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Bought an oil pump on Ebay, looks really bad

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30
Is this acceptable for an oil pump? It was advertised as being taken off a 70k mile engine.










I looked at my pump, looks much better and it has 110k miles






What do you guys think? I have no adress to return to, don`t even know the real name of the seller. No invoice, no sender names on the parcel no nothing. He thinks he can evade Ebay and Paypal with these childish gimmicks? The bolts on the pump were just fingertight. It was opened but not torqued back to specs.


And one final question: my original pump has is sending oil through that small hole to lubricate the balance shaft journals. That oil flows back into the pump through the block where indicated on the pic. If I use the K20A2 pump, which doesnt send anything through the small hole, do I still need to plug the outlet on the block? Is that the hole everyone talks about plugging? If it really needs to be plugged, what can I use?

 
Id never buy a used oil pump. Questionable servicing and maintenance. Possibly from a car with engine failure and could have all sorts of sediment/bearing/piston material lying in it.
 
Regards the hole, yes you need to plug it or you won't have any oil pressure.

On the FN2 when using the FD2 oil pump you use a self sealing 10mm bolt, Honda part #90004-PE2-005
 
Id never buy a used oil pump. Questionable servicing and maintenance. Possibly from a car with engine failure and could have all sorts of sediment/bearing/piston material lying in it.
I know...but just want to test how the engine feels like and revs without the balancing shaft pump. If all good, will buy a brand new one. Not sure where that foreign engine failure material would reside anyway, thres literally ****all inside a pump, 2 compressor gears and thats it. Will clean it anyway so not worried. I open and clean everything ever since bought a torque wrench, I know it goes back to same specs when done admiring what makes it chooch.

Regards the hole, yes you need to plug it or you won't have any oil pressure.

On the FN2 when using the FD2 oil pump you use a self sealing 10mm bolt, Honda part #90004-PE2-005
Just when I already hated the idea of looking for exact part numbers, as everyone and their dog talks about pluging the hole, but no one mentions the part number. Big thanks bruv, you saved me hours of endless searching.


PS
Is there any way to use the A3`s 17 teeth chain sprocket on the A2 pump (21 teeth). I know 21 is better at high rpms to prevent cavitation, but I only want a lightweight pump instead with best flow at existing rpm range.
 
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PS
Is there any way to use the A3`s 17 teeth chain sprocket on the A2 pump (21 teeth). I know 21 is better at high rpms to prevent cavitation, but I only want a lightweight pump instead with best flow at existing rpm range.

I'd stick with the 21 teeth on the A2 pump. You've got to think about oil pressure at tickover too. If you stick a smaller sprocket on there, you'll be raising the pressure at tickover which isn't ideal in my head.

How do you go on with the A3 oil chain, tensioner and guide? Do they work with the A2 pump?
 
I'd stick with the 21 teeth on the A2 pump. You've got to think about oil pressure at tickover too. If you stick a smaller sprocket on there, you'll be raising the pressure at tickover which isn't ideal in my head.

How do you go on with the A3 oil chain, tensioner and guide? Do they work with the A2 pump?

Bigger oil pressure is what im after. After all, the thing that started this, was no oil getting to the camshafts. Oil level at full mark on dipstick and then some more. Oil pump came out clean as a whistle. Just then I saw hw massive it is compared to A2.
Pump chain is longer on A2 by a link or 2. Definately cannot use A3 chain on A2 pump. Viceversa might work, but tensioner might get the opposing sides too close to eachother. Tensioners are exactly the same. Not sure about the fixed guide, but if i had to guess, it will be shorter than A3, to leave room for the chain to engage thr guide at a decent angle, as the A2 gear is much bigger, and if left with A3 guide, the chain would make a steep angle beteen guide and gear and would chew the guide off. That said i only have the A2 chain and tensioner. If I can get the guide by Sat when the pump goes in, fine. If not, will gamble a bit.
 
K you got me convinced, will not install it. Rather put my one back, just want the car running at this point.

Million $ question: how do I time the balance shaft pump with the engine? Because it needs to be timed, and I didnt mark anything when I took it off...
 
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