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Right guys, I hope your sitting comfortably! I’ve also got to get myself comfortable cos this is gonna be a lonnnnnngggg post!!
I’ve owned my JDM EP3 for nearly 3 months now, it’s my second EP3 with a NHB 30AE being my first about a year and a half ago. But I’m no stranger to Honda’s, with this particular EP3 being my 11th Honda!
I bought the car off of Nathan (Nat-01) on here back in September, :bigthumb: I travelled a round trip of 500 miles to collect it and bring it home, which was well worth it! Before Nathan bought the car it was owned by another forum member – b2uce, he bought the car when it was first imported by Torque-GT, so it’s been enthusiast owned since being in the UK.
Quick overview of the car:-
2001 (51) JDM EP3 Civic Type R
C Pack which consists of:-
- Bi-xenon HID headlights
- Electric folding mirrors
- Rear privacy glass
- Automatic climate control
- Outside temperature sensor
- Keyless entry
Mod list to date:-
EXTERIOR-
As Honda intended at the moment (unsure if that will change)
INTERIOR-
Mugen gear knob
Red alcantara gearshift boot and handbrake gaiter
JDM original red Type R mats
JDM flare (still live)
Sony Xplod headunit
Tein EDFC control unit
ENGINE-
Mugen airbox
Mugen twin loop cat back exhaust system
Mugen rad cap
Facelift engine bay front wing trims
TRANSNISSION-
Powerflex gearbox mount insert
Tegiwa aluminium shifter bushes
CHASSIS-
Tein Superstreet coilovers with adjustable pillow ball top mounts and EDFC control
Tanabe under car H brace
D2 rear lower control arms
Eibach / SPC rear camber arms
Superpro bushes throughout with caster increase
Tegiwa steering arm relocation bracket
Area / DRM Motorsport fast road set up
BRAKES-
Stop-tech grooved discs
Ferodo DS2500 pads
Mugen braided and rubber coated brake hoses
Premier Edition Type R embossed calipers
WHEELS / TYRES-
Standard Championship White alloys
Yokohama Parada Spec 2 tyres
When I bought the car off of Nathan it was in very good condition for an import, I am a perfectionist though so I did pick up on a few blemishes when I went to view it, a couple which Nathan was very honest about which I appreciated. They were a quite badly chipped front bumper which had unfortunately been pretty badly touched up in which didn’t look like championship white paint. The rear bumper had an odd mark on it which wouldn’t polish out, and the drivers front wing had obviously been resprayed at some point and it wasn’t a good colour match. Fortunately for me I have a mate who owns a bodyshop so on my way home I rang him and arranged for it to be taken into his bodyshop the very next day to get these imperfections sorted! I waste no time!!
Since buying it I’ve been taking plenty of photos of the car as I do work on it to create this ‘build’ thread.
To start things off I always go a bit mad on detailing a car when I first buy it, this way it makes the car feel more like ‘my car’. But what really prompted me to get stuck in to the detailing of this car was when I got the car up on axle stands to change the current suspension that was on it. There was nothing wrong with the suspension that was on it, in fact it was virtually brand new and cost Nathan £900. I had a Bilstein B12 shock and spring suspension set up which was fine, but 2 things bugged me about it, 1- the front of the car sat higher than the rear (which really bugs me!) and 2-it was a surprisingly firm ride for just shocks and springs. So, I sold the Bilsteins to another forum member and mate of mine alexunderwood :bigthumb: and bought a set of Tein Superstreet coilovers with EDFC control from forum member zetec-s :bigthumb: This way I could obviously set the height of *** car how I wanted and also adjust the damper setting for how hard or soft I want it all at the touch of a button inside the car! Happy days! Killing 2 birds with 1 stone me thinks.
So this is how the car sat feeling sorry for itself for 5 weeks whilst I replaced the suspension, and took advantage of it being on axle stands to fit new front antiroll bar drop links, tidy up the brake calipers and discs/hubs, thoroughly clean, polish and wax the wheels, de-grease and detail the engine bay, and give the whole car a good detail to bring it back to its former glory.
To start it was out with the old (well they weren’t exactly old!) big thanks to SeanEP3 for lending a hand to remove it all and for loaning me his far superior tools compared to mine! :bigthumb:
And in with the new (well they aren’t exactly new!)
And fitted!
Whilst removing the Bilsteins we noticed that my front anti-roll bar drop links were shagged to say the least, which explained the slight knocking I had.....
So I ordered some new drop links and got them fitted at the same time as fitting the Teins to kill 2 birds with 1 stone. Here is a pic with the new front antiroll bar drop links fitted, much better! And cured the knocking!
So whilst the wheels were removed and the car was sitting on axle stands I took advantage and gave the wheels a thorough clean as they were covered inside and most of the outside with baked on brake dust which looked awful and really let the car down in my opinion. Now 2 years ago I wouldn’t of hesitated and I would of got them refurbished, but these days with a family to feed I don’t often have £200+ to shell out on getting them done, so I resulted in good old elbow grease! A long process that wasn’t 100% worth the time or effort if I’m honest but they are a hell of a lot better than what they were when I bought the car.
The state the wheels were in....
I don’t normally like using Wonder Wheels as I know its harsh stuff and pretty much neat acid, but I needed something harsh to get the baked on brake dust off, so took the plunge and bought some to start the wheel cleaning off.
Here you can see an obvious line where I cleaned a section of the inside of the wheel with Wonder wheels
Another irritating bit on the wheels was the sticky crap that was left on the inside of the wheels from old weights....
After some vigorous determination they were removed from all wheels to a must cleaner look......
.
Once all the wheels were cleaned with Wonder Wheels it was clear to see what areas needed more attention, this was mostly in-between the spokes and the inside of the wheel, so I went over all of the wheels with some Auto Glym Intensive Tar Remover which surprisingly cut through more of the stubborn areas that the Wonder Wheels didn’t seem to touch.
Once these areas were tackled I then gave all of the wheels including the inside of the wheels a coat of T-Cut, I used this to basically ‘clean’ the paint on the wheels.
The cleaning continued through a further 2 stages of Meguiars, which consisted of a polish, and finally to finish them off a camauba wax. And here is a finished product!....... (complete with a trial of red wheel nuts to see how they’d look)
Once the wheels were all clean and out of the way I cracked on with refurbishing the brake calipers and discs as they looked awful. It looked like someone had painted the calipers red, which is fine but they were badly done, and then had painted the ‘Type R’ embossed logo white, but again that was done badly and looked like it was done with tipex! Here is how they looked......
Now when I say they were done badly this is just one of the points that irritates me and makes it obvious to me that it was all a rush job. The metal anti-squeal clips were all painted which shows that the calipers weren’t removed from the hubs when they were done. Pretty lazy if you ask me as it only takes 5 minutes to remove each caliper! Just like the wheels all the clips had baked on brake dust (I know that’s obviously to be expected!)
So out came the Wonder wheels again and I soaked them in a bowl of the stuff over night to work its magic.....
The next bit was to get rid of all the red paint, unfortunately for me I didn’t have any paint thinners, so had the tedious process of removing it with sand paper! But patients paid off and they came out looking like new!
I re-painted the calipers and brake discs (the hub part) with Hammerite Direct to Rust paint. I’ve used this on several previous cars and it seems pretty good stuff, a lot cheaper than say Folia Tec calliper paint and it covers well only needing a couple of coats, seems very durable too.
The finished product......
Whilst all the wheels were off I had easy access to take the opportunity to take some photos of the many purple Superpro bushes that are throughout the chassis! :twisted:
D2 rear lower control arms
Eibach / SPC rear camber arms
Now with the wheels, brakes, and suspension sorted it was time to crack on with the detailing! I started of with de-greasing and cleaning the engine bay. If I’m going to have a clean and well looked after car on the outside then I want it to be clean and well looked after everywhere else, even in the areas that aren’t seen very often! So armed with a bottle of Auto Glym Engine and machine cleaner and a hard bristled detailing brush I started to clean that dirty engine bay and surrounding areas such as under bonnet etc.
Here are a few pics of how dirty the engine bay was....
Under the airbox, showing the dirt and Powerflex gearbox mount insert
The under bonnet after a clean with the engine and machine cleaner......
In order to get to the bodywork underneath and alongside the airbox I had to remove it. For anyone who has not seen the Mugen airbox dismantled here it is......
Pretty huge air filter!
And the bottom half of the airbox with the filter removed. Surprisingly smooth inside with no channelling fins like the OEM airbox
Tegiwa aluminium shifter bushes which are obviously located under the airbox and on top of the gearbox.....
Once I had finished the engine bay I moved onto other areas of the car which were a bit grubby. I noticed the inside of the bootlid and it’s hinges were pretty dirty so again used the Auto Glym engine and machine cleaner to de-grease / clean the area. A recommendation to anyone who uses this particular cleaning product on bodywork, it’s safe to use on it but it will need to be rinsed off BEFORE it dries! This will prevent any hard to remove streaks that will be left. If you don’t manage to rinse it off quick enough then a simple wash down and polish will bring the bodywork back up to a non streak finish.
The bootlid area before cleaning-
And once cleaned......
Whilst working on the bootlid I noticed that the rear licence plate bulb holders were brown with years of road grime and were preventing a bright light to light up the rear number plate. They are plastic bulb holders so I removed them to give them a clean and a polish. Here is how they looked when I removed them from the bootlid-
Here is a pic of one which was cleaned and then polished using T-cut (on the right obviously) the one on the left being a non cleaned.
And both cleaned and T-cutted.......
Whilst the bulb holders were out I took the opportunity to replace the dull normal 501 wedge bulbs for some white SMD LED bulbs.
Keeping it JDM y0! :mrgreen:
The difference that cleaning / T-cutting the bulb holders did as well as fitting the SMD LED bulbs was pretty awesome!.......
One thing that really bothered me and something that I have always thought is very un-honda like is the pre-facelift engine bay where the front wings bolt onto the car. As you can see from these pictures it looks very un-finished in my opinion-
....something the facelift models don’t suffer with as they have these black plastic trims that slot into place to make everything look neat and tidy and most importantly, - finished! Thanks to forum member CTR_lee for these! :bigthumb:
Much better!!
Another bulb I decided to change was the front side light bulbs, I had crappy single dim white LED bulbs in there when I bought the car. I’m not 100% about LED side light bulbs as I think they can look a bit chivvy, so instead of resorting back to boring standard bulbs I thought I’d go for a USDM style amber sidelight to be a bit different. I bought some Silvertec amber bulbs to keep a clean look on the headlights during the day, but obviously light up amber when switched on.
The crappy LED side light bulbs that were fitted when I bought the car-
With the Silvertec amber bulbs fitted, but with a clean silver look during the day- (the headlights were hazy and dull when I first bought the car, but its amazing how a couple of coated of T-cut can bring them up like new!)
With them switched on-
And a night shot with the xenons switched on as well-
Now with all the fiddly bits out of the way it was time to get cracking with the bodywork! The bodywork was in pretty good nick when I bought the car but I like to give any new car (new to me) a thorough polish and wax so I know its protected. So out came the cleaning box again and the whole car got the full meguiars treatment! But before the polishing started I went around the whole car with some Auto Glym Intensive Tar remover to get rid of any tough baked on road grime and tar. Once that bit was out of the way the meguiars stage 1 polish was applied, which is basically a paint cleaner / de-oxidiser, then a stage 2 polish which is your general deep shine polish, then a final coat of the stage 3 camauba wax.
And here is the final outcome!........
Some reflection shots for you, both sides and bonnet reflection....
Freshly painted calipers and hubs make a big difference....
Its all about that JDM badge of Great Britian!
Mugen Power!
Some JDM stickers for your ass!
Some more engine bay pics and under bonnet clean-ness......
And finally here are some interior pics. Unfortunately I didn’t take any pics of the interior when I first bought it, completely forgot and got cleaning it straight away before I realised I hadn’t taken any ‘before’ pics. It was all in good condition, no horrible marks on the seats or mats, just needed a pretty good clean, so got out the Auto Glym interior shampoo which is awesome stuff and brought the seats up like new! Could do with a very mild clean again but here are some pics of it currently.....
Mugen gear knob, odd looking thing but I love it! (was originally a Skunk2 gear knob fitted but I swapped it out for this to carry on the Mugen theme)
2 seater JDM rear bench with the odd cut out in the centre.....
And my trusty Honda Asimo co-pilot which comes with me into every Honda I own! :mrgreen:
So there you have it, the story so far! I’m very happy with how the car is looking so far, but I still have plans to improve it so keep watching this space!
Following shortly will be my recent visit to Area / DRM Motorsport for my fast road set up and fitting of the Tegiwa steering arm relocation bracket and Tanabe H brace, and I’ll be fitting the EDFC unit to the car with some pics to show too.
Thanks for looking and any comments welcome!
Cheers,
Az
I’ve owned my JDM EP3 for nearly 3 months now, it’s my second EP3 with a NHB 30AE being my first about a year and a half ago. But I’m no stranger to Honda’s, with this particular EP3 being my 11th Honda!
I bought the car off of Nathan (Nat-01) on here back in September, :bigthumb: I travelled a round trip of 500 miles to collect it and bring it home, which was well worth it! Before Nathan bought the car it was owned by another forum member – b2uce, he bought the car when it was first imported by Torque-GT, so it’s been enthusiast owned since being in the UK.
Quick overview of the car:-
2001 (51) JDM EP3 Civic Type R
C Pack which consists of:-
- Bi-xenon HID headlights
- Electric folding mirrors
- Rear privacy glass
- Automatic climate control
- Outside temperature sensor
- Keyless entry
Mod list to date:-
EXTERIOR-
As Honda intended at the moment (unsure if that will change)
INTERIOR-
Mugen gear knob
Red alcantara gearshift boot and handbrake gaiter
JDM original red Type R mats
JDM flare (still live)
Sony Xplod headunit
Tein EDFC control unit
ENGINE-
Mugen airbox
Mugen twin loop cat back exhaust system
Mugen rad cap
Facelift engine bay front wing trims
TRANSNISSION-
Powerflex gearbox mount insert
Tegiwa aluminium shifter bushes
CHASSIS-
Tein Superstreet coilovers with adjustable pillow ball top mounts and EDFC control
Tanabe under car H brace
D2 rear lower control arms
Eibach / SPC rear camber arms
Superpro bushes throughout with caster increase
Tegiwa steering arm relocation bracket
Area / DRM Motorsport fast road set up
BRAKES-
Stop-tech grooved discs
Ferodo DS2500 pads
Mugen braided and rubber coated brake hoses
Premier Edition Type R embossed calipers
WHEELS / TYRES-
Standard Championship White alloys
Yokohama Parada Spec 2 tyres
When I bought the car off of Nathan it was in very good condition for an import, I am a perfectionist though so I did pick up on a few blemishes when I went to view it, a couple which Nathan was very honest about which I appreciated. They were a quite badly chipped front bumper which had unfortunately been pretty badly touched up in which didn’t look like championship white paint. The rear bumper had an odd mark on it which wouldn’t polish out, and the drivers front wing had obviously been resprayed at some point and it wasn’t a good colour match. Fortunately for me I have a mate who owns a bodyshop so on my way home I rang him and arranged for it to be taken into his bodyshop the very next day to get these imperfections sorted! I waste no time!!
Since buying it I’ve been taking plenty of photos of the car as I do work on it to create this ‘build’ thread.
To start things off I always go a bit mad on detailing a car when I first buy it, this way it makes the car feel more like ‘my car’. But what really prompted me to get stuck in to the detailing of this car was when I got the car up on axle stands to change the current suspension that was on it. There was nothing wrong with the suspension that was on it, in fact it was virtually brand new and cost Nathan £900. I had a Bilstein B12 shock and spring suspension set up which was fine, but 2 things bugged me about it, 1- the front of the car sat higher than the rear (which really bugs me!) and 2-it was a surprisingly firm ride for just shocks and springs. So, I sold the Bilsteins to another forum member and mate of mine alexunderwood :bigthumb: and bought a set of Tein Superstreet coilovers with EDFC control from forum member zetec-s :bigthumb: This way I could obviously set the height of *** car how I wanted and also adjust the damper setting for how hard or soft I want it all at the touch of a button inside the car! Happy days! Killing 2 birds with 1 stone me thinks.
So this is how the car sat feeling sorry for itself for 5 weeks whilst I replaced the suspension, and took advantage of it being on axle stands to fit new front antiroll bar drop links, tidy up the brake calipers and discs/hubs, thoroughly clean, polish and wax the wheels, de-grease and detail the engine bay, and give the whole car a good detail to bring it back to its former glory.
To start it was out with the old (well they weren’t exactly old!) big thanks to SeanEP3 for lending a hand to remove it all and for loaning me his far superior tools compared to mine! :bigthumb:
And in with the new (well they aren’t exactly new!)
And fitted!
Whilst removing the Bilsteins we noticed that my front anti-roll bar drop links were shagged to say the least, which explained the slight knocking I had.....
So I ordered some new drop links and got them fitted at the same time as fitting the Teins to kill 2 birds with 1 stone. Here is a pic with the new front antiroll bar drop links fitted, much better! And cured the knocking!
So whilst the wheels were removed and the car was sitting on axle stands I took advantage and gave the wheels a thorough clean as they were covered inside and most of the outside with baked on brake dust which looked awful and really let the car down in my opinion. Now 2 years ago I wouldn’t of hesitated and I would of got them refurbished, but these days with a family to feed I don’t often have £200+ to shell out on getting them done, so I resulted in good old elbow grease! A long process that wasn’t 100% worth the time or effort if I’m honest but they are a hell of a lot better than what they were when I bought the car.
The state the wheels were in....
I don’t normally like using Wonder Wheels as I know its harsh stuff and pretty much neat acid, but I needed something harsh to get the baked on brake dust off, so took the plunge and bought some to start the wheel cleaning off.
Here you can see an obvious line where I cleaned a section of the inside of the wheel with Wonder wheels
Another irritating bit on the wheels was the sticky crap that was left on the inside of the wheels from old weights....
After some vigorous determination they were removed from all wheels to a must cleaner look......
.
Once all the wheels were cleaned with Wonder Wheels it was clear to see what areas needed more attention, this was mostly in-between the spokes and the inside of the wheel, so I went over all of the wheels with some Auto Glym Intensive Tar Remover which surprisingly cut through more of the stubborn areas that the Wonder Wheels didn’t seem to touch.
Once these areas were tackled I then gave all of the wheels including the inside of the wheels a coat of T-Cut, I used this to basically ‘clean’ the paint on the wheels.
The cleaning continued through a further 2 stages of Meguiars, which consisted of a polish, and finally to finish them off a camauba wax. And here is a finished product!....... (complete with a trial of red wheel nuts to see how they’d look)
Once the wheels were all clean and out of the way I cracked on with refurbishing the brake calipers and discs as they looked awful. It looked like someone had painted the calipers red, which is fine but they were badly done, and then had painted the ‘Type R’ embossed logo white, but again that was done badly and looked like it was done with tipex! Here is how they looked......
Now when I say they were done badly this is just one of the points that irritates me and makes it obvious to me that it was all a rush job. The metal anti-squeal clips were all painted which shows that the calipers weren’t removed from the hubs when they were done. Pretty lazy if you ask me as it only takes 5 minutes to remove each caliper! Just like the wheels all the clips had baked on brake dust (I know that’s obviously to be expected!)
So out came the Wonder wheels again and I soaked them in a bowl of the stuff over night to work its magic.....
The next bit was to get rid of all the red paint, unfortunately for me I didn’t have any paint thinners, so had the tedious process of removing it with sand paper! But patients paid off and they came out looking like new!
I re-painted the calipers and brake discs (the hub part) with Hammerite Direct to Rust paint. I’ve used this on several previous cars and it seems pretty good stuff, a lot cheaper than say Folia Tec calliper paint and it covers well only needing a couple of coats, seems very durable too.
The finished product......
Whilst all the wheels were off I had easy access to take the opportunity to take some photos of the many purple Superpro bushes that are throughout the chassis! :twisted:
D2 rear lower control arms
Eibach / SPC rear camber arms
Now with the wheels, brakes, and suspension sorted it was time to crack on with the detailing! I started of with de-greasing and cleaning the engine bay. If I’m going to have a clean and well looked after car on the outside then I want it to be clean and well looked after everywhere else, even in the areas that aren’t seen very often! So armed with a bottle of Auto Glym Engine and machine cleaner and a hard bristled detailing brush I started to clean that dirty engine bay and surrounding areas such as under bonnet etc.
Here are a few pics of how dirty the engine bay was....
Under the airbox, showing the dirt and Powerflex gearbox mount insert
The under bonnet after a clean with the engine and machine cleaner......
In order to get to the bodywork underneath and alongside the airbox I had to remove it. For anyone who has not seen the Mugen airbox dismantled here it is......
Pretty huge air filter!
And the bottom half of the airbox with the filter removed. Surprisingly smooth inside with no channelling fins like the OEM airbox
Tegiwa aluminium shifter bushes which are obviously located under the airbox and on top of the gearbox.....
Once I had finished the engine bay I moved onto other areas of the car which were a bit grubby. I noticed the inside of the bootlid and it’s hinges were pretty dirty so again used the Auto Glym engine and machine cleaner to de-grease / clean the area. A recommendation to anyone who uses this particular cleaning product on bodywork, it’s safe to use on it but it will need to be rinsed off BEFORE it dries! This will prevent any hard to remove streaks that will be left. If you don’t manage to rinse it off quick enough then a simple wash down and polish will bring the bodywork back up to a non streak finish.
The bootlid area before cleaning-
And once cleaned......
Whilst working on the bootlid I noticed that the rear licence plate bulb holders were brown with years of road grime and were preventing a bright light to light up the rear number plate. They are plastic bulb holders so I removed them to give them a clean and a polish. Here is how they looked when I removed them from the bootlid-
Here is a pic of one which was cleaned and then polished using T-cut (on the right obviously) the one on the left being a non cleaned.
And both cleaned and T-cutted.......
Whilst the bulb holders were out I took the opportunity to replace the dull normal 501 wedge bulbs for some white SMD LED bulbs.
Keeping it JDM y0! :mrgreen:
The difference that cleaning / T-cutting the bulb holders did as well as fitting the SMD LED bulbs was pretty awesome!.......
One thing that really bothered me and something that I have always thought is very un-honda like is the pre-facelift engine bay where the front wings bolt onto the car. As you can see from these pictures it looks very un-finished in my opinion-
....something the facelift models don’t suffer with as they have these black plastic trims that slot into place to make everything look neat and tidy and most importantly, - finished! Thanks to forum member CTR_lee for these! :bigthumb:
Much better!!
Another bulb I decided to change was the front side light bulbs, I had crappy single dim white LED bulbs in there when I bought the car. I’m not 100% about LED side light bulbs as I think they can look a bit chivvy, so instead of resorting back to boring standard bulbs I thought I’d go for a USDM style amber sidelight to be a bit different. I bought some Silvertec amber bulbs to keep a clean look on the headlights during the day, but obviously light up amber when switched on.
The crappy LED side light bulbs that were fitted when I bought the car-
With the Silvertec amber bulbs fitted, but with a clean silver look during the day- (the headlights were hazy and dull when I first bought the car, but its amazing how a couple of coated of T-cut can bring them up like new!)
With them switched on-
And a night shot with the xenons switched on as well-
Now with all the fiddly bits out of the way it was time to get cracking with the bodywork! The bodywork was in pretty good nick when I bought the car but I like to give any new car (new to me) a thorough polish and wax so I know its protected. So out came the cleaning box again and the whole car got the full meguiars treatment! But before the polishing started I went around the whole car with some Auto Glym Intensive Tar remover to get rid of any tough baked on road grime and tar. Once that bit was out of the way the meguiars stage 1 polish was applied, which is basically a paint cleaner / de-oxidiser, then a stage 2 polish which is your general deep shine polish, then a final coat of the stage 3 camauba wax.
And here is the final outcome!........
Some reflection shots for you, both sides and bonnet reflection....
Freshly painted calipers and hubs make a big difference....
Its all about that JDM badge of Great Britian!
Mugen Power!
Some JDM stickers for your ass!
Some more engine bay pics and under bonnet clean-ness......
And finally here are some interior pics. Unfortunately I didn’t take any pics of the interior when I first bought it, completely forgot and got cleaning it straight away before I realised I hadn’t taken any ‘before’ pics. It was all in good condition, no horrible marks on the seats or mats, just needed a pretty good clean, so got out the Auto Glym interior shampoo which is awesome stuff and brought the seats up like new! Could do with a very mild clean again but here are some pics of it currently.....
Mugen gear knob, odd looking thing but I love it! (was originally a Skunk2 gear knob fitted but I swapped it out for this to carry on the Mugen theme)
2 seater JDM rear bench with the odd cut out in the centre.....
And my trusty Honda Asimo co-pilot which comes with me into every Honda I own! :mrgreen:
So there you have it, the story so far! I’m very happy with how the car is looking so far, but I still have plans to improve it so keep watching this space!
Following shortly will be my recent visit to Area / DRM Motorsport for my fast road set up and fitting of the Tegiwa steering arm relocation bracket and Tanabe H brace, and I’ll be fitting the EDFC unit to the car with some pics to show too.
Thanks for looking and any comments welcome!
Cheers,
Az