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Hi Can anyone clarify something on Honda valve clearance spec numbers 3 - Select the correct thickness feeler gauge for the valves you're going to check. Valve Clearance Intake: 0.21−0.25 mm (0.008−0.010 in.) Exhaust: 0.25−0.29 mm (0.010−0.011) My question is for the exhaust valves, it...

Got this sorted, it was starter motor solenoid knackered.

Got this sorted If ur attempting doing your starter from underneath, You have to undo that thick black metal strut bar that sits just inside the front bumper underneath Remove the bolt / nut from the front lower engine mount that go through it Remove the 2 17mm bolts from each side of the...

Hi Has anyone managed to remove the starter motor on their fn2 from underneath? If so please can you advise how you get to the hidden top 14mm bolt that holds the starter in? Hondas fn2 workshop says to do from underneath, they make it sound simple Step 1 remove the intake manifold...

Would you say its safe to rule out the engine start button, given that theres power getting to the starter to make it 'click'?

Thx, how do i check the solenoid is operating with it off the car? The click i can here when pressing start button defo sounds like its coming from the starter Im wondering if its worth trying the old school, smack the starter a few times with something hard .. Used to do that with old fords...

Got in car last night to come home from sisters Pushed start button, turned over didnt fire, let go and pressed it again, then nothing, just a click from under the bonnet. Had to bump start it to get it home, ive got battery on charge now but as expected it was still almost fully...

No, I didn't only because it had what looked like copper grease all over it, that I assume Honda put there when they last put new rear discs on...

The old discs were just worn down, had bit of a lip on both sides and pad edges were hitting it I thought that was why they were scraping when braking. The pads had rust colour dust around the edges from were they were catching the lips I cleaned them all up before refitting the surfaces...

Just had rear right wheel off and made a couple videos.. Don't seem right to me that, too much drag / scraping.. Right side is a little worse than left side https://youtu.be/3-6W6y9OOfw https://youtu.be/tGDIwTxBWIc https://youtu.be/wprEF55XR0o

Thanks, yeah that makes sense.. But with the wheel on and fastened up tight, when spinning the wheel by hand the scraping noise is still pretty bad were it's catching multiple times during one rotation.. I guess it's a question how much 'catching noise' is normal / and how much isn't....

My rear discs were knackered Been binding / scraping for good while Wheel spun freely though when jacked up although you could hear it catching / scraping a bit Put some new discs on other day (just cheapo) ones When turning the hub by hand after putting disc on I could clearly see...

Had my belt off again today Found that my alternator pulley is a bit noisy now when I spin it hard by hand Also looking at the aircon pump pulley, if I get hold of it I can wobble it side to side a fair bit and it makes a clang type sound when you wobble it I don't know anything about this...

Update; Put the new injectors in i got off ebay for 30quid Car started and is runnin fine again Lesson learned, if you're reading this and youve been watching youtube videos showing you how to take your injectors out and clean them by spraying carb cleaner / brake cleaner through them with...

Getting more bizarre.. Now i understand how the safety inertia switch works (it only 'clicks' when pressed back in after it had been activated' When i found my inertia switch, it clicked when i pressed on it, so somehow it had been activated even though my car not been crashed or had any sort...

Gonna have get someone round to look it at i think I dont really know much about fuel systems, but the fact that every time ive took the injectors out of the rail, a bit of fuel has come out onto a rag from each injector fitting hole Then when ive put them back in and tried to start the car ...

All i know is the fuel cut out button, clicked when i first pressed it in Now no matter how many times you press it, it does nothing... Charged my battery up yesterday, it did seem to go flat very quickly just from a Few times of trying to start the car over a couple of days.. Batterys...

Ok, so being the d*** that i am i decided to press the inertia safety switch It clicked when i pressed it in and looked to sink inwards a little, car still wont start Now i cant see how to turn the safety inertia switch back to 'off' nothing happens when i press it again, no Click sound and...

Ive just connected each injector up with my cleaning device again and fed some brake cleaner through Each injector worked perfect, spray pattern look full and correct, injectors making the click sound each time the power is connected from the battery Put em back in the car, pulled the main...

Standard rail, no modifications I havnt disconnected the rail / fuel lines at any point I only pulled all 4 injectors out of the fuel rail

Ah, dont think theres any point checking that then Last night i could hear what sounded like the fuel pump give a short buzz sound each time i turned the ignition on As i said in an earlier post, when i removed the injectors again last night the fuel rail was full of petrol so im assuming...

Will check the fuel pump fuse late whats the inertia switch? Thx

Yes everythings fitted spot on I didnt remove the fuel rail, left were is, just pulled the injectors out of it then refitted

I used a little 9v battery to power them while shooting the carb cleaner through them It Powered them on and off fine, when id watched all the youtube vids of doing this cleaning they were always using a 12v car battery or the little smoke alarm type 9v battery

Dunno if there coded.. Yes i kept them in the same order 1-4 as they came out I dont think the coding applys when still using honda std injectors, think thats only for aftermarket / upgrades My foxwell nt650 scanner does 'injector coding' but i dont know how to do it.. Not had the scanner long..

Further info.. Just took the plugs out, plugs 3 and 4 Tips smelled a bit of petrol Put my dry spare set of plugs in, still nothin when trying to start the car Next i undone the fuel rail and took each injector out one by one, a bit of petrol leaked out each of the 4 openings in the rail like...

Just put front wheels back on, car back on ground and level No joy, still no start, not even an attempt While sat in it holding the start button in for a few secs, a 'check system warning light' shown on the rev counter display briefly, Looked like a steering wheel though, ive not seen one...

Thanks for the reply I did wonder if it being jacked up quite high at the front 'may' cause something But i thought that was just wishful thinking on my part Soon as i get home i pop the front wheels back on, let the car down.. With my luck i Cant see it being that easy though haha

Yesterday i took my injectors out to clean them Used one of those rig kits that you see on youtube were you connect a wire to battery terminals and flush through carb cleaner That part went ok, my injectors were clean too which surprised me for 97k miles.. All 4 injectors were out the car at...

Foxwell nt650 elite Does abs too I got it to reset my throttle position after cleaning throttle body my idle and revs were all over the place The foxwell resets the pcm for you then resets the tps then you just do the idle relearn and all sorted / back to normal

More info below pasted of google searches that suggest it cant be the clutch release bearing... ****This action allows the pressure plate's springs to force against the clutch disc, engaging the clutch to the flywheel. Once the clutch is fully engaged,(clutch pedal not pressed in) the...

Thanks chris. So when clutch is fully pressed in does the clutch release bearing stop spinning completely?? You would think it does as its pressed hard against the pressure plate fingers. But i know the pressure plate is still spinning while clutch is pressed in.. When my box is out i'll have...

Hi Im looking to re-light this debate... My clutch has been bad for a while (pressure plate) Got clutch here ready to do myself. Ive noticed a noise getting louder and im certain its gearbox input shaft bearing, u can hear it best stood outside the car when its parked infront of a wall Its...

Have you tried running yours for a minute with the belt off? That will rule the belt out for you...

The whine on mine is there permanent Started good while back and has kept getting worse, and its always whined no matter if engine cold or warm You hear mine worse at 1500 - 2500ish rpms, cant tell after that cause of sports exhaust Ive put new bearings in idler and tensioner pulleys so know...

Been reading bit on google Some reports for other cars that had this whine and they removed belt and noise still there But mechanics told them the compressor was faulty and was making the noise I know nothin about air con, never used it and never will do Maybe somthin inside the compressor...

Sure ive got this same whine, started few months ago Today ive put new bearings in both the top idle pulley and belt auto tensioner pulley casue they were both noisey When i had the drive belt off, i checked the air con pump pulley, just spinning it by hand it sounded a little nosiey (dry...

Update to this thread Ive just got a grand total of 230 miles from 60quid of shell v power (full tank) All journeys only short 10minute drives, only hit vtech in 2nd and 3rd gear a handful of times My computer still showing average of 24mpg, Shocking i think for a N/A 2l engine car....

Wow! And im complaining about my type r... In the late 90's i had 2 sierra cosworths, sapphire and a 3 door mk1 Never once bothered about petrol use back then, prob cause it cost half the price or less of what is it is today and they had no computers telling you anything. haha

Thx for the reply pal. I must start taking it out for long journeys more often.. When i put 30 quid in my trip comp tells me i have anything from 155 - 185mls until empty.. I knew i wouldnt get near that with how i use it I do plan to go up the m6 one day though and see if it will give me...

I work from home and only drive my fn2 round the streets on short 5min / 10min journeys Had it for 3mths and sick of putting petrol in For £30 i get just over half a tank, im getting on avergae 120mls off 30 quid of petrol, trip com shows average mpg since i got it around 24/25mpg Best...

Did the diff rubber change the alignment The exhaust bit too loud for me and its all in the 1500 - 3500 rev range when loudest Has a nice burble sound from inside the car, but does get annoying at times due to volume, does have a lot of 'popping' too when lettin off throttle. Down shifting etc

Great stuff thx for the info

Thx I opened the link in internet explorer and chrome I get all the yellow category folders on left hand side, but when i click on any of the folders... nothing, no text / instructions come up....

Anyone have a valve clearance guide with correct specs measurements from a honda service manual for the FN2 please? Diagrams from the book with cylinder order to adjust them in etc Thanks

Anyone got / fitted a japspeed cat back stainless... Got mine couple weeks ago, i fitted it by myself on axle stands one section at a time startin from the CAT back Got it all on, but both tailpipes are catching inside the bumper outlets Pass side tailpipe is too high and hitting at the top...

Hi all Im weighing up if to do the clutch myself in drive with jacks / axle stands Main question is, does the front sub frame have to come out or not? When i did my gear oil recently the gearbox looked to have room around it... i maybe wrong though. Has anyone took their gearbox out here...