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Back in an ep3 K24 Frank! I’m in love.

Just back from another blast and it’s not missing a beat! Surely something to do with me unplugging the throttle body. I’m a big believer in if it ain’t broke logic but what do you folks suggest I do to stop it happening again? Replace the plugs? TPS? Both?
 
Get a semi-decent silicone grease and apply it to the connector to prevent water getting in. Short term this may be fine, longer term you might want to replace the TPS.
 
Ok I’ll do that tomorrow, I meant to ask if anyone can give me advice on what the tuner said about the engine wanting to rev higher but being limited by the rods, he reckons the expensive bits done with the Brian crower stage 2 cams and that if I replaced the rods or even just the rod bolts I could get more power and a higher redline which I must admit does appeal...
 
Don't go higher revs.

The K24 (99mm stroke) at 7800rpm has the same piston speed of a K20 (86mm stroke) at 9000rpm, trying to push it to the same redline as the K20 will be a VERY expensive path.

First make sure your engine actually works sanely, that the sensors you have are enabled and working, that it's not knocking. Then consider what you already have, a pre-tuned, higher torque mental engine.

If you want more beyond that then prepare to spend large piles of money in very large chunks.
 
I could t agree more to be honest. you’re like that mate that says ‘you don’t need to jump into that river, just chill and finish your beer’ it is plenty fast enough as is and I want to keep it for a long time so I’m going to concentrate on making it reliable. I ran the kpro app whilst driving today and it didn’t count a single knock which must be good.
 
bullys_special said:
Also it looks like I have a plug that’s not connected to anything hanging next to the TPS?
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A picture of this would be helpful.

Assuming those two connectors you reseated were on top of the throttle body, neither are the TPS. That's on the front of the TB. The two on top are the purge valve and MAP sensor, if the latter was getting a bad connection it would cause exactly your most recent fault.

It would be a good idea to rescan for any fault codes too.

EDIT: Just remembered you have aftermarket throttle, so probably no purge valve and likely the MAP & TPS were the ones you did. The loose connector if probably for the old purge valve which you wont probably don't have anymore.
If I were you I'd thoroughly check the connectors for damaged/corroded pins, and any signs of damage to the wiring related to them. Also check that all sensor fastenings are tight.
 
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Little update, I think I’ve found the gremlin. Tracing the plugs back to the one which plugs into my intake hose, before the map sensor I found that at the connector was a small piece of exposed cable I cut it and reattached it properly looks like it was touching the battery brace and causing the hesitation. Would make sense that the car was fine on the dyno as it wasn’t being subjected to the bumps on the road. Relieved to say the least. Thanks again for all the comments and the help gents.
 
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SmegHead said:
Well found and fingers crossed then! :smt041
Click to expand...

As a very amateur curb side mechanic I was elated to say the least, I’d be surprised if this wasn’t the culprit as it ties up with everything that’s been happening. If not I’ll swallow my pride and admit though!
 
Do you mean the intake temp sensor? That cable runs very close to the battery tie and the cable bends almost back on itself.
 
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