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The only tools you’ll need are sockets/Allen keys for your top half bolts (I swapped the OEM for stainless Allen head bolts cause the OEM were fooked), then whatever screwdriver/socket the jubilee clip on the pipe from the top of the box to the TB, 8/10mm socket for the nut and box to fix the...

The shop manual doesn’t give a step by step, but does have a list of component locations/exploded diagram. (Disclaimer, this is from the ‘03 manual, so yours may be subtly different) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IACV needs cleaning before looking at anything else. That and the cold air idle assist valve are the parts that get the cold start idle up to 2k from 500. (With the IACV and cold air valve blocked, and throttle closed a k20 will just about be able to idle around 450-500 with the air that leaks...

I had a knock going over speed bumps and potholes coming from the front O/S not long ago. Thought it was knackered dampers for a few weeks... eventually noticed it was actually down to a totally fcuked top mount. The rubber bush had disintegrated/failed and the shock assembly was just being...

I bought a headlight assembly from Mazda to fix mums car earlier this year. The look on the chaps in the sales office face when I picked it up and paid for it were a picture. Looked like they thought I'd gone totally mad and was going to stab them all or something. Assumptions are the mother of...

I'd be lucky if the increase was only £800! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Expect they would be fairly similar, but the jump to an FK2 from say an EP3 would be eye watering! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's not necessarily the car finance that does it for those of us under 25, it's just as likely to be the insurance. Also depends on where you live. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

£500 ish for an OEM from a specialists in the south all in (Perf Auto/TGM). TDI North do it cheaper I believe. You can get the kit for about £180 and take it to a local place. Wouldn't even want to know what Honda would charge. 12 miles a day is fine if it's mixed with some good A/B-roads, but...

If money is a problem then get what you can afford - unless you're heading out on track or looking to get nicked for dangerous driving you don't need to buy the best components for the car to be functional. As with all parts, aftermarket generally isn't quite up to standard and likely won't last...

Ironically the new Jazz's OEM front discs cost the same as the EP3 ones from Cox. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

*MAP [emoji28] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unlikely to be down to just a filter - MAF would need to be blocked/dirty/malfunctioning also to screw up the AFR. Reduced flow would just mean the engine is down on power and/or struggles to idle, wouldn't expect it to cause a misfire if the sensors are reading correctly. What filter was on...

Possibly a problem with the sensors for air temp/pressure/flow etc. could be a leak in your air-box, could also be something on the exhaust side, bit of a long shot but covering the tail pipe or something or getting in if theres a crack in a low hanging part, electrical shorts is also a...

I've been told the same by the chaps at performance Autoworks and mates who work at cars. To say it's good practice is not quite accurate. If it's not showing symptoms it's purely a peace of mind job. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not strictly true - it depends entirely on the life the engine has had. There is no real need to change it preventatively if the engine is still running as normal at 100k.

Assuming this is rears and they're same as ep3(?!), did you notice the balls in the Meyle HD links are at a slightly different angle to OEM? I didn't realise till I had them on (after cutting the originals) but it looks like there's going to be undue stress on the joints to me as the treads are...

A 17 plate BSB FK8 drove past me yesterday just near Swindon going around a roundabout onto the motorway. Effortlessly passed and the poor old ep3 could barely catch up on the slip road even with a good dose of VTEC. It is a good looking motor, I really do like the BSB colour. Thinking about it...

How recently did you do the redex? It could also be making the fuel harder to ignite. Work your way through Loxy's list and you should be able to work out the cause. I doubt Carbon in the mani and TB would be affected that much by redex though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's not 'advice' though, it's an article written by someone called Caroll Smith. There's quite a lot of places on other forums discussing the same thing. I'm sure 4/5 times its just pad deposits, but it's naive to believe that discs can't be damaged any other way. Sent from my iPhone using...

I always thought warping was just a generic term people use for discs which have an uneven surface, whatever the cause - very interesting reading. As reputable and believable as that info is, I find it very hard to believe they've never seen a warped disc. People manage to do incredible things...

Absolutely normal, will happen for a couple of days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There's a reason machines are referred to as women. Need a bit of care and attention or they stop doing what you want. :lol: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The idea that changing the oil is only a placebo isn't quite accurate. Engine oil that's past its best can have a noticeable impact, especially on an engine like the K20 where oil is used also for VTEC etc. It's not just the friction of the oil, it's all the tiny particles of carbon and such...

Check your callipers at the same time. The warping could have been caused by them seizing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're dead on with the fluids - I've found just the same. I recon it's about 5.2 ltrs of both when you do a full flush. Suppose the 4.7 comes from people who don't change the filter?! And with the coolant it depends if you get it all out, which is pretty difficult. Good luck tomorrow...

Not necessarily, if you have a look at other threads on the same topic it is one of the symptoms of a worn out clutch. But I would expect a little crush in 1st and 3rd as well, if it's only in 2nd I would be leaning towards syncros. As I said before, mine is still crunching when cold even with...

Expensive, probably at least £300 parts and £300 labour, definitely be sensible do at the same time as the clutch if you can. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whenever I stall I have to give the throttle a good blip while restarting or the engine struggles like yours. I think mine is due to fairly dirty IACV. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I get 2nd gear crunch when the engine is cold before the heat has got into the gearbox. Fresh clutch about 1.5k miles ago, which made it worse if anything. If I'm careful with the revs and how smoothly I move the level into gear I can usually avoid crunching so I suspect it's a syncro - '03...

Petrol prices in your area. As far as I can work out Tesco's momentum 99 is their regular 95 fuel with 5% ethanol added to boost the octane number. I hope they throw some of the cleaning additives in too but I can't find online if they do or not. That means that like all supermarket fuel if...

As I frequently tell my colleagues, everyone is an idiot, there's no escape it. :D Although as with the battery on another thread this week, this is a bit next level. You take a car in for a new chain cause yours has stretched you'd bloody well hope the new one is shorter. Sent from my iPhone...

Same story with stairs, but where would we be without them!! And probably electricity, and plastic bags, and the list goes on :lol: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bad drills all round leaving it like that :( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah fair play on the pos/neg terminals, easy mistake, but to get one where the terminals stick up high enough to touch the bonnet, that is next level.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What absolute retards...

Did the garage get you the battery? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the suggestion of coolant was based on potential for heat soak, freshen it up a little. And check for contamination in there (head gasket). From my experience the brake binding makes the car feel down on power every time you move off, even when the car is still cold. To be fair I also...

I'd do all of the above mate, a second hand heat shield and a bit of ducting will be cheaper than some of the alternatives!! When you flush the coolant might be a good idea to catch it in a clear container and check to make sure there's no contamination. And same with the oil if you can...

Have you had it out on any good runs? Good hour or two of driving? 2,000 miles a year of all town driving is not much good for the engine, she'll be all bunged and the oil full of fuel etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd start with heat soak. Have you been driving it more this year than previous? We have had a lot of 30+ degree days this year.

No worries man, you're welcome. Glad to hear it was an easy fix!! Always good to check a couple of guides make sure you're not missing something. When I get around to buying some new coolant hoses and bolts I need to do my IACV properly. Hoses were seized and starting to split so I did it in...

What is the earth under the car? I thought the engine earth was on the top left. Maybe a strap between gearbox and engine block? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn't like to guess really. Suppose it's possible to damage the cable if you're ripping a heat shield out. What has corroded on the strap? Doesn't really make sense for the earth to corrode and cause a draw. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The assist valve is just to get more air in so it warms up faster, wouldn't cause hunting issues at operating temp. Idle at 500 is very low, the ep3 shakes like absolute stink at less than 550. There must be something that's causing it to go skwey. I'd try A) and drive it a few miles to see what...

Batteries are always spot on until they finally go!! :D 6 years is a good run on one! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, there something shorting it then. The alternator is obviously grand. If you can't find it I'd just unplug the battery when you get to work tomorrow. Might see you away! :lol: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd have tried checking the voltage with and without fuse. Hard to know what the draw should be, depends on your headunit and so on. As far as I'm aware there is no constant live to the wiper motor, (or rather, the ignition breaks the circuit) so it should only be able to draw when the ignition...

Did you do the learn? I know it sounds silly to ask but you haven't mentioned doing it. I'd start looking at sensors and for leaks, and I'm not convinced you can totally blank off the IACV on the OEM TB because the butterfly valve closes completely, but someone who knows K20's better will have...

Turn on from cold, make sure all election loads are off and hold at 3k fast idle until fan kicks in (thermostat opens/engine reaches usual temp) then let idle naturally for 5-10 mins or something, will tell you in the book. Just lets the ecu re-learn the idle characteristics. Unless the chap...

Did you run the idle learn? Did you clean out the OEM IACV? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there a throttle cable or is it controlled electronically haha? Got no idea about a DC5. Is is possible for a TPS that's out to cause all sorts of issues including jerkiness, but if it was really bad there's every chance you have other issues too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is the DC5 drive by wire? It's probably a combination of the three things you've mentioned, stone cold engine, no air filter/box and TPS not quite right. Edit: And the ECU needs to re-learn the idle characteristics with the new TB. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It can only go two ways, connector pointing up or down, so you've got a 50:50 chance :D logical place is pointing down, keeping the wiring harness short, but I guess technically it could go either way if it doesn't have internal stops, it's only a variable resistor in a fancy casing. You'll be...

As above, if you're mechanically minded to be able to swap the TB's you'll be able to do the TPS without much trouble. Find a good guide with pics online and you'll be able to crack it in no time. Cheapo multimeter are less than a tenner at halfrauds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TPS' need to be calibrated when moved, unless you get very lucky, and she won't like driving with it uncalibrated. Have you got an ODB scanner or a multi-meter? If you can fit the TB you'll be able to calibrate a TPS no problems.

Interestingly that only happens from the taptalk app, if you go to web view they will work as pics.

No modern road car, turbo or not, really needs a 'cool down' period. They're designed with safety factors to cover with far, far more than you can throw at it [legally] on a public road. Something like a drift car where the air can't get over the radiator and transfer the heat out of the water...

Haha, photo bucket works on my laptop but not on the taptalk app. Brilliant! Looks legit anyway.

Sorry man, Photobucket doesn't work for everyone anymore, can't see that pic. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Worth a shot for 4 quid. Let us know if it works! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Something about the data transfer through an older USB bus not working. Probably down to a simple adapted not being able to convert the signal from 8-30 pin and vice versa. You could try one of those cables that splits into the Lightning cable for power and an aux for sound. Sent from my...

EP3 Fuel economy/miles to a tank...? Haha yeah you are right, mine does it too, lasts ~200 miles from topped-off to half way then seems to disappear the rest of the way rapid fire. I don't monitor my mpg because I think I'd give myself a stroke with more than 50% city driving. Sent from my...

Those adaptors tend to be a bit hit and miss, some are much better quality than others. It also depends what's on the other end of the 30-pin wire, some of them don't seem to be able to do the business through an adaptor. My pioneer unit has the old school 'iPod adaptor' which I can't get to...

In all fairness that's because if you fill it to the top you're banging a lot of extra fuel in the filler neck. :lol: The gauge only sees what's in the tank..! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh I know they're made in the same factory - it's like supermarket own brands in this country. The question is more one of whether they make it to the same spec as the Honda parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Be interested to see some pictures of the old/new when you get around to doing it - and what you think of the japserviceparts gasket. Mine is weeping a little and it's one of the jobs on the long list.

https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?100601-How-many-fk2-type-r-were-made

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I hope they did it for free too!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very sorry to see a fellow SS getting damaged, hope the police get involved and do something about it, failing to stop at the scene is quite a serious offence. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Knock sensors have a little piezoelectric thingy that detects vibration. Chris is saying if it was detecting too much vibration, say because it's not mounted properly, it won't throw a code. I guess as long as you put it back together and it holds the current is passing through and giving a...

Wrong side of the country :smt023

Main reason I was so ****ed off when someone I know said I wasn't suited to having a "performance" car. I've had mine a year and I'd say I'm still only comfortable and safe using 1/2 of the power it has. Usually because I've hit 70* and run out of motorway but the point still stands. :lol...

Chasing 300... Your insurance company is going to bend you over hard :D Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which is probably why everyone he's had look at it has said its a timing issue or blockage. https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?64156-Head-Gasket-Replacement/page2 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your reasoning for the head gasket seems quite plausible... if it started off in VTEC, when more air is being forced into the cylinder and has slowly progressed down the rev range... By the same logic could also be damaged piston ring(s). Have you had the intake/exhaust checked? I'd get a...

On an EP3 (which is now minimum 12 years old) there are much bigger problems to worry about than the intake getting wet :lol: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Heavy rain on it's own isn't going to damage it unless you're missing something like an arch or panel! If it did the OEM intake would have the same trouble. You shouldn't drive through any puddle deeper than a few inches, and certainly not one deep enough to touch any typical intake. The...

In terms of water getting in... unless you're missing your N/S arch, or planning to go fording a lot (not a good idea in any car let alone a civic) you're unlikely to get issues. The AEM sits nice and high up in the bay anyway...!? Unless I'm thinking of a different one. If you're really...

Maybe they used sunflower oil? :lol: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which dealer is it? It could well be an honest mistake - you can't know until you've gone back. Some of them are known to be better than others, maybe there's another one not too far away from you. If they did do the filter then maybe the drain wasn't thorough enough. Sent from my iPhone...

Does your service docket actually say they put on a new filter? That the picture there looks like it's got a mix of very dirty and very clean so I'd guess not all the oil was removed (e.g. filter wasn't changed). Baring in mind this was the first oil change so all the contaminants from...

Looks clean and low milage, but check the MOT and service history etc. Would expect tyres and brakes with plenty left and a good feeling clutch at a minimum - maybe potential bartering points. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

EP3 wiring the A/C fan & radiator fan together ? That is the correct data sheet, it gives you the specs for all models of G8HN relays. It's possible Honda got some specially made for them, or the manufacturers have changed their part numbers since. Whichever one comes on the car is largely...

It's unlikely, the sensors usually feed back to the ECU and then the ECU sends a signal back out to the relay to activate the fan, so you'd have to trick the ECU in some fashion. The safest way to do it, electrically speaking (I've never fvcked around with civic wiring), would be to buy another...

Copper grease works, but I recon it turns to gunk quicker. You might just be really unlucky and the calliper is gone again... :( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Taking it slow and steady while you get used to a new car is always a good plan! :D No need to do both intake and exhaust, you can do either on their own too. Of course, unless you get it re-mapped neither is going to change too much other than sound. But if you are going for a map you'll want...

Great thread, sounds like it's going to be a good project. Certainly be interested to see what you do with the exhaust. Mine has some sort of paint tin silencer and a rust bucket custom mild-steel B-Pipe that I'll have to swap out in the not so distant future. That said... Sound advice ^ my...

Operating voltage range? Or lambda value? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice, so was the wire disconnected stopping it working?

Which Power Probe do you have? I think some do have a feature for supplying a live connection to components. I'd be wary of just banging the full whack from the battery into the relay though (assuming you want to use the probe to activate the relay) not sure what voltage/current the low power...

You requested toe in mm, but their kit does it on an angle. To do the maths to get from a length to an angle you need to use the tyre size. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's down in the shop manual to do the idle lear after removing the battery, not sure why, I doubt it stores everything in RAM.

You should've see the other hand :lol: probably need to use carb cleaner to sort them out. My tap and die set is unfortunately 160 miles away, the screws seem to bite, and the control thing doesn't need to be on too tight from what I can see, just nipped it up and put it all back together...

Oh man... The perils of buying 2nd hand cars. IACV control thing is held on with two wood screws and was loose. Not sure where to line it back up. Oh, and one of the screws holding the valve to the TB is already fvcked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had another thought, did you run the idle learn after removing the battery? If not that would explain why yours did it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's been this way for a good while, and it's been driven at high revs plenty since. I can't remember when exactly it started, I did change the intake from an open cone to an OEM air box. Is the throttle sealed at idle?

Yeah, there is a guide on here but it is missing pictures. I can probably get it off and take a peak all the same, just curious if there are other potential causes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I learned the hard way, once in goes the other isn't far behind. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk