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Back in an ep3 K24 Frank! I’m in love.

I did think about fn2 seats. They are lovely. Apparently they weigh a ton though.

On another note, the power drop has resurfaced. It’s like a totally loss of power engine completely dies then as soon as the clutch is pressed its back to life. Changing the plugs stopped it for a day or two but it happened again last night. It’s very intermittent. Anyone have any ideas. Just been serviced but I didn’t do the fuel filter as it looks a pig of a job.
 
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ATR seats are the same as Premier as far as I know so they are also a good option, but the colour they come in is a bit of a hit and miss for most people. (the military green and black doesn't do it for me).

Found a mint FN2 pair for £200, just trying to figure out how they would fit before I commit to buying them.
 
bullys_special said:
Not sure but I don’t think it’s necessarily clutch related seems to happen at 7-8.5k on the revs quick loss of power then back on. I’m guessing it’s fuel related?
Click to expand...

Ah right, I was thinking if it recovers with a push of the clutch you might have some full throttle shifting setup which need a clutch switch that might be playing up. Clearly not!
As you have the KPro4 you should be able to do data logging, and use the Hondata phone app to connect via Bluetooth. Would be a good idea to read for any fault codes and see if any obvious parameter\sensor change when it misbehaves.
Yeah filter is a pain as it's a pump out of tank job but it's more time consuming than complicated, this is how for anyone not aware: https://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?95063-How-to-replace-a-ep3-fuel-filter
If it's due a filter then you really should get it done :)
 
SmegHead said:
The further random though occurs that you may have some overly aggressive protection parameters setup on your KPro, read about them here: https://www.hondata.com/help/kmanager/index.html?protectionparameters.htm
Click to expand...

Some great info there bud thanks, I’m yet to get hold of a laptop so I can’t change anything in kpro yet, although I’d be nervous to go near it to be fair. It’s a weird one as it’s very few and far between the plugs and redex seem to have really helped no fault codes on the kpro at all.
 
i would be looking at getting it into the company that did the swap and map or another reputable mapper to look over things
 
Jimbo's advice is sound, though I'd still change that filter, also what fuel are you putting in it and how much is in the tank when it misbehaves? Basic stuff but you never know and worth ruling out...
If you do connect it to a laptop it is likely you can't change anything anyway as tuners usually lock their maps. If so DO NOT select to clear the security as I think that wipes the map off completely = dead car.

Sometimes I hate seeing K24 conversions as makes me want to spend more money on mine :( That's some torque from a NA engine.
A closed desk K24 with twin screw 'charger would be somewhat epic though.....
 
You’re a bad influence sir! I will not be charging it... ever... definitely... probably. There’s just something about that instant buzz saw power this thing has, I also adore how obnoxiously loud it is. I’d fear forced induction could potentially change it for the worse. It’s fairly rapid as is and like you say the torque is brilliant for n/a eurospec said they could easily have pulled another 10-15 horses but at the detriment of the torque. For now it’s perfect as it is. The company that did the swap are half hour away from me but they didn’t do the current map, that was done by Romain at eurospec which is a trek.
 
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SmegHead said:
Jimbo's advice is sound, though I'd still change that filter, also what fuel are you putting in it and how much is in the tank when it misbehaves? Basic stuff but you never know and worth ruling out...
If you do connect it to a laptop it is likely you can't change anything anyway as tuners usually lock their maps. If so DO NOT select to clear the security as I think that wipes the map off completely = dead car.

Sometimes I hate seeing K24 conversions as makes me want to spend more money on mine :( That's some torque from a NA engine.
A closed desk K24 with twin screw 'charger would be somewhat epic though.....
Click to expand...

I’m trying to only use shell premium but I’ve used tesco and bp ultimate too.
 
bullys_special said:
Not sure but I don’t think it’s necessarily clutch related seems to happen at 7-8.5k on the revs quick loss of power then back on. I’m guessing it’s fuel related?
Click to expand...

The K24 if stock bottom end should definitely not be revved to 8.5k due to the longer stroke. Most limit to 7.2-7.4k for a frank unless forged.

Worth finding out what's in the bottom end and putting the correct redline in for the pistons / rods to be safe mate. If it's indeed forged then you can continue going about trying to resolve the issue. If it's stock I'd chuck a 7kish limit and call it a day :)
 
musegroove said:
The K24 if stock bottom end should definitely not be revved to 8.5k due to the longer stroke. Most limit to 7.2-7.4k for a frank unless forged.

Worth finding out what's in the bottom end and putting the correct redline in for the pistons / rods to be safe mate. If it's indeed forged then you can continue going about trying to resolve the issue. If it's stock I'd chuck a 7kish limit and call it a day :)
Click to expand...

How easy is it to check if the internals are forged? I had read that the rev limit was lower on the Franks as you said, it’s not reoccurred now for the last 3 days and I’ve wrung it’s neck several times. If anything the plugs and redex seem to have increased the pops and burbles and it’s singing like never before now. Fingers crossed checked the rev limit and looks to be set at 7.4k
 
Anyone help me with the seat? I’m assuming I need aftermarket rails? Will I need to get welding done? It’s a bride Gias low max I’ve bought.
 
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