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EP3 What did you do to your EP3 today?

Can you video the dash on a pull so we can see if it is abnormal? That should show any differences to normal.

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Tanny said:
How did you drop it?
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Jacking it up with the long-reach under the rear suspension mount/beam running across the middle of the car (so that I could stick a stand on either side so I could work under it). The new Schutz coating I'd had applied acted like a sheet, slipped away from the beam, and the whole car shifted forward. As soon as it'd shifted enough it slipped free and the car, unsupported, fell onto the raised saddle of the jack.

The frustrating part is that the new coating was the cause of the problem in more ways than one since I only started to jack it up so I could re-seat the handbrake cable guides/seals which they hadn't put back right when they had finished.
 
My first weekend with my 62k Cosmic Grey Premier EP3.

I first replaced the Magnex back box on the exhaust, with an OEM one. Then the AEM V2 air intake was replaced with a standard airbox. The car was then washed, clay barred and waxed. New spark plugs , air filter, oil and oil filter followed. All this is down to me preferring a standard car and knowing some of the service tasks are up to date, even though service history is complete.

Unfortunately the gearbox/airbox support bracket has been removed, I suspect to make room for the AEM's air filter, so the hunt is on for one of those!

Next week i'm replacing front discs and pads, then looking into wheel refurb, decent tyres, 4wheel alignment and ultimately getting the underside rustproofed.

Cheers

Steve
 
I ordered a bigger bunch of parts from Tegiwa Imports today, the list goes:
- red anodized wheel nuts
- red anodized battery tie
- red anodized engine bay bolt kit
- RPB front brake discs
- front strut brace
- brake stopper

FYI the "forum25" discount code still works
 
I got the black wheel nuts off Tegiwa with the adaptor washers and don't like them so will sell soon,

Also bought the battery tie down from them and fitting kit which you have to chop to fit.

And tbh I got the engine bay kit and was not impressed, there is so much in the kit that I have no idea where they are supposed to go and some like the rocker cover and plug cover that do not fit.

I wish you luck with them! I'm still using the RPB discs though and can't fault them.
 
These are the nuts but they poke out way too far for my liking, maybe they would be more suited to an aftermarket wheel and not the OEM.

Still gotta stick my new stickers on my centre caps hence why they are missing.
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Some people like it, when the wheel nuts stick out so far, personally I also do not. Indeed, having taken a look at the Tegiwa wheel nuts had me thinking the same, so I decided to go with the shortest Muteki closed wheel nuts. The handling mods speak for themselves, I am most curious about the brake stopper, but we'll see how the cosmetics turn out. With all the shiny new bits, I will repaint the rocker cover, and give the engine bay a wash. Hopefully none of the electronics will mind the pressure washer at low setting.
 
Cool, when cleaning the engine bay cover the sensors with cling film and foil, I personally wouldnt use a pressure washer, I have always used a normal hose with a spray gun attachment.

Also when painting your rocker, take your time, and good preparation will give you better results, some people rush it and the end results are not as good.

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Vitka said:
With all the shiny new bits, I will repaint the rocker cover, and give the engine bay a wash. Hopefully none of the electronics will mind the pressure washer at low setting.
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When cleaning my engine bay I cover over any electrics etc with cling film.

Although I don't use a pressure washer, I tend to use a spray bottle with Bilt Hamber Surfex and a brush to clean the dirt off.



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Thanks for the advice guys. I still live in an apartment, so I don't have access to a garden hose. Fortunately one of the hand car wash stations nearby has a low pressure setting, that roughly resembles a tap hose with a spray attachment. I think my engine bay has never been cleaned, so I will definately need some heavy duty stuff, and a plan. Bilt Hamber Surfex looks nice, but I think it's not available in Hungary, I might have to look for something similar.
 
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So finally managed to put my centre cap stickers on, went for a carbon effect.

Going to clear coat them then put them on when the weather brightens up.

Ep3 is back on the round but being off the round about a year had to free up a binding caliper, still gotta sort the fob issue. There is a slight wobble in the steering wheel at motorway speeds probably where they didnt balance the wheels tidy after the refurb but all in all it still drives really well.
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Checked the oil level after the weekend trip and was horrified. In this heat, outside the city, 1 litre of oil doesn't even last 1000 kms. I knew my engine was a bit worn, bit it's absolutely out of hand now. I am looking for parts, I will probably have a new set of piston rings and valve stem sealings fitted to get my oil usage back to factory levels. I hope the con rod bearings are okay.

Seriously, it feels like driving a 2 stroke #-o
 
Flashy said:
What grade are you using?
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5w40 as recommended by many, Liqui Moly Top Tec 4100 at the moment, it is not fully synthetic, only about 80%, but that's a good thing. The ester based Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 5W40 went from top to bottom in a tank of fuel, normal driving. The liqui halved the oil consumption, but it's still a lot, currently I lose 1 litre per 1,7-1,8 tanks of fuel.
 
Uh oh, that isn't good at all. I'd want to have an idea of where it's going before a strip down. Have you compression tested, or leak down tested it to see which cylinders are worst?

If you get varying results dry and then with oil in the cylinders that'll tell you if it's the rings. Which it most likely will be I guess. With no other running issues or noises that sounds most likely.

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