• Registered users are encouraged to enable MFA/2FA to add an aditional layer of security to their account. More information can be found here: https://www.ncsc.gov.uk/collection/top-tips-for-staying-secure-online/activate-2-step-verification-on-your-email

Back in an ep3 K24 Frank! I’m in love.

Chris. said:
I have my doubts over Eurospec mapping ability.
Click to expand...

Being in Edinburgh I’m limited to choice, I wouldn’t attempt a drive to tdi with the car like it is. SOS were recommended and they have a great rep, the guy there was brilliant he spent over 2 hours with it on the rollers and charged me way less than I was expecting, but as the symptom didn’t show and no errors were present he wasn’t able diagnose or fix it. He did say as others have mentioned that the rpm limit was higher than he would normally set but as the car had been running this long (2-3 years) it was probably ok to leave it, although he also said the engine was still pulling power at the limit, and a set of rods would mean I could raise the limit. I just want the car to stop this phantom fuel cut or whatever it is
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well that tells you everything.

If coming to England then EFI in Runcorn would be my choice.
 
To be honest it needs to be fixed locally as taking a long drive is asking for trouble. I’m going to take it back to sos and hope the fault shows itself this time.
 
Use your KPRO and do some data logging. Might help point you in the right direction.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Disabling the knock sensor is horrific :( I can only imagine the issues that could result from that.
 
mike.h said:
Disabling the knock sensor is horrific :( I can only imagine the issues that could result from that.
Click to expand...

I was more than a bit annoyed to hear that, guy said it was knocking fairly badly too. He managed to iron it out but today it’s driving worse than ever wouldn’t go above 2k for a while then it would, but still jerking regularly. Has to have been eurospec who disabled the knock sensor.

Once I’ve data logged could anyone one here look at it as it’s basically hieroglyphics to me..
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Sounding more and more like a dodgy TPS to me. What's it got fitted? Try calibrating it, but I'd be looking at throttle trace on logs.
Check there's nothing funny going on with the cable too.
 
SmegHead said:
Sounding more and more like a dodgy TPS to me. What's it got fitted? Try calibrating it, but I'd be looking at throttle trace on logs.
Check there's nothing funny going on with the cable too.
Click to expand...

Excuse my ignorance but I’m not sure what that means. I’m assuming a TPS isn’t a tyre pressure sensor?
 
Correct, throttle pos sensor. It bolts to the throttle body and tells the car, well, clues in the name :p

The originals use an electrical track/wiper setup and eventually wear out can cause major issues around 2k but have been known to be problematic at other revs. You also need to calibrate it so the closed and WOT positions to give correct voltage readout. As you have a different throttle body installed the TPS WILL have been disturbed, and should have been adjusted correctly.
It may not be this but as said worth checking the calibration, and if the car plays up whilst you're logging throttle position then it'll be obvious if it's a contributing factor.

If needed you can replace it with a more modern hall-effect based sensor. No moving parts touch, & they're more accurate.
 
Thanks for the advice and seems very possible. Not much point in taking it off till I have a new one I suppose? Where would I find a the more modern one? Looking at it I’m assuming the throttle body needs to come off to take the tps off?

Also it looks like I have a plug that’s not connected to anything hanging next to the TPS?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
This just makes no sense to me at all. As I said this morning it felt like it was in limp mode, complete cut at 2k. I unplugged the two plugs on my throttle body/TPS plugged em back in went for a drive and not one single hesitation? Wtf?
 
Damaged wire, corroded or highly capacitive connector, water got into it, your wiggling it around cause something with a dodgy connection to line up, or make contact, or... etc.

Looks like you;ve found something to look into though :)

Given the amount spent on the car I'd strongly suggest shelling out a small amount for a cheap or second-hand laptop too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top