other teg and they look in much better...

Whenever I do a clutch I always clean the pivot points on the back of the clutch fork and also where the slave pushes the fork I then regrease them with some decent grease, our ep3 doesn't do this after I fitted genuine Honda clutch kit, neither does my dc2 after doing the same.

Not touched this in ages. ive bought heaps of parts for it like new rear lower hard race oem style arms and hard race front upper arms, theres probably heaps more too. A guy I know used to build rally cars at M-Sport, then he set up on his own, but hes always busy. I asked him if he would do...

a k20 lsd box is expensive too, compared to b series anyway.

I've fitted heaps of polly bushes to different cars, I've always just gone for the cheapest ones. I've never noticed any difference in them tbh they have all been fine. I did get a full set for my rwd starlet for £51 I think it was and they did have a few air bubbles in them but still never...

jap service parts are a good supplier for service parts like this or import car parts. I use these quite a bit. Or I just find out the adl blue print part numbers then search ebay for the part number as I find this gets them for the cheapest price. I've replaced all these on the GF's EP3.

If you were going to all the trouble of removing the box, splitting and it, it would be a shame to at least not fit an LSD

Yep could be the sliders seized, so long as they come out ok its easy to sort them. Stick them in a drill to spin them with some sand paper around them cleans them up quickly. If its the piston seized I would just change the whole unit saves the hassle and not nice working outside this time of...

Sounds like it could be a few things but with the code displaying for the o2 sensor that's probably the best place to start. When you tried to remove it did you manage to get it disconnected and a ring spanner down the wire and over the nut, they can be well in so best to get a good hold on it...

Ahhhh good stuff! Always good to keep a few bits in the garage ready for when you need them. My garage is like a mixture of a Toyota and Honda parts store, stuff everywhere.

I just bought some pagid EP3 front discs from Euro for £66 quid I think it was. Tegiwa were priced at £88 I think! Im picking them up tonight. Ordered some for the Dc2 too.

Honda prices from UK dealers is disgusting, I buy next to nothing from them. Toyota on the other hand is so much better, some things are daft money but they are much more reasonable than Honda and they have always given me discount, Honda just wont.

Spot on mate. The hardrace stuff has to be ordered in usually. I've ordered some front and rear arms and my expected dispatch date from Htune is dec 6th.

Pagid ones are about 60 odd quid atm from euro with the black friday code, nice protective coating on them to prevent the centres rusting. That's what I will be fitting on ours next and probably my dc2 when it eventually comes out. On my other cars ive always liked mintex 1144 pads. not sure if...

A new chain will stretch quite quickly at first when fitted and run then it will be very gradual over the years until eventually it will reach its limit where you may start to experience issues.

Yeah there's some decent offers on hardrace stuff atm, I just ordered oem style rear lower arms and front upper arms.

If the car is running fine, no flat spots, or cam sensor fault codes your chain is likely fine. I only got ours changed at just over 100K with new guides and tensioner as the car was coming up with fault codes for cam sensor faults, then it started cutting out and it was hesitating before vtec...

Since I changed the clutch in the girlfriends EP3 the car drives so much better, she had just got used to how bad it was but I only drive it now and again but its like a different car now. pedal is nice and light not really heavy any more and the car just feels smoother when pulling away, and...

I'm sure they are good quality but I cant see them offering anything that any decent brand offers such as ADL blue print, Moog, borg and beck. I would be happy using any of those brands and just go for the cheapest price. Pretty sure I put ADL ones on the GF's EP3 a few years ago.

https://www.hondaparts247.co.uk/ For a genuine clutch that's where I got ours, cheapest I could find.

Ive been having a bit of a break from doing my cars for a while, after I did the clutch on the EP3, pads on a yaris, built a log store, cutting loads of wood for the store and other stuff getting in the way ive not had chance to do my own. I took a couple day off work last week and fitted a new...

Good update. Thats lot of hard work for just a dremel tbh I would be looking to use a die grinder. I had my dremel die a bit back I replaced with with a von haus one from ebay I think that's how its spelled, its much more powerful and has done quite a bit of work so far no issues with it...

Nice job on the hubs. For removing the bushes on the front arms I've found if you use an old drill bit and drill through the bush in a few places then just try to cut around the outside with the drill. Its really easy then just cut through the sleeve with a dremel or hacksaw and knock out...

Well the car past the MOT. My girlfriends brother is a mechanic and he's had a bit of a look at it and its working the best it has since all this trouble started so its as good as its going to get. I'm sure I've seen a guide somewhere for fitting DC5 rear calipers but I wont be doing this on...

Type R = Type Rust unfortunately. I will be keeping an eye on the build. My girlfriends EP3 is getting attacked by rust but im not sorting that out as well as my own cars.

they are very fragile, be careful when fitting the replacement, I used a deep 24mm socket.

Not necessarily, the filtering part inside the oil filter is folded this is what determines the surface area so a smaller filter could easily have a larger filtering surface area than a bigger one depending on the folding inside the unit. Anyway just fit them they are decent and a nice shade of...

I always thought the slightly smaller filter raised the oil pressure slightly which is why people used them on race cars. Even if its smaller in size doesn't mean its filtering abilities are any less than a bigger one as this is determined by surface area of the filter inside the unit.

Used them for years now on tegs, crx, and EP3, I think they have actually stopped making them now but there's still plenty stock knocking about I guess.

looking at over £1000 I would say if you do the guides and tensioner with the chain, which is advisable.

That's strange as its the same clutch in them.

Its an odd one for sure. They are unbelievably good quality genuine Honda clutches. I just changed one in my girlfriends EP at the weekend, the car has no history of a clutch change and its just turned over 140k miles, we've done around 50k in it. A genuine clutch came out of it but it was still...

Just seen the pic of the old clutch disc. its hard to believe that's how it came out. looks more like its dropped out when the pressure plate was unbolted and smashed off the bottom part also causing what looks like the flat bit on the bottom of the face behind the friction surface. If the...

Forgot to say watch Nash hasnt left any boiled eggs in the glove box!!

Looks familiar! happy new purchase!

MOT on the EP3 tomorrow. Andrew who owns the garage has said he wont bother putting his lottery on lol. I best have a quick look round the car before she takes it down.

What brand of caliper and cables did you buy? I used budweg calipers from brakes international and japoparts or jakoparts? cables I think it was. Then I think it got pagid calipers. I'm tempted to try some dc5 rear calipers and see if they are any better.

Yeah I always clean up the sliders and re-grease them when I do anything with brakes on a car.

I had a set of Meister R coilovers on my 4wd starlet turbo and I wasn't impressed with them tbh mate. I was always having to mess about with them and all the paint came off the springs in no time at all even though the car didn't do a lot of road miles. If it was me I would be sticking with the...

This is where I got our genuine Honda EP3 clutch kit from and a few other bits. fast postage and best price. https://www.hondaparts247.co.uk/collections/honda-civic-type-r-ep3/products/honda-civic-type-r-clutch-kit A bargain for a genuine Honda clutch.

I'm going to keep an eye on this also as the girlfriends EP3's mot is next month and I've done the same as you. I think they only passed it last year to get rid of it as they couldn't sort the issue. I think dc5 calipers can be made to fit with swapping some parts where the handbrake cable...

Yeah could be that. Doubt its the chain then.

Check battery terminal is clamped on both posts well. Could also be a symptom of a stretched timing chain if it gets worse over time. What about fuel level is it doing it when there's low fuel and the pressure isn't built up in the system fully due to low fuel level.

We've ran toyo t1r's on the girlfriends ep3 for over 40k miles now. They last pretty well and I find them predictable when having some fun. Some people say they are awful and just a budget tyre but I've always liked them and just bought another last week using an ebay code and it was about 51...

Yeah same for us if we want anything from Australia.

The GF's EP3 is exactly the same as this and im going to be changing the clutch on it very soon. I got her it for her birthday last month with the MTF3. When clutchs are worn ive found they go stiff. I think its because some of the springs in the clutch plate become compressed and a bit loose...

I think I paid about 50 gbp for new Honda mats in our ep3 for the uk spec ones about 3 years ago.

See this pop up loads for EP3's. Had the same issue with the GF's EP3. Its had new calipers, discs, pads, both cables, and the handbrake is still crap. I did the work, then when it went for mot it failed so she got the garage to have a go at it, they replaced another one of the new calipers and...

thanks guys but its beat me. went to fit the shocks with the eibachs on and the lower shock bolt is snapped in the arm i must have done it ages ago and forgot about it. had the tig welder on it glowing red and tred to get some grips on it then tried drilling it and a big drill bit snapped in it...

Been smashing this in the garage all weekend and today, feel like crap but got to bash on! I made a new jacking point Starting to tack the new sill in place Holes drilled ready for plug welding onto the top piece of the sill. Boom, all plug welded. Clamping the back of the sill in...

turbo adapter flange landed, hopefully this setup works. Bit more progress

Blue point do an awesome low entry jack either 2 or 2.5 ton cant remember now. I got mine from the local snap on man I think it was about £140. Best jack I've had after all the trouble with those Clarke aluminium "racing" ones, dangerous those, they are crap. I've got a Ingersol rand 1/2"...

Should sort out a few dyno runs at JDM too. We did one years ago when I had my blue b18 eg. Was a good day that.

My grinder died the other day, metabo one it was and a good one too wont be buying another one of those. quick trip to screwfix and got this. Also ran out of gas so had to go swap the bottle for a full one. had a delivery of u pol gravitex stone chip, and tiger seal great stuff this used...

I've got the clutch to do on the girlfriends EP3 its got the same symptoms, although Its never slipped yet . Got a genuine Honda kit sat ready which she got for her birthday the other week! she hardly vtecs it and is scared to put her foot on the floor lol.

Yeah need to get a meet or drive out sorted. The Integra is getting there slowly mate lots of welding! I've a thread on here.

did the new tps come with some nuts?

Just spotted this thread good choice marra will have to get a look at it some time! no pics of the B Pipe and it fitted?

Cheers enzo. Its a bit daunting at first but once you get a few bits made and start building the skins back up to put the strength back into it and you can see the rot dissapearing and new steel in its place it starts coming to. As for the other car it won't see the road again. Its future is...

Cheers Guys! just hard to keep at it. I would rather be fitting the turbo bits! Heres the folder my mate lent to me. it came in handy yesterday. this piece goes in the sill as a reinforcement piece. This is the piece i made with the folder. This is a piece which is sort of like the top...

Cheers Guys, lot more work to do yet though. The other dc2 was crashed a couple of times then sat for a year or so under some trees on a farm. It looks wrecked but its got a great engine in it.