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COLD START ISSUE! Dreading idle hunting.

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8
*COLD START PROBLEM*

Welcome to my first post.

The story goes that I got my EP3 and didn't use it right away so when I came to use it after a couple of weeks the idle was hunting even when warm between 1.5-2.5k rpm. Gave the car a rag and it cleared itself simple.

Recently I just done a clutch change which means unplugging sensors etc which may disrupt it. The car was off the road for winter so wasn't started or driven for weeks. When the clutch change was done it was started and done the same idle hunting problem. Gave the car a rag and but nothing changed. I used the car for 3 days on the road still giving it a boot and still nothing.

I read online to clean the ivac and the throttle body so I removed the throttle body and the ivac and cleaned everything, all the sensors aswell. Back together, gave it some and still no change. On further investigation the sensor that goes into the air filter (Tegiwa induction kit) was split as in the wire casing because it was rubbing on the battery. I put some electrical tape on went a drive and the idle hunting got slower, and eventually dropped to a good 850-900rpm idle.

However when I now start the car cold as in for work in the morning or after work when it's not been started in over 5 hours it hunts on cold start for 5-10 seconds then sorts its self and continues like normal or I have to give it a rev for it to clear itself.

Any ideas? Sorry for the bible of a story but just want to make it clear the factual issues. Personally I think I need to change that air filter sensor or possible an O2 sensor. Engine management on due to decat pipe. Car drivers perfectly fine and hits vtec with no issues, thanks in advance.
 
I would start with the cable you found that was split or the sensor on the end of it.
 
I would start with the cable you found that was split or the sensor on the end of it.

Thanks for the quick reply. Think I'm going to go to the car breakers and cut an old sensor from a loom then I can solder it on my one as the cable break is right at the sensor.
 
What is a CEL light? I'm not sure if I do but I've noticed under the steering wheel to the left there seems to be a female socket? Looks like you could plug something in there if I'm right
 
What is a CEL light? I'm not sure if I do but I've noticed under the steering wheel to the left there seems to be a female socket? Looks like you could plug something in there if I'm right

Yeah, that's the OBD II connector. You can buy adapters for it to read engine/sensor data, can be useful in certain circumstances rather than having to resort to decoding a sequence of blinking lights on the dashboard after toggling the ignition in a particular pattern :)

Check Engine Light, the orange/yellow light that looks like an engine outline on the dash. Is that permanently lit?
 
Hi, this may help...

http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Idle...-Kit_p_33.html

It's a cold air assist valve. If you took the manifold off, you'd see the air would enter from the pipe into a cavity on the cylinder head. There's very small pin holes above the injectors where the air would then be drawn in. As the coolant warms up, it closes this valve but gets lazy and takes ages to close.
It's not really needed. It helps with emissions on cold start up.

crowds
 
Yeah, that's the OBD II connector. You can buy adapters for it to read engine/sensor data, can be useful in certain circumstances rather than having to resort to decoding a sequence of blinking lights on the dashboard after toggling the ignition in a particular pattern :)

Check Engine Light, the orange/yellow light that looks like an engine outline on the dash. Is that permanently lit?

Yes it is permenantly lit due to decat pipe but it sometimes hesitates when driving off cold so that's what's got me thinking o2 sensor?
 
Hi, this may help...

http://k-tuned.3dcartstores.com/Idle...-Kit_p_33.html

It's a cold air assist valve. If you took the manifold off, you'd see the air would enter from the pipe into a cavity on the cylinder head. There's very small pin holes above the injectors where the air would then be drawn in. As the coolant warms up, it closes this valve but gets lazy and takes ages to close.
It's not really needed. It helps with emissions on cold start up.

crowds

Thanks man I'll have a look!
 
You shouldn't run these cars on a decat without a remap. People have melted pistons doing this.
 
I've been told by the previous owner it's had a map which was supplied with a bhp print out and is running fine. Only the cold start hunting issue.
 
Easy to check... unplug your battery. Take the glove box out. Unbolt the ECU & open the ECU. If there's a big chip and a little chip in there then it's been chipped, if it's just one big chip then it hasn't.
 
I've been told by the previous owner it's had a map which was supplied with a bhp print out and is running fine. Only the cold start hunting issue.

I wouldn't ever take previous owners words for things, of course he'll tell you it's fine.
 
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