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Thanks Hazz. Guess I'll be trying to find them at the best price I can. Other than just phoning round the dealerships (Lings, Cox, local etc.) do you have any suggestions?

Hi all. I'm currently rebuilding the rear suspension on my EP3 (arches, suspension, bushings, etc.) and was wondering if anyone had particular feelings on top-mount replacements for the rear. Are third-parties any good, are there names to go for in particular (and names to avoid), do I just...

I figure you've had a browse around already, but if not, consider handling first, performance later. Performance is a bottomless pit, you can always throw more money into the hole to extract smaller and smaller gains. If yours is a UK market EP3 then it could probably do with improvement to its...

190 compared to 215 is a 12% drop, that seems significant. If it were single digit percentages I might not be worried but that feels like a big number.

That's quite tidy. Do you have any pictures of what it was like before it went on (mostly so I can see how the cut/install of the scoop would fit compared to the butchery that goes on with the OEM one)?

Replacing ABS sensors... grrr! A tip for anyone who's seen their ABS light come on, and worked out which sensor it is (I did so by borrowing a very expensive OBD2 reader with ABS functionality): Working out the causes of ABS failure is harder than it should be. I was lucky that I have a...

The box is generally what has a significant effect on sound, have you considered the Hondata airbox mod instead if you're after more induction noise but want things to look the same?

I've always found these guys good on an exchange basis - https://www.brakesint.co.uk/

Some of the A-roads leading west into Aberystwyth are quite pleasant (actually a fair bit around that part makes for fun drives)

B6 are built for lowering. If the drop is 15mm it's probably of little value.

Sure there are, you're just not in a low enough gear :D

I use my mirrors as guides for how close I can get to the door frame and walls of my garage so that I'll have enough room to open the door and get out of the car. If I folded them I'd have issues :)

The more fun part is how many people buy with the terminals the wrong way around (+ve at top right instead of top left) which means people rotate the battery and have the terminals uncomfortably close to various bits and pieces and a risk of fire.

You'd need to either: Get a km/h->mph electronic adapter which sits behind the instrument cluster and adjusts the ~1.6x pulses to 1 pulse Replace the gearbox cog for the sensor and the cluster so that the pulses from the box come out as miles and the dash is in miles In my opinion the latter...

Backpressure and scavenging are a big thing with NA engines. I think changing the exhaust manifold (and/or decat) without mapping on a K20 is generally a bad idea as it can cause the engine to run lean.

Those look quite clean, you could probably just leave them. I have a tendency to replace the basics when I buy a new car though, so I know what the state of things is rather than guessing. It costs a bit more but at least then you could be sure. Another option is to call the dealer the stamp...

To clear up any confusion on this (since I wondered too). Pin 4 is chassis ground, pin 5 is signal ground from the ECU; pin 9 is SCS from the ECU. Either of the grounds will work. Since the self-check isn't a signal line I'm not sure which would be better, but 4 will work no matter what.

"For spares or repair"?

Schematics are available from lings parts site.

Second request for pics of the dire wheel work. I survive through the suffering of others.

You can't maintain negative pressure on the valve cover with the velocity stack in use?

I think mine's actually worse than that :( It's something I need to get to soon

I guess it could be damage to (or poor connection, or simply the age of) the coilpacks, it's a hard one to test though :(

I believe that means the engine is experiencing misfires, be careful.

You'll annoy your neighbours because the fan doesn't kick in until the engine's warm, but hopefully that will help. Resetting the ECU will also mean the long-term fuel trim will be lost which means it'll take a while (a few hundred miles maybe) until its fuel use and general behaviour settles...

To do an ECU reset: Turn the ignition switch OFF, and remove the #6 ECU (ECM) fuse (15A) from the engine bay fuse box for 10 seconds. To do the idle-learn: from cold, make sure that all electrical stuff is off (air con, radio, lights, rear demister, etc.), turn the car to ON and wait for at...

A view of the ddsh/touchscreens https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XLOWXr1limQ

Sure it's not to do with stability control? If this wasn't a modern car you could be sideways in a hedge or something

Has someone (previous service, overzealous brake pad replacement mechanic, etc.) possibly adjusted the handbrake so there's no free play at all in the handle? With the rear brake partially continuously applied that could also mean parts of it have overheated. If the cable itself is undamaged...

Are you, first of all, sure that the slide pins on the rear calipers aren't sticking? Have you lifted the centre console section that sits over the handbrake lever and loosened the adjuster so that there's free play in the handbrake lever, does it still bind? Have you unhooked the cables from...

Which model is it? If it's not en EK9 civic or a DC2 Integra then it'll have a cam chain. You'll also likely want a tensioner and new guides. If the noises coming from it are anything other than a very light sound you should probably have the head off to check if any of the valves have been bent.

Given the age/miles it's quite likely the chain (or belt, if you have an EK9) has stretched, quite possibly skipped teeth, and the engine is now running out-of-phase (with the result being your timing is way off, and possibly other issues). Worst case you're going to end up with the valves...

Possible issues: Cam chain stretched or damaged Cam position sensor malfunctioning (less likely) How many miles has the car done? Has it had the cam chain replaced already? How frequently are oil changes performed? Do you ensure the oil level remains between the markers...

I guess you could call it that. The video has it (above 4k rpm) but you need either decent headphones or a fair boost on the volume. There's no cat heatshield (or at least nothing directly wrapped around it any more). I'll try applying some pressure to the driveshaft and manifold ones though...

Yeah, I was semi-hopeful someone might just have heard/had something similar, not expecting miracles. I'm in the South-East, West Sussex, near Horsham. Thanks Loxy.

Clearances were done end of 2017 (maybe 10,000Mi ago I think, I'll have to recheck that since I have the paperwork but hadn't added it to my spreadsheet), oil level is fine (was serviced at the beginning of the year and I check up on it quite frequently). It's all the more frustrating because...

Glad it's not just me then, I've had a few in various places :|

That is looking glorious

While it's out, might be worth getting the frame checked over and maybe rust treated?

I think it depends on whether someone secured them with screws or rivets. Are you sure they're genuine? I guess you need to get them off to work it out (the rear of the pedals is machine-cut with serial numbers, the mugen name, etc. on the real thing).

I'm trying to work out what the cause of this noise is. Any help would be appreciated because it's a little disconcerting and it's really hard to pin down when looking directly at the engine (drowned in the rest of the sound). It's quite obvious in this clip though and shows up somewhere around...

Aww Dutchy, no :( Really sorry to see that. I'm impressed you're still willing to put in the time and effort though, bravo. Are you sure just buying a replacement wouldn't work out cheaper?

If you're not tuning, there's no benefit. It's also only visible if you've taken the engine cover off.

And those screws (OEM or otherwise) are generally crap :) I ended up buying my own. Some people install the discs without, I just use better screws that aren't made of rust-prone chocolate and aren't philips/pozi meaning I can actually get a driver that will install/remove them cleanly.

Do you have a budget? Because suggestions will vary dependent on that. One of the best available in terms of low (but pleasant) sound, and overall quality, is just over £700 for the catback (Fujitsubo Legalis R or RM01A). See my EP3 thread below for details.

The FK2 has adjustable dampers and a lot of other changes making for a bit of a different drive to the FN2 though :)

The crashy nature will probably get a bit tiresome, as will the consumption of more than a tank of fuel a week. They are really good fun on the b-roads though. Sadly I think this is on you and exactly how much you can put up with.

Thank you. Sorry I forgot that this was this discussion :) The solder work in your picture looks original as far as I can tell. I seem to recall there were companies like Icetronix who did map/flash the PRA ECU, so I guess it could have had something like that done to it. I hope you eventually...

The EP3 shell is seam-welded in places too whereas the EP2 is not, this makes the body more rigid (part of the reason for its cost increase). Instrument cluster is different, wiring loom is likely to be since the EP3 runs the K20 and the EP2 runs the D16V1 so it's a completely different family.

Just out of interest. Why? The pulley is clutched so there's no parasitic drain when the air-con isn't operational.

Has the 80k one been rust-treated? Have you been underneath it to see the kind of condition it's in? I think, personally, I'd go for the fresh import, the other has 11 years of UK ownership under its belt.

Have/did you open the lid on your current ECU to see if it has been messed with (new solder work, different socketed EPROM, separate daughter-card etc.)?

Third gen prelude only ran the B20 and B21 block if I remember correctly, so the engine-bay layout should be similar.

I do like the roadster, I put some images/video in here I think - https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?102703-Honda-EV-concept-cars

The fuel filter should be up against the firewall in the engine bay. I'm pretty sure it's one of these - https://www.mister-auto.co.uk/fuel-filter/nps/h133a13/

Sadly, unless you have a key-programmer, it's a Honda job (or with someone who does have a key programmer). I've been looking into this myself of late, it's the one big annoyance I have, since most other stuff can be done by yourself without too much trouble.

Red and ground (chassis or battery terminal) you get 0 when untouched, does it change at all when you move the throttle-plate? How do you have this hooked up, that is - how have to arranged a connection to the TPS when it's also plugged into the wiring harness?

No codes? Does the CEL light up briefly before you start the engine? You could try using SManager to see what kind of crazy map it's got installed - https://www.hondata.com/smanager

https://www.engadget.com/2019/07/04/honda-e-prototype-goodwood-hillclimb/ just a little more recent news and figures.

It's probably also about 1/3 the surface-area

Good to hear you got it sorted! Thanks for the update.

Hi, welcome to the party :) Do you know (other than the wheel colour) if it's had much other work done already?

Nice car, and a nice camera too, welcome! :)

I wonder whether getting a decent glass polishing solution and buffer might be the required solution here, sounds like something might have slightly etched the glass?

Methinks he might be suggesting you use one of them to modify, then can just pop the other on if there's a time you need to take it in for warranty work etc. rather than needing to cut/weld bits on and off.

I'm pretty sure the FK8 exhaust is a one-piece system, so there's no "b-pipe" as such and any removals would require modifying the catback directly.

Do you have an Android or Apple phone? If Android then get the Torque app and something like the OBDLink LX - https://www.amazon.co.uk/OBDLink-427201-ScanTool-Bluetooth-Professional-x/dp/B00H9S71LW - if Apple it's a bit more awkward.

I remember reading that one of those might have had an issue with binding, making future adjustment a challenge, but now I can't remember which. Searching on here for camber arms might lead you to some decent discussion and past people asking the same questions.

No, that's dogging, slightly different.

Hardrace do a set, not the cheapest, but the quality is quite good. https://www.torque-gt.co.uk/hardrace-rear-camber-arms-hardened-rubber-civic-ep3-integra-dc5.html - for example (though maybe you can find others stocking them)

All misfire based and definitely shouldn't be driven in that state :( Could be anything from plugs back to spark distribution, engine running lean (maybe your OBD reader can tell you that, depends on what you have), vacuum leak (check for disconnected or missing hoses, loose segments of the...

I'm with you on that (then again I'm not a fan of the Mini at the best of times)

Nice work so far (and welcome) :) The boot/spare-well rust could be due to the rear light foam/seals. You might want to pull the rear clusters and check if water's getting in that way or just outright replace the foam (otherwise you're just going to have to repeat the kurust process all over...

Don't drive it, get a cheap OBD 2 unit, read the code using a laptop or if you have an Android phone then a couple of quid on the Torque app. It's possible to read the codes without something like this but it's a lot less pleasant, for example -...

I swear there's some kind of necromancer at work, maybe a lich. Something is raising all these undead members, it's a little disconcerting. I need an old priest and a young priest. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoosDbx2TCs

The JDM is fine, likely significantly cheaper too?

The Dinitrol treatment is a nice touch

might help if you posted full urls :)

The whole point of a back-box is a well-designed baffle. It's the thing that should reduce noise without having a significant impact on flow. Removing or modifying an existing one is not an activity to be taken lightly.

Why? :confused:

The standard airbox was designed with a few things in mind, some of which compete against one-another. It has to provide decent airflow, but balances that off against minimal (induction) noise. The mod increases airflow a little by removing the fins which provide a little turbulence to the...

Taking the bumper off isn't a huge job, 4 clips on top, 4 below, two screws below, clips and screws in wheel arch, then it should pop off. Pretty sure there's a fair number of videos of this on youtube. Be careful of the fog lights cable if you have one, otherwise it should be quite simple. You...

I've ordered some 3M VHB tape, I have a feeling that might be a little too aggressive, but we'll see. I've also got some proper weather seal adhesive for the rubber strip which is going to be a bit annoying to use, but hopefully a little more flexible and long-term than superglue. I tend to have...

I know this is raising the dead, so I'm hoping you're still here. I saw around pg8/9 that you'd pulled the skirts off, I'm wondering what you used as a replacement for the tacky adhesive that held the skirt against the chassis on the rectangular foam block at the start of the rubber strip?

There's also the Wavetrac which is quite nice (just to make life more complicated for you :) )

The key enacts a physical manipulation of the lock, so yes, it'll open the door.

It's generally better to do them on both sides (since it's likely both have the same wear-and-tear if one's failed). OEM are fine, I'd tended to use Lemforder parts before since they seemed a little better built, or you can move to something very rugged like the Meyle HD parts. I'd asked the...

PCV is under vacuum by default so that oil can be pulled from the case into the intake to be burnt (or, if you have a catch-can, otherwise discarded). Without the vacuum it'd be operating differently than intended.

Exhaust manifold? New catback? Removing cat entirely?

You'll need an alignment/tracking adjustment done after fitting new shocks/springs anyway, so the difference really is whether you also fit camber bolts and have them align it to the FRSU, or whether you settle for a standard configuration.

According to a few sources the cat can take around 10 miles before it's operating correctly. This is why short journeys are a killer on both the environment and your long-term fuel trims, because the O2 readings never settle to something sane.

If you have an Android phone and you're willing to pay for a properly decent reader it'll be maybe $US60 (I'd recommend the OBDLink LX) - https://torque-bhp.com/wiki/Bluetooth_Adapters and the Torque app. If you have an Apple phone then you'll need to get a wi-fi based reader rather than a...

Try a test-mode/cluster calibration https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cGf3t9nRbP4 might make a difference, might not

I come back to this every few years just because I like interesting solutions to complex problems. https://patents.google.com/patent/US6968819 - Advanced VTEC, infinitely variable timing and lift. No wild lobes, just freedom to vary from minimum to maximum lift throughout. From another...

I think they meant "would new FD still be annoying for a daily-driver if I also had a taller 6th for motorway and open-road cruising?"

The most easy to get to is probably Ling's Honda parts. It used to be that you could change the URL on their old site to get the OEM part number (rather than something Ling-specific), but now you have to add te things you're interested in to your cart and then look in the cart for the OEM part...

Jacking it up with the long-reach under the rear suspension mount/beam running across the middle of the car (so that I could stick a stand on either side so I could work under it). The new Schutz coating I'd had applied acted like a sheet, slipped away from the beam, and the whole car shifted...

Weird :( I have no further suggestions other than to find a way to fully reset the alarm (or, sadly, take it in somewhere)