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242bhp now want more! Advice please

The problem is, as I'm sure you're are rapidly becoming aware is that it just costs too much to tune these cars ATM. You're very limited on companies that produce quality products outside of Japan and subsequently anything that you will want to buy comes with a hefty price tag. Even second hand.

Yes it's the same with any car you reach the point of diminishing returns, I'd like to stick with these cars though iv done the big bhp scoobies I like the idea of having a sleeper, and the fact that can average half decent mpg's when I haven't got my foot down
 
OK guys lets keep the silly posts to a minimum. Spoon socks are worth no more than 5 bhp each without a remap, anyone who claims otherwise is just a fool.
 
Ok I think we all agree spoon socks are worth 15+ ponies atleast, has any one done much with Jdm/dc5 cams are there much gains to be had there? I hear Tdi north are working on some more aggressive cams that's use the original valve train
 
I think most people would be happy with 242bhp from an EP3 in fairness, your going to have to spend mega money to take it to the next level if you want to keep it N/A. Putting the car on a diet would be a good idea as mentioned above, having 242bhp your power to weight ratio will be approx 200 per tonne which is pretty damn good! The original exhaust backbox, b pipe, cat, downpipe & exhaust manifold are very heavy so looking at your modifications you have probably already shaved off close to 20KG's.

Removing the back seats, spare wheel and various trim could save another 25-30 KG's and maybe a lighter set of rims could shed another 15-20KG's

I think the standard kerb weight for an EP3 is 1205 KG's so if you did the above the car would weigh around 1140KG's (bhp per tonne would be 212 ish :))

Either that or stick a charger on there!
 
Just to note a standard WRX STI Impreza has around 185-190 bhp per tonne so you should be happy with anything near 200 :)
 
You could try upgrading/replacing your current set-up, with parts that are reputably proven.. i.e swap the mani for like a Toda? and go for a Toda Cat-back etc. - having said that, 242bhp is a good figure... and reputable parts set-ups are all usually good for 240's anyway..
 
Yes I think going lighter is the most inexpensive way to increase performance and does usually result in better braking and handling too! I'm tempted to try and source a cheap second hand charger in the winter when I don't use it as much, was just gauging opinions if there's is any other bolts ons before I potentially charge it,
And on the scoobies you've got 4wd drivetrain losses that do add up!!
I did think about swapping to better quality kit such as toda when they come up! I didn't think 242bhp were very good figures for the mods but seems there atleast average :)
 
Yes I think going lighter is the most inexpensive way to increase performance and does usually result in better braking and handling too!

I've always wondered if taking stuff out the rear would improve handling, wouldn't it upset the balance of the car as you're taking weight out of the back with the front remaining the same?
 
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242bhp is pretty much the norm with the modifications you have done, perhaps a Toda Manifold may add a couple more bhp but I wouldnt expect anything over 245 really. Not exactly sure what impact losing weight to the rear end would have on the handling, I pressume it would make it more twitchy in the corners because the suspension would be raised slightly due to the weight loss.

FRSU with Eibach springs & rear camber arms should help though
 
japspeed manifold wont let you down ive got one on my rotrex ep3 running 380hp and it hasnt skipped a beat.
 
On a scale of 1 to 10, assuming the car is k100/Kpro with aftermartket b pipe and intake, how much would the exhaust manifold add to the mid range?
 
Iv seen before and after dyno charts from adding a manifold and there very similar only seem to add to peak figures not much mid range, you might be right about weight loss making the back end twitchy I remember an article in top gear magazine when they stripped out a normal car and it went round the track slower and they commented it had ruined the handling
 
Iv seen before and after dyno charts from adding a manifold and there very similar only seem to add to peak figures not much mid range, you might be right about weight loss making the back end twitchy I remember an article in top gear magazine when they stripped out a normal car and it went round the track slower and they commented it had ruined the handling

Really, so road driving it won't really make much of a difference? Looking for best value pound for pound.
 
K100/kpro will make it quicker in normal driving, manifold if definitely worth having though will make a difference with mapping
 
The next step if your staying N/A is a bigger throttle and cams.

There are some good drop in cams on the market right now. These are stage one cams that run on OEM valve springs.

A 70mm throttle with port matched RBC and a set of Drag cartel DIC's will be worth around +15hp
 
What throttle body are you using? Iv heard about these drag cartel cams do you know where you can get them from? 15bhp isn't a bad hike
 
All in all, I think I spent about £7k modding my EP3.

Carbon this that etc and a turbo. 319bhp 210lbft IIRC.

Would I do it again? Yes. However I would have changed a few of the choices I made.
 
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