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I've just been out in a car with lower mileage than mine and its the same. I suspect I'm trying to put a luxury car standard on a stiffly sprung car and wondering why it doesn't make the grade... Thanks all

I don't know if I dare say... It's a Volvo estate for my old man hobbies.

Bearing in mind how many people seem to swap the FN2 for fast Audis I seem to be getting a lot of offers to part-ex Audi S3s and such! Still no interest so I've dropped the price a little, which is a shame as she is now proving to be a real charmer. I'm starting to fall back in love as I learn...

No it's on eBay at the moment, had a nice level of bubbling interest but not enough to get it sold yet. I'll drop the price every now and then until it sells. I'm not in a screaming rush. I think it's fairly priced but it's so subjective because some people place more or less importance on the...

I think my time with this car is up, I was hoping for a modern version of an 80's hot hatch but its just too capable to be entertaining. I'm old, I like my action at lower speeds. As a result it's now for sale on a popular auction site. Just like me to buy something, spend a lot of money on it...

From ten years ago?

It's not so much when cold, it can be any time, but its mainly at small throttle openings. As you say it could just be a charateristic of the car, but I've only ever tried mine.

I'm still thinking I've got sloppy engine mounts. I might try fitting the inserts before going the whole hog, they ain't cheap. I may start by just stiffening up the ones I can get to, the others look like a sod and I don't want to make work for myself.

So the actual issue is you have condensation on the outside of the window, sometimes, but not all the time? Sounds like a write off to me. For the love of God stop over worrying.

I don't suppose you know Nige Pinder do you? He does a lot of the Destination Nurburgring track days, I see him now and again. Drives a very rapid mk2 golf with a lot of aero.

I think they do love driveshafts. I think you can get uprated ones.

Whats more likely is that they don't seat fully until the wheelnuts are done up tight. You might be over worrying. Wait until they have bedded in and see what they are like.

I always wear a helmet on my own, but if I take a passenger who can't get hold of one I don't wear one either. If our heads hit each other during an accident the one not wearing a helmet is going to get proper screwed up... As you say, on track days its mandatory.

Not many engines will survive a miss-gear like that.

Bearing in mind its probably the only thing I would change, whats the most cost effective way of lowering the VTEC cut-in RPM? Used Hondata from ebay or similar? I don't need full mapping, just would like to be able to change the very basic parameters. The car is otherwise standard and will...

It's a big puddle. It's a bit of a guess but if you take out the pollen filter maybe you will see some residue if it is the heater matrix.

I take it you mean the aux belt? They would have been pretty cack handed to break the waterpump but it's possible I suppose. Drive it next time with the air con off and my guess is you won't have a puddle this time.

I suspect they have to list it anyway so people dont select the wrong one.

LOL yeah only kidding, chasing a lap time is normally how you end up on the Bongard. I've never timed, but I have reviewed video afterwards. Better a slower lap and getting back to the UK without £5k debt for a bent barrier and car repairs.

I was after FN2 really. Did you stop for an icecream? I was only 30 seconds slower in a MK1 MX5.... :D :smt058

Mugen?

I know some have been... I've seen them there.... :lol:

Good to know, sorry you found out the hard way. At least its back running.

Before you fit your pollen filter make sure the cover is fitted.... the previous dipsheet owner of mine lost it.... :evil:

What difference is noticed by installing a direct line between master cylinder and clutch slave (getting rid of the damper), is there any improvement in clutch feel?

Very unlikely that braided hoses will help with fade. Look at pad material, getting cold airflow to the brakes (to the center of the disc is best as then the air gets centrifugally thrown out through the vanes of the rotor) and as a last resort cross drilled discs. That of course assumes you are...

The only other thing I can suggest is leaving the last injector out of the fuel rail and applying a vacuum to it (you could try sucking it but I don't suggest it...), that might be enough to drag enough fuel through the system to fully prime it. But as I've said before I'd be amazed if it wasn't...

As far as I recall "out" is "had a bump mode" and will have turned off the fuel supply. Clicking it in resets it, so its strange that you are still unable to start. I wonder if you have nadgered the battery, from what I've read on here they are a bit fickle about low battery voltage. I'm...

There is going to be an improvement over stock, its just whether you think its enough of an improvement to be worthwhile. Standard hoses are internally reinforced, they don't stretch up like balloon animals, but some people say they notice a difference in feel. I'm sceptical, but you pay your...

Rather than pressing the start try switching the ignition on and off, that buzz is the fuel pump pumping the system up to pressure. Is it the standard fuel rail? You've not modified anything? I don't know this system but I'm assuming its not possible to swap the feed and return by mistake?

Fuel pump fuse? Inertia switch tripped somehow?

Have you recently topped up the air con? Usually that code is related to over pressure. On some simpler systems they use the same code for under pressure as well, but its not that common. I think when its over pressure you can hear the fan/system kicking in and out at idle as the low pressure...

It does sound air-in-the-lines related but usually these things are self bleeding, its not like the old days. It could be that the fuel pump isn't working because its not seeing pressure in the rail and is shutting itself off. I wonder if there is a cludge to force the fuel pump to work.

Just out of interest, what voltage are the injectors? Did you supply 12v and they are ballasted down to 6v in use for example?

Obviously none of you would ever time your laps on Touristenfahrten, but maybe you did a track day there.... those who have taken their FN2 to the ring, what were your Bridge to Gantry times, with what mods fitted? Cheers

Thats what I'm using at the moment in the lathe. It's polished up, I'm going to just lacquer it.

It could be both!

Found this quote elsewhere: "Tesco's 99RON Momentum is made by Greenergy. It's not a bad fuel ie. it meets statutory minimum standards. But, the octane rating is achieved by dosing it with up to 5% by volume bioethanol" I believe thats how they get the higher octane in V-Power too. Not going...

Your car will have a knock sensor which detects detonation. It will tentatively advance the timing until it senses the very start of knock, then retard it slightly. If you use higher octane fuel then it can apply more advance before detonation. To be honest this is going to be way more...

Just as an update to this, I have an 11 plate car and I looked under the windscreen rubber yesterday... the very start of surface rust on the drivers side. I've peeled it out for the moment, cleaned it all down and given it some touch up paint over the areas where chafing is visible.

Long shot, are these still available, 2011 FN2 GT please?

AS5

Autogrip on one side, Langway on the other. What sort of clattering ringcrust puts tyres like that on? It's now got Goodyear F1 on all round, just got back from the fitter.

Should do

So today I found time to get the car jacked up. On the cheap horrible tyres the previous owner fitted a massive bulge has appeared in the centre of the tread. It's massive; the size of bar of soap. No wonder things got juddery! Lets just hope I haven't knackered my dampers in the process... new...

So now it's developed into a shuddering, wheel shaking tyrannosaurus of a wobble. Felt like a flat tyre. Whole car shuddering. Hope this makes it easier to diagnose... Applying brakes and handbrake made no difference, neither did dipping the clutch.

update; I'm at work so can't do much right now but I've been round the wheelnuts and they are nipped up correctly. Also took it for a short drive, no knocking or clicking on full lock.

I wonder if someone has had similar symptoms please: I've got a low speed wheel wobble, like, car park speeds. I suspect I've got a sticking caliper but I don't know if that's in addition to this problem or that the wobble is a symptom of the same thing. There is no vibration under braking...

I like the EP3 but they are getting on a bit. Our EP2 was just generally wearing out. I don't regret getting an FN2 one bit, it feels modern but still nimble. I regret nothing.

Maybe graphite grey it is....

Won't hear me disagreeing. If I'm in my car with cruise on you might even see me nodding.

When I'm sat on the dual carriageway commuting I put cruise on and the car is a little bit jerky, a bit snatchy. Is that an FN2 CTR trait or is that a sign my engine mounts might be a bit tired? I retrofitted cruise control to a very track spec car previously and even on race coilovers it wasn't...

Yes its a nice combo. Were they fun to keep clean?

Had a boot load of joy with this car but we finally have an understanding and we are back in love. Driving along the road I heard a funny noise, I thought something was dragging underneath. Pulled over to look and couldn't see anything on the underside... until I went to get back in the car...

Mines a bit slow and whiney, I might try to encourage some lubricant in there. That diagram helps, thanks

First I let the tank drop until about a 1/4 full; if you let it go dry you will end up fighting a full bleed. Not terrible, but why make work for yourself. Then I kept the level topped up until I was content enough fluid had flowed through and nipped it up. I'm sure you know this already but...

I think you worry too much...

I just used a socket and extension on the nipple and drained it into a rag. I was able to completely drain the reservoir this way. Access didn't seem that bad?

Actually I wonder if they mean you need to retorque the top damper bolt? I wonder why?

I believe the chap I bought my car from fitted the Rage alloys himself, when browsing the forum I found this thread: https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?51808-Wheel-Info This mentions that the Rage alloys actually required an adjustment to the dampers?! Has this been found to...

Earthing fault maybe? I don't know much about Honda but funny sensor readings can occur then. Otherwise the battery thing isn't a bad call. One other thing to consider, is there anything that could be generating electrical interference? Have you mucked about with the sparkplugs and/or coilpacks...

Do literally anything on a Clio. The FN2 looks great in comparison. I did my spark plugs a few days ago, when you go to lift the coil pack out and it hits the underside of the scuttle.... FFS.... Actually though I'm glad I ended up taking everything off as I was able to clean and rustproof...

Funny enough I just did the same thing, the same way. As you say, not too bad at all. 94k on my car my oil was a bit grot too

If its for the genuine honda filter (rather than a generic one) I'm interested

I notice Tegiwa do the tool to fit the end of the genuine filter too.

I'm with JohnA on this. Just changing the fluid will make the most noticeable difference; hoses are usually internally braided anyway and the give in a braided hose vs a normal hose is negligable. We tried this on the bench with matching lengths of hose (we used HEL) and the difference in...

Bit of a tidy up. I thought it was going to be an awful job when I saw that I couldn't get the coil packs off without removing the upper heat shield, but it really wasn't bad at all.

Bought genuine Honda gearbox oil from Tegiwa as well as some new iridium plugs. Fitted the plugs and cleaned up a little under the bonnet today. Hemmingway was right, these things have just mean't I've had to work on the car and give it my personal touch. All nuts and bolts cleaned up and copper...

I don't know about Honda specific but I've found my bluetooth one bought for a few quid on eBay, used with the free Torque app, has worked fine for everything. I've got a professional grade one in the shed I don't even bother getting out as the cheap one does more.

To be honest I don't have a problem with the ride at all. I've had a few track day cars in the past that for some reason always ended up as dailies so I don't even notice the firm ride. As for the alloys, I've not had the other type so I don't know any different. Before it was delivered they...

I know nothing about Honda systems but my volvo alarm would be fine for weeks and then randomly go off. I noticed it was going off a lot when I locked the car at petrol stations to pay. It was driving me mad. It turns out the ultrasonic sensors pick up your phone or tablet trying to find a WIFI...

Sorry I can't help, but I would like to know where you found the wiring diagram, it would really help me out with a problem I'm having at the moment? Sorry for the hijack.

I've had the geometry done now, thats neatened everything up a bit. I changed the shift boot for a non-ravaged one, then the radio display started showing hieroglyphics. When I did the test on the radio (hold 1 + 6 etc) all the digits showed up crisp and clear, then it started working again...

It's definitely got me doing that already. The cheap copy key supplied by the garage snapped on day two, and today I've just gone to start it and the battery is dead flat. It did 40 mins of commuting yesterday so I feel like I'm being tested...

Only had this a few days, just working out the niggles. Not quite as straight as the dealer suggested but still a lovely car. The grip is out of this world. Only thing I've done so far is fit my hand controls and change the clutch fluid as the pedal was a little vauge and the fluid muddy. The...