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Ever over-revved your engine and tried to claim warranty?

Dave S

Dave S

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774
Having been contributing to a thread on another forum about a Type R engine that went bang I thought I would drop a line in here as Honda have a sure fire way of finding out if your engine has had a catastrophic failure due to the age old problem of changing down too many gears at once and over-revving the engine to failure.

Now I am not saying the OP on the thread has done that but, investigations are taking place as a con-rod has snapped at the top end, the owner is adamant that it was being driven in a correct manner.
In the meantime, the diagnosis is quite easy - the dealer downloads the ECU data and looks for a certain code that was introduced from 2003, they need to submit the data to Honda Warranty.
The link to the bulletin is HERE, so it really is not worth anyones time telling porkies about what happened, in this real life example on the bulletin the engine attained 22184rpm at 78.64 mph.

For your information the original thread is located HERE.

NOTE - the purpose of this thread is for information about what could happen, please do not use this thread to post anything about the case in question or criticise any persons on there. Thanks.
 
Very good post Dave.

I see it also records Top Speed achieved.
Wouldn't this ECU data be lost if the battery was disconnected:confused:
 
So it ran fine upto 22183rpm then? :wink: :p :lol:

He must had stuck it in first gear! :shock: Ouch!
 
If I remember correctly, Formula 1 cars are limited to 19000 revs - that engine must have gone off like a bomb.
 
Is it possible to check for the over rev code with Hondata K-Pro? Makes no difference to me as my car is out of warranty now anyway, but I'm just curious. Must admit I over revved mine once on a bumpy country road, luckily it was only a bit over 8K
 
Dave S said:
the engine attained 22184rpm at 78.64 mph.
Click to expand...
:eek::eek:

That's F1 engine speeds!! Although even F1 cars are now limited to 19,000rpm :lol:
There's no way Honda will not be able to detect such deliberate abuse IMHO, even without the data log.
So that's still 0% failure for a K20A then is it? :cool:

This story reminds me of my first company car - An Astra - T reg - ended up needing a new motor when I "accidentally" changed from 2nd to 1st instead of 3rd :eek:uch: It was on the lmter in 2nd too as I changed, but I was surprised it didn't go bang or make any noise at all in fact. She just died and the engine management light lit up on the dash!!
 
Just been reading this and unless we have totally re-engineered ECUs to the rest of the world, removing the ecu fuse of disconecting the battery will reset the ecu as there is no functionality for it to hard code to itself. Its the same as any other fault code. If it clears itself or the fault is rectified then the code will remain in the ECU until next reset.
Also i couldnt help but chuckle when i researched hondas fault code re-set tool... a jumper wire :lol:
 
I remember of a similar thread in the French forum, where a guy had his engine dying on the motorway. After checking the ECU his dealer told him he over-revved it. He argued this and Honda showed him that same screen + the actual rings and pistons which were bend exactly like in another Honda bulletin, that describes the interior of a k20a when overreving.

It's well documented and basically if you over-rev for long enough and are unlucky enough to brake your engine, it's a dead issue. There's no point arguing , just bring your cheque book out and buy a new fully build engine :twisted:
 
Not sure that I entirely agree with the prospect of damaging a K20A just by prolonged "over-revving". My CTR had a hell of a thrashing, every single day of the 14000ish miles that I put on it. From the condition it was handed to me in, I believe that the 58000 miles prior to me getting it were also hard.

Every time I drove down the M50 and A40 it was foot flat. Anyone who knows the A40 from Ross-on-Wye to Abergavenny will knowthat there's a 7 mile section, witha gentle downhill gradient for most of the way. I used to rev it flat in every gear, every time I drove it, including limiter in 5th and holding it flat in 6th for the entire 7 miles, plus the many miles of hard accelerating prior to getting to that point, and a significantly hard time everwhere else. Now if that's not over-revving for long enough, then God only knows what is?? :lol:

Never had a problem with it, and would even spend my own money on another one and enjoy it in exactly the same manner :wink:
 
Now if that's not over-revving for long enough, then God only knows what is?? :lol:
Click to expand...
Thats actually revving up to the rev limiter.

The over revving on this thread is when you are doing some ungodly speed say in 6th gear, and decide that you need to down shift to 4th, avoiding 5th but inadvertantly engage 2nd, when you lift your foot off the clutch and engage drive the engine revs will momentarily rise far above what the engine can handle hence the expensive, non warrantable engine failure.

Remember the rev limiter will only work going up the gearbox, not down.
 
Dave S said:
Thats actually revving up to the rev limiter.

The over revving on this thread is when you are doing some ungodly speed say in 6th gear, and decide that you need to down shift to 4th, avoiding 5th but inadvertantly engage 2nd, when you lift your foot off the clutch and engage drive the engine revs will momentarily rise far above what the engine can handle hence the expensive, non warrantable engine failure.

Remember the rev limiter will only work going up the gearbox, not down.
Click to expand...

Well that explains things a bit more clearly regarding comments obout "driving along a motorway and over-revving". And I did once blow up an engine by dropping the clutch from limiter in 2nd and back to first instead of 3rd :oops: Good job it was a company car :lol:
 
:O

I used to miss 5th & hit 3rd when I 1st got the car. Going into second @ that speed is a bit ''derrrrrrr'' though! :eek:
 
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